Bigplumbs
Well-Known Member
What are the main things to look out for when sea trialing a boat with a KAD 32 in it. I will have a Marine Engineer on the trial but I want to be aware myself as well
Dennis
Dennis
KAD 32
- Thread starter Bigplumbs
- Start date
[2068]
...
Outdrive Trim should go up and down steadily throughout the full range.
No rainbow cloud of hydraulic fluid in the water around the boat.
It should start easily - a little smoke on startup is normal.
If the boat next door disappears, that's not normal.
Forward / reverse gears should engage without a massive amount of effort or delay.
Steering should be smooth - consistent effort actoss full turn left and right.
Engine should come up to temperature within a few minutes.
Supercharger should engage at around 1500rpm, disengages at 2600rpm, by which time the turbo takes over.
It should smoothly get onto the plane.
Max rpm flat out 3700-3900.
Temperature should be stable at approx 85'C.
Shouldn't be any vibration or knocking from the outdrive.
Outdrive should stay where you trimmed it to and not drop down on it’s own.
No funny squealing or squeaking noises from belts or tensioners.
No oil/water/coolant leaks from anything after your sea trial.
Hope it goes well
.
No rainbow cloud of hydraulic fluid in the water around the boat.
It should start easily - a little smoke on startup is normal.
If the boat next door disappears, that's not normal.
Forward / reverse gears should engage without a massive amount of effort or delay.
Steering should be smooth - consistent effort actoss full turn left and right.
Engine should come up to temperature within a few minutes.
Supercharger should engage at around 1500rpm, disengages at 2600rpm, by which time the turbo takes over.
It should smoothly get onto the plane.
Max rpm flat out 3700-3900.
Temperature should be stable at approx 85'C.
Shouldn't be any vibration or knocking from the outdrive.
Outdrive should stay where you trimmed it to and not drop down on it’s own.
No funny squealing or squeaking noises from belts or tensioners.
No oil/water/coolant leaks from anything after your sea trial.
Hope it goes well
.
Last edited:
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Outdrive Trim should go up and down steadily throughout the full range.
No rainbow cloud of hydraulic fluid in the water around the boat.
It should start easily - a little smoke on startup is normal.
If the boat next door disappears, that's not normal.
Forward / reverse gears should engage without a massive amount of effort or delay.
Steering should be smooth - consistent effort actoss full turn left and right.
Engine should come up to temperature within a few minutes.
Supercharger should engage at around 1500rpm, disengages at 2600rpm, by which time the turbo takes over.
It should smoothly get onto the plane.
Max rpm flat out 3700-3900.
Temperature should be stable at approx 85'C.
Shouldn't be any vibration or knocking from the outdrive.
Outdrive should stay where you trimmed it to and not drop down on it’s own.
No funny squealing or squeaking noises from belts or tensioners.
No oil/water/coolant leaks from anything after your sea trial.
Hope it goes well
.
Your wasted in IT David , come and work for me.
Scubadoo
Well-Known Member
Outdrive Trim should go up and down steadily throughout the full range.
No rainbow cloud of hydraulic fluid in the water around the boat.
It should start easily - a little smoke on startup is normal.
If the boat next door disappears, that's not normal.
Forward / reverse gears should engage without a massive amount of effort or delay.
Steering should be smooth - consistent effort actoss full turn left and right.
Engine should come up to temperature within a few minutes.
Supercharger should engage at around 1500rpm, disengages at 2600rpm, by which time the turbo takes over.
It should smoothly get onto the plane.
Max rpm flat out 3700-3900.
Temperature should be stable at approx 85'C.
Shouldn't be any vibration or knocking from the outdrive.
Outdrive should stay where you trimmed it to and not drop down on it’s own.
No funny squealing or squeaking noises from belts or tensioners.
No oil/water/coolant leaks from anything after your sea trial.
Hope it goes well
.
I think you need to quantify the bit where you state engine temp within a few minutes, surely that will all depend on the environment ie. Cold winter even at planning may take a while to reach normal temperature. Sitting at the berth will take more than few minutes to reach temperature at idle and so on.
[2068]
...
aquatom
Well-Known Member
Bring the revs up slowly under load until the supercharger cuts out. The revs should remain constant, if the revs drop off and the supercharger starts to cycle on and off you could be looking at an new turbo.
Momac
Well-Known Member
........a new or repaired turbo is painful cost if unexpected but not the end of the world if a suitable budget is allowed.
Look for oil spitting out of the aftercooler on the port side of the engine. A few spots of oil may arise from slow running and is not unusual but significant oil escape indicates the turbo may be worn and allowing oil past the turbo into the aftercooler
I have just this weekend done the engine oil change on my kad32's and it is really not very difficult . Having said that I would and did call in an expert for a turbo change.
ulyden
Well-Known Member
Try to measure the boost pressure. There are curves that states the correct pressure. I have this on my computer. Air leaks are often cheaper to fix than turbochargers. Common failure is big clearence on turbine causing low boost. Turbo is extreme easy to change and to fix. But if big clearence you need new parts.
CX54WEK
Well-Known Member
Check the colour of the coolant. It should be green not rusty brown.
Also check the supercharger oil. This can be overlooked. Again it should be golden in colour not black.
The engine should start easily. Ours is there first turn of the key regardless of how long it has been sat idle.
Check for general condition of the engine and ancillaries. The raw water pump is located over the alternator so any leaks get directed at this. Check for rust.
When was it last serviced (and the drive)? Is it ready for another one?
Expect a little bit of smoke at start up but not lots. It should clear quickly. That said if the boat has been pottering around on rivers it might get a bit smoky. We know when ours is getting ready for a good long high speed run to clear itself out when it starts to get a bit smoky at river speeds.
Provided it has been well serviced and looked after they are a pretty solid and reliable engine.
The only real problem we had with ours was a tendancy to chew up impellors very quickly when the raw water intake was even very briefly blocked. (We moor on a shallow stretch of water that is prone to debris) This has been solved by fitting a Speed Seal Life which has now cured that problem. Since then we only change them at service time.
Servicing is pretty straight forward and it is when all is said and done a fairly basic engine underneath all of the bolt on bits.
Also check the supercharger oil. This can be overlooked. Again it should be golden in colour not black.
The engine should start easily. Ours is there first turn of the key regardless of how long it has been sat idle.
Check for general condition of the engine and ancillaries. The raw water pump is located over the alternator so any leaks get directed at this. Check for rust.
When was it last serviced (and the drive)? Is it ready for another one?
Expect a little bit of smoke at start up but not lots. It should clear quickly. That said if the boat has been pottering around on rivers it might get a bit smoky. We know when ours is getting ready for a good long high speed run to clear itself out when it starts to get a bit smoky at river speeds.
Provided it has been well serviced and looked after they are a pretty solid and reliable engine.
The only real problem we had with ours was a tendancy to chew up impellors very quickly when the raw water intake was even very briefly blocked. (We moor on a shallow stretch of water that is prone to debris) This has been solved by fitting a Speed Seal Life which has now cured that problem. Since then we only change them at service time.
Servicing is pretty straight forward and it is when all is said and done a fairly basic engine underneath all of the bolt on bits.
