kad 32 frost damage.....thoughts please...

STEVEDUNSTABLE

STEVEDUNSTABLE

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morining all......i have put this post on the Practical boat owner forum, with just 1 reply, SO APOLOGIES in advance if you,ve seen it already....started the engine yesterday for the first time since october and the top of the aftercooler is split !!!! squirting water all over the black electrical reset box. ..it appears (just by sitting n studying it) that it is a case of "old off new on" but im a bit dubious of a.making it worse. or b.starting something i cant finish !!............i only have about 1in of clearance above it so would that be enough to get it off the studs??.........all thoughts, advice, etc etc will be GRATEFULLY RECEIVED..........ps.yes i did winterise the whole thing but this seems to be "the bit that got away" and to be looked into later !! THANKS AGAIN TO ALL
 
I have KAD42's so similar engine. I also have limited clearance above the after cooler and removal of the cartridge means I have to remove the entire unit from the engine. Getting the lid off (i.e. clearing the studs) isn't the issue, you need sufficient room to lift out the cartridge, which is almost the depth of the after cooler casing.

Removal of the unit isn't difficult. It is held on by a couple of long bolts into the block and a small nut and bolt on the bottom, which can be awkward to get at. On mine it is also necessary to remove of the oil filter assembly from the block because one of the bolts holding the after cooler also secures the oil filter.

The pipe from the turbo that goes into the after cooler is a push fit with a rubber grommet/seal.

Overall, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming.
 
Greg2 said:
I have KAD42's so similar engine. I also have limited clearance above the after cooler and removal of the cartridge means I have to remove the entire unit from the engine. Getting the lid off (i.e. clearing the studs) isn't the issue, you need sufficient room to lift out the cartridge, which is almost the depth of the after cooler casing.

Removal of the unit isn't difficult. It is held on by a couple of long bolts into the block and a small nut and bolt on the bottom, which can be awkward to get at. On mine it is also necessary to remove of the oil filter assembly from the block because one of the bolts holding the after cooler also secures the oil filter.

The pipe from the turbo that goes into the after cooler is a push fit with a rubber grommet/seal.

Overall, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming.
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply greg.....if i take the lid off, does the cartridge come out attached to the lid or have i misread ?? ..im lucky that the oilfilter on mine is on the opposite side of the block......ps. showing my ignorence, what does the aftercooler cool ??
 
The after cooler cools the air after it has been heated by the turbo
Think bike pump gets hot same with turbo or compressor

The insert it separate from lid

It's worth looking at the parts list as post in other place
 
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scottie said:
The after cooler cools the air after it has been heated by the turbo
Think bike pump gets hot same with turbo or compressor

The insert it separate from lid

It's worth looking at the parts list as post in other place
Click to expand...

cheers scottie..... just doing some swmbo jobs , then its redhot spanners n sockets time !!!!.......i asume keyparts would be first off the block for parts prices ??
 
PaulGooch said:
What's it made of ? Can it not be welded ?
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hi paul ..im lead to belive its plastic, but, looking at the split it looks more like ally type casting......will investigate n bore you more later !!.....must get on before the next lot of -degs gets here and the spanners freeze to my hands........(i dispise the cold) !!!
 
STEVEDUNSTABLE said:
thanks for the reply greg.....if i take the lid off, does the cartridge come out attached to the lid or have i misread ?? ..im lucky that the oilfilter on mine is on the opposite side of the block......ps. showing my ignorence, what does the aftercooler cool ??
Click to expand...

The lid is separate from the cartridge and there is a rubber seal kit on the top to seal it in place. Once the lid is off the cartridge simply lifts out. The way it works is that raw water (as opposed to anti-freeze/coolant) circulates through the cartridge and air from the turbo passes through the vanes of the cartridge to be cooled before it goes into the engine. For future reference, when winterising you should drain the after cooler using the drain plug that protrudes from the bottom of the casing. The plug is actually part of the cartridge that fits through a hole in the bottom of the casing and has a rubber seal to hold in place.

This is just stuff I have picked up over time - I am no engineer but I have (with the help of a friend) removed both engines for a bit of an overhaul so I suppose an enthusiastic amateur at best!!

Where is the water leaking from exactly?
 
STEVEDUNSTABLE said:
hi greg.....scottie told me to look here..http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7738870-26-3047.aspx ( if this link has worked) its on the front edge of the lid, oposite end to where the pipes go on........sorry if it does,nt work ,as me n computors don,t get on !!!
Click to expand...

Looking at the schematic Steve, it looks as though the cover should come off easy enough. Looks as though an inch clearance would be enough.

Although, if frost damage has caused the failure, i think i'd be inclined to remove the whole unit, dismantle it and check the core for damage. Rebuild with a new cover and gasket and then refit.
 
PaulGooch said:
Looking at the schematic Steve, it looks as though the cover should come off easy enough. Looks as though an inch clearance would be enough.

Although, if frost damage has caused the failure, i think i'd be inclined to remove the whole unit, dismantle it and check the core for damage. Rebuild with a new cover and gasket and then refit.
Click to expand...

Lid may come off but doesn't sound like there is room to remove the cartridge.
I agree with Paul, the concern must be that the cartridge may be fractured as a result of freezing. If so this would allow water into the air stream on into the engine...probably not good!
 
episode 2 !!

well, have spent all this afternoon bent like a hunchback, blood dripping from knuckles,nose running like niagra falls and having lost 2 ratchet spanners to the bilge (under the sump), progress is PAINFULLY slow !!!!!!....have removed all the nut n bolts etc so all that remains to do is to pull the whole casing off....if only...the lid removal was easy but as sudjested in an earlyer post, im trying to check out the insert...the casing is all wobbley but it seems to be stuck by the "push in" turbo pipe!!....there is absolutley no access to this as its up against the transom.. even a large drink of wd40 has not helped. im at a loss asto where to go from here..is it a case of just keep wiggling or is there a secret knack to it.......any theorys ......thanks again for all the replys, i would,nt of got this far without em !!!!!...ps. Scottie you were on the money, the lid is plastic..cheques in the post !
 
I have seen 2 intercooler matrix damaged by frost and scrap, whatever you do you must pressure test the whole assembly built up as it seals in the housing by 2 seals 1 upper of the casing and 1 lower to seal the charged air, so you will need the whole assembly to test it correctly, pressure test it to find the leak, as its swelled it may have broken the plastic cover, the early one had a metal cover, these are less prone to failure.

If you dont get it right you will get sea water in the cylinders, you will hydraulic lock, then you will be looking at a new motor, if there is a slight sea water leak into the cylinders you will get piston damage over time as engines dont digest salt water very well.

Tip for next year, when you winterise indo the plug at the bottom of the cooler to drain down.
 
hi scottie...all studs are free but not removed...the stuck area is right at the back which makes me think its the turbo pipe...its all free to move except back there !
 
volvopaul said:
I have seen 2 intercooler matrix damaged by frost and scrap, whatever you do you must pressure test the whole assembly built up as it seals in the housing by 2 seals 1 upper of the casing and 1 lower to seal the charged air, so you will need the whole assembly to test it correctly, pressure test it to find the leak, as its swelled it may have broken the plastic cover, the early one had a metal cover, these are less prone to failure.

If you dont get it right you will get sea water in the cylinders, you will hydraulic lock, then you will be looking at a new motor, if there is a slight sea water leak into the cylinders you will get piston damage over time as engines dont digest salt water very well.

Tip for next year, when you winterise indo the plug at the bottom of the cooler to drain down.
Click to expand...

hi VP..sorry to pick your brains but where, (when ive finished fighting to get it off), can i get that tested? is it something i can do? n if so how ?
 
Hey Steve.. sorry to hear about this one mate... I'm up early to go to Oldham tomorrow for an all dayer with t'customer for an ear bending but will be back down to Milton Keynes by the evening... if you need a hand, shout and I'll see if I can work the diary to pop over an help, even if it's to pick up parts from Keypart (will be in Hemel later in the week and they're 10 mins down the road from there). Good luck in the meantime

p.s. if VP says a pressure tester similar to one that's used on a leg is suitable, I have one I can bring over..
 
Hi Steve,
So sorry to hear about this :( Never a nice thing to hear.

Did you drain the charge air cooler of raw water as VP said? It's one of the first things I do (along with draining the black hose with a blue tag on it on the starboard side, below the heat exchanger) when the weather gets cold
 
oGaryo said:
Hey Steve.. sorry to hear about this one mate... I'm up early to go to Oldham tomorrow for an all dayer with t'customer for an ear bending but will be back down to Milton Keynes by the evening... if you need a hand, shout and I'll see if I can work the diary to pop over an help, even if it's to pick up parts from Keypart (will be in Hemel later in the week and they're 10 mins down the road from there). Good luck in the meantime
Click to expand...

hi gary...yes, to say im miffed is an understatement..it turns out that over the cold bit we had a short power cut, and that mucked up the timer on the fan heater!!!!!!!! didnt notice for a couple of days..i had drained the system but obviously not well enough. i will be killing myself later !!!!!......hope life on the rinker is as good as hoped for..
 
STEVEDUNSTABLE said:
hi gary...yes, to say im miffed is an understatement..it turns out that over the cold bit we had a short power cut, and that mucked up the timer on the fan heater!!!!!!!! didnt notice for a couple of days..i had drained the system but obviously not well enough. i will be killing myself later !!!!!......hope life on the rinker is as good as hoped for..
Click to expand...

hoping for the best (least expensive) outcome for you, fingers crossed and all.. offer's there is you need a hand

I have a remote temperature sensor that I used when I had the bowrider parked out front of the house 2 seasons ago, enables you to watch the temperature of the engine room from the house in real time and it has an historic counter so you can see what the lowest temp is since the last reset.. welcome to it if you can make use of the thing as I'll never use it again

still having a tinker with the Rinker but all looking good for the new season
 
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