KAD 42/43/44/300 Oil pressure relief valve seat removal in filter/cooler assembly

BruceK

BruceK

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Has anybody removed the seat, part 2, in this assembly. It's a tight fit and I am not sure I wont damage it trying to get it out and failing to do so. If so what is the procedure for removal.

Port engine is currently running at 40 (kPa?) at cruise and 30 at idle where as stbd is 10 higher on both accounts. I thought I'd start off with replacing the oil pressure relief valves in case they were worn, or at least the cheapest and easiest fix first.

11446.jpg
 
Have you swapped the pressure sender between engines.

also check the ve- on the gauge. One of mine read 10 under and it was a poor ve-. Picked up a different ve- for the gauge and it was fine.

that was after checking the actual oil pressure with a test kit to make sure I didn’t have a problem

ive got a new pressure gauge sender if you need one....mates rates of course (I.e. double ?)

mine run at 60-65psi on start up and when warm and under load.....30 psi warm idle.
 
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After all your wind up boating shots I wouldn't trust you to not only to charge me double at mates rates but also to send me your old duff one. So how about you send it to me first and if it cures the problem then I will return by post a mates rate?
 
I've swapped senders and same readings. May be electrical or guage, but like I said I started with the cheapest parts. The valves are pennies and a bit of grunt work. Your pressure guage is out of stock but I have one on order. This is the cooler assembly that gave me issues a couple years ago and was a CR replacement with unknown provenance. My natural disposition is to believe that this was the cause of the demise of the engine it was pirated from and should be viewed with utmost suspicion as everything else mechanical from them has expired or cost me more money
 
bump. Anybody?

guesses, postulations, diatribes and Porto'esque sermons accepted. It's got to all go back together soon and the opportunity will be lost till next season's strip down. Gauges, wiring etc can all be tackled after the fact.
 
julians said:
It'll be due to one of the following; its either because the deadrise of your hull is too shallow, your EGT's are too high ,or the most likely explanation, your boat is not an Itama.
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There’s no moss on you .....advance to the front of the class a quick learner , that boy will do well . :) :)

@ Bruce ...sorry to hear yet another VP woe , hopefully it will be sorted .

I did have a Fr VP Guy ( many years ago now ) tell me the looms resistance changes with age .
As mention before I had a high ish jacket temp 94 or over ( can not remember exactly) .
Infra red thermo of the thermostat said 84 or what ever .Motor ran uneventfully.
1- changes sender = nope
2 - changed gauge ( after brushing off ver d gris ) = nope .
3 - swopped the umbilical cord , that massive multi pin thing at the back of the black box next to the strainer = bingo the problem moved to the other side .
Diagnosis was the loom ..........and few € later labour / parts etc .

Was the final ( and I ran out space on the lid :) ) nail n the whole VP coffin .

Anecdotally I have noticed Italian builders tend not to spec Volvo .
Sure there’s the odd one but it’s the other way round to the N European and French ......just a observation.
 
It's not a woe just yet Porto. It may have nothing at all to do with the relief valves, but as the engine has been stripped to the short block again so I could access the transom, this time to replace steering helmet bushes, and the fact that the valve assemblies are something like 13 quid I thought I'd change them in case because the assembly gets buried under the heat exchanger and supercharger once reassembled. At 13 quid it's a no brainer to replace, except that seat feels like it's been knocked in with a bearing drift and I dont want to damage it in a failed attempt to remove it.
 
Thanks VP. I suspected it might be something of that nature but I've had a rather expensive record in just going for it rather than asking first.
 
BruceK said:
Has anybody removed the seat, part 2, in this assembly. It's a tight fit and I am not sure I wont damage it trying to get it out and failing to do so. If so what is the procedure for removal.

Port engine is currently running at 40 (kPa?) at cruise and 30 at idle where as stbd is 10 higher on both accounts. I thought I'd start off with replacing the oil pressure relief valves in case they were worn, or at least the cheapest and easiest fix first.

11446.jpg
Click to expand...
Did you ever get an answer to this?
I’ve just swapped out the whole unit.
 
I had low oil pressure on one engine so removed the nut and spring and put a small washer between spring end and nut to stiffen it up. I don't see any need to remove the seat unless this bodge fails to correct the problem.
Worked a treat. Did it years ago on a Morris Minor.
 
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Montemar said:
I had low oil pressure on one engine so removed the nut and spring and put a small washer between spring end and nut to stiffen it up. I don't see any need to remove the seat unless this bodge fails to correct the problem.
Worked a treat. Did it years ago on a Morris Minor.
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Interesting indeed. I have now got two of these oil pressure control blocks on the bench, one with brand new springs & pistons. I intend to measure the length of the used and new springs to see if there is any difference. The only other issue I can imagine is that one set of springs (or indeed just one spring) has lost some of its compression strength, thereby making it easier to compress, this would indeed explain how your fix had a positive influence on the oil pressure.
 
I think the oil pressures may be different between the two valves so the springs may have different stiffnesses. I did it with the engine in the boat and a selection of washers of different thicknesses. It is not easy to get the nut back working in a confined space and against the spring however most gratifying to see the restoration of normal pressure.:)
 
Montemar said:
I think the oil pressures may be different between the two valves so the springs may have different stiffnesses. I did it with the engine in the boat and a selection of washers of different thicknesses. It is not easy to get the nut back working in a confined space and against the spring however most gratifying to see the restoration of normal pressure.:)
Click to expand...
The two springs are the same part number and therefore, I assume, interchangeable. It must have been a real difficult job to shim the springs with the engine in the boat, I had to remove header tank, heater exchanger, supercharger, oil cooler etc etc and then the unit itself, before removing the control bock and dismantling it.
 
So, here is my assessment of it:

Valve springs from oil control valve block. The one on the left is from the engine oil pressure reduction valve, the one on the right is from the piston cooling valve, the one on the middle is an unused one. They should obviously be the same length. I’m thinking that the oil pressure reduction valve would have been opening at a lower than designed pressure due to the reduction in the compressive strength of the spring, thereby resulting in a lower engine oil pressure.
 

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