Joining thin wires

[tudorsailor]

We used WAGO connectors. They are excellent, you can change your configuration and add remove items. The connectors can be packed into one of their boxes or you can use almost any container for the connector blocks.

Buy a selection of 2,3 & 5 way blocks.

I had not come across Wago Connectors before. It seems that a 2 slot connector effectively splices/joins one wire to another.

Why are they sold in 2,3 and 5 connectors and not 4?

Can one cheat and put more than one wire into a slot?

Thanks

TudorSailor

 

[Hydrozoan]

I had not come across Wago Connectors before. It seems that a 2 slot connector effectively splices/joins one wire to another.

Why are they sold in 2,3 and 5 connectors and not 4?

Can one cheat and put more than one wire into a slot?

Thanks

TudorSailor

Yes I believe you may - but that's just one type of Wago connector, with tiny lever clamps. As I mentioned above, they do other types (12 and 6? way) with 'push in to open' / 'release to grip' spring grip jaws.

Here's the 12 way http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fu...locks/0815852/. Dig in the tech specs to find the smaller version(s).

 

[Ian_D]

I still don't get how people can say crimp connectors are better than soldering. Speed wise, yes, otherwise no!

If I solder 2 thin wires together and crimp 2 thin wires together, then hang weights off them, I bet the solder joint will take more weight than the crimp before it fails!

If I had £1 for every failed crimp connector I have replaced, I would be be rich!

I always fine them badly crimped, and the cable has fallen out! I find them corroded, and gone high resistance (often see them burnt, if its on something with a lot of current - seen a handful of alternator crimp connectors that have almost started a fire!). I've also seen spades that are so loose they fall off the male spade. Also seen spades where the side of the female spade has snapped off, and hence loose!

So... IMO, I bloody hate crimp connectors. Unless they are properly crimped by a decent crimper, and more importantly, somebody who knows how to use it, dont bother, just solder them! And if you dont/cant solder them, find somebody who can, and leave the electrics well alone!

 

[Ceirwan]

I still don't get how people can say crimp connectors are better than soldering. Speed wise, yes, otherwise no!

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination&page=3

Interesting article on crimping here, and he does test the crimp, seems strong enough for me.

Though in light of the original question asked, for very small wires I would be tempted to solder and heatshrink, locally I find it impossible to get crimp terminals for anything under 0.75mm/2 ish, and a properly soldered and heat shrunk joint should still be more than adequate.

 

[prv]

If I solder 2 thin wires together and crimp 2 thin wires together, then hang weights off them, I bet the solder joint will take more weight than the crimp before it fails!

If the crimp was properly done, I'd expect both of them to fail at about the same weight, with the wire itself snapping just outside the crimp or just at the edge of the solder.

It's true that cheap crimps and crimp-tools often don't do a proper job.

Pete

 

[elton]

If the crimp was properly done, I'd expect both of them to fail at about the same weight, with the wire itself snapping just outside the crimp or just at the edge of the solder.

It's true that cheap crimps and crimp-tools often don't do a proper job.

Pete

I agree. But I'd add that whilst a soldered joint can be visually inspected for quality, with a high degree of confidence, a crimp can not. A bad crimp often looks exactly the same as a good one.

 

[30boat]

I always solder and never had a problem.Since that's my experience and I'm happy with the results.....

 

[lw395]

If the crimp was properly done, I'd expect both of them to fail at about the same weight, with the wire itself snapping just outside the crimp or just at the edge of the solder.

It's true that cheap crimps and crimp-tools often don't do a proper job.

Pete

A professional crimp done in a workshop with the correct tool, using the correct high quality crimps for the correct wire size is worlds away from amateur work where the wire is too small for the crimp, the tool came from a poundshop, done by an unpractised person working at an awkward angle in bad light.....
At least choc blox are an honest compromise, you know what to check!

Why do people ask me to sort out their wiring problem, then look cross when I pull the wires out of their crimps?

 

[David2452]

I agree. But I'd add that whilst a soldered joint can be visually inspected for quality, with a high degree of confidence, a crimp can not. A bad crimp often looks exactly the same as a good one.

If you use pre insulated crimps then yes, but they are not available in the size required and frankly they are not the thing to be using at any size. Just one of the reasons I advocate uninsulated open barrel crimps is they can be inspected before slipping on the boot, are available in the correct size, though the crimp tool is a specialised one at that size, and a bad one looks completely different to a good one. Other advantages when applied with a proper tool is the bell mouth lead in to prevent chafing and the immidiate strain relief provided by the separate crimp which grips the insulation.