Joining GPS cables

[nigelmercier]

Let's face it, most things in our houses are wired with screws bearing on the wires...

Different type of wire, and relatively little movement or moisture.

 

[nigelmercier]

... one really good way to do stuff like this, which allows for future additions and upgrades is to use barrier strips with bridges (where needed) connect to them using small ring terminals properly crimped and tested with the shank insulated and strain relieved with heat shrink. You can then stand back and look what a proper and lasting job you have done.

Excellent idea, but where do you get rigid barrier strips that you can screw to a panel?

 

[David2452]

Excellent idea, but where do you get rigid barrier strips that you can screw to a panel?

Loads of places Nigel, various numbers of bays and amp rating, I buy in bulk from HK with clear covers and jumper strips included but here's an example of a UK supplier.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/barrier-strips/0423330/

 

[David2452]

But is the kind of person who asks the question going to own the correct crimp tools and the correct crimps for each size of wire?

A bit right, but any job worth doing is worth doing properly, Halfords type red, yellow and blue crimps have about the same use as choc blocks in my view anyway. Reasonable quality open barrel "ass cheek" crimpers which will do any boat owner a lifetime of DIY service are cheap enough and the terminal sizes and types covered by them will do most jobs well and are actually cheaper than pre insulated (link below) anybody doing any cabling onboard would do well to invest in a pair. They do a lovely job time after time and the crimp can be easily verified as good.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RATCHET-CRIMPING-TOOL-NON-INSULATED-CRIMP-TERMINAL-CONNECTOR-BLUE-/151075471064?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D190852040994%26ps%3D54

A bit nicer and same price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RATCHET-CRIMPING-TOOL-FOR-NON-INSULATED-CRIMP-TERMINAL-CONNECTOR-RED/190865189529?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D286%26meid%3D9025690162831279938%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1048%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D151075471064%26

Edited to add, this may interest some.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

 

[marklucas]

Use these - simple and waterproof: http://www.telephone-store.co.uk/2-wire-idc-jelly-crimps-new-in-bag-connector-8a-1755

Which is why BT use them for connections.

 

[David2452]

Which is why BT use them for connections.

BT use them because they are designed to cut the insulation and save time when coupling solid core cables (no stripping needed) like those horrid Scotchlock connectors they can sever the small strands in multi strand cable when applied, also to correctly apply you need paralel jaw pliers otherwise you increase the chances of a poor connection as the plunger "cackles". Another example of getting away with it if they work rather than doing the job right. Also not demountable and impossible to add upgrades to. Frankly ease of use apart you may as well twist the cables together and cover in adhesive lined heat shrink, actually properly done like that it would be a more reliable method. Again, not permitted for use under any current standard.

 

[nigelmercier]

Which is why BT use them for connections.

IDC connections are just about the worst type you can get.

 

[nigelmercier]

I buy in bulk from HK with clear covers and jumper strips included...

Are you wiling to sell a couple?

 

[erbster]

Back to the OP question, one really good way to do stuff like this, which allows for future additions and upgrades is to use barrier strips with bridges (where needed) connect to them using small ring terminals properly crimped and tested with the shank insulated and strain relieved with heat shrink. You can then stand back and look what a proper and lasting job you have done.

Thanks for your comments.
What is the difference between a "choc block" and a barrier strip? Is it because the wires connect using ring terminals?

How would you compare the reliability of this compared to soldering the wires to strip board?

 

[fisherman]

http://s629.photobucket.com/user/empomire/media/A1/DSCN2324_zpse9293afd.jpg.html
I made this distributor for nmea feeds, bits from Rapid Electronics, few pence each, I can plug either GPS in and feed radar, computer, DSC.

 

[David2452]

Are you wiling to sell a couple?

Yes, PM me if you like, off on holiday in a few days mind.

Meanwhile here is a link to the ones I use for small stuff up to about 15a, they have enough bays even if you are installing one of the latest gen MFDs with multiple 0183 in and out channels either for immediate use or later equipment additions.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-Position-Jumper-Strip-for-Dual-Row-Barrier-Strips/121114132143?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D9061753485988577016%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D190857806704%26

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600V-15A-...547&pid=100033&prg=1011&rk=3&sd=190865189529&

 

[David2452]

Thanks for your comments.
What is the difference between a "choc block" and a barrier strip? Is it because the wires connect using ring terminals?

How would you compare the reliability of this compared to soldering the wires to strip board?

Quality barrier strips (tecincally a choc block is a barrier strip too) are tinned copper with retention screws and star washers for ring terminals, good soldering of small conductors to a board is perfectly acceptable if decent strain relief is provided within a very short distance. Main disadvantage is it's fiddly and not easily demounted or modified/upgraded.

 

[erbster]

Thanks for the detailed responses, David.

 

[erbster]

OK, so I have finally got round to sorting this out.

I have bought barrier strips, but I'm having trouble with crimping. I looked around for suitable crimp connectors; the problem is that the wires are very thin (GPS cables) and the smallest connectors seem to the red ones. As a consequence, the connection is mechanically very weak (or non-existent). Is this because the connectors are wrong (in which case, where do I get ones smaller than the red ones?) or because the crimp tool is poor (I've tried two)? Are are very thin wires unsuitable for crimping?

 

[David2452]

Presumably you are using pre insulated "Halfords" type rings, if so bin them. PM me the screw size and an address and I will mail you some small proper size crimps and heat shrink for an RNLI donation in your local tin, barrier strips are usually 4 or 5mm retaining screws but do check.

 

[MrCramp]

I have used Bulgin connectors for joining wires, using different sizes dependant upon what is being joined. Used them for my autopilot/nmea?? feed and to Yeoman plotter. This is one supplier.
http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/bulgin-bucaneer.html

 

[erbster]

David, Thank-you! PM sent.

 

[Mistroma]

I remove my radio each year for winter storage and something quick and idiot proof would be useful for a saloon, panel mounted VHF.

I wondered if something like "StarTech.com 12 inch 4-pin Fan Power Extension Cable - M/F" might be fine in a dry location. Just a matter of soldering to existing wires. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380788684308. This was the first item my search returned and also considered Molex connectors, but it should be possible to buy better quality with gold plated pins.

Something designed to carry data would be better as it's less likely to suffer from flaky connections.
e.g. Cut wire on SATA cable shown here to get male/female connectors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191096045072

 

[erbster]

Thanks for the ideas, but I don't expect to disconnect often (ever?) and I need a connection which is secure and damp-resistant.

 

[Mistroma]

Thanks for posing the question, it prompted me to think about improving the connection on my own boat. It came with nasty connectors and I'd not considered replacing them until I saw your question. The thought, "what's wrong with computer connectors for a data connection?" jumped into my head. They are usually idiot proof, most types give a good connection, they are dirt cheap and simple to pull apart (if needed). Damp isn't an issue for me and I can try some Contralube to keep corrosion at bay.

I posted the message in the hope another forumite would suggest a better plug/socket option or give a sound reason why it's a bad idea in principle.