Joining corroded electric wire

Topcat47 said:
+1 for the heat shrink. It's not the total answer but it does extend the life of untied wire. I also add a smear of Fernox LSX after crimping but before the heat shrink. The heat shrink squeezes it into the end of the cable adding a smidgeon of watertightness.
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Or just buy glue heat shrink instead of the plain heat shrink which will be water tight.
 
thinwater said:
I've done enough side-by-side testing in ASTM salt chambers to know that this is not nearly true. Tinned wire will last at least 10 times longer, because the tin serves as galvanic protection, much like zinc on steel. Tinned wire is specified by ABYC standard. That is not to say that tinned wire will last forever if lying in salt water (it won't--but it will last a number of years) or that plain copper wire is not useable if kept dry (stranded copper meets USCG standards).
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Regardless of any galvanic protection, I think tinning the ends of ready-tinned or untinned cable with a soldering iron is worth doing as it turns the end of the wire to a solid rather than a wick which draws moisture back along the cable to corrode it within the un-stripped section.
 
I tried tinning the ends and that was when I discovered i could not solder them together. The solder never took to the wire with rust like powder on it.

Where can I get in UK a 135 deg individual front red and green led nav lights at a reasonable price as tempted to replace them. Can you buy the insulated cables set in a protective rubber sheath approx 8mms dia?
 
thinwater said:
I've done enough side-by-side testing in ASTM salt chambers to know that this is not nearly true. Tinned wire will last at least 10 times longer, because the tin serves as galvanic protection, much like zinc on steel. Tinned wire is specified by ABYC standard. That is not to say that tinned wire will last forever if lying in salt water (it won't--but it will last a number of years) or that plain copper wire is not useable if kept dry (stranded copper meets USCG standards).
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This is right, I apologize for allowing my zeal for insulation, to belittle tinned wire. My whole point is that the cable must have isolation from the harsh environment. However, (for the record), if tinned cable is lying in salt water, it will be grounding itself, and quickly deteriorate, as well as pulling extra power etc.etc..!
In the UK/EU, do we have a similar set of standards to those that the USCG mandate?
 
jwilson said:
Still working OK but now looking for a new LED bicolour that either has cable connected inside the light, or comes with almost 2 metres of pre-wired cable. Anything with a shorter wire will need a joint either open to air, inside the pulpit tubing, or inside the anchor locker.
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This might do the trick... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Navigation-Light-Stainless-Steel-BICOLOUR-GREEN-RED-Yacht-Sailing-NAVSPHBIC/282742289689?hash=item41d4c0f519:g:XDEAAOSwaNBUibR0
 
Sailfree said:
Where can I get in UK a 135 deg individual front red and green led nav lights at a reasonable price as tempted to replace them. Can you buy the insulated cables set in a protective rubber sheath approx 8mms dia?
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Roger

Have a look here. I have used this seller before with good results. He does combined bow and individual lights. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Navigation-Light-Stainless-Steel-RED-Port-Boat-Yacht-Sailing-Marine-NAVSPHRD/282742289694?hash=item41d4c0f51e:g:nq4AAOSwD0lUibRe
 
Dougal said:
Whenever i've had to solder corroded wire, I've simply applied electricians flux first, rubbing it into the strands. Its always brought the copper back to shiny.
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lw395 said:
What exactly do you mean by 'electricians flux'?
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Lon nan Gruagach said:
Plumbers' flux that the sparky nicked?
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ITYWF that plumbers flux often tends to be corrosive and therefore unsuitable for electrical work

I use a rosin based flux on wiring etc. I acquired a little pot ( about 125g) 45 years or so ago Now about 1/4 used. To all intents and purposes it has "seen me out".
 
thinwater said:
I've done enough side-by-side testing in ASTM salt chambers to know that this is not nearly true. Tinned wire will last at least 10 times longer, because the tin serves as galvanic protection, much like zinc on steel. Tinned wire is specified by ABYC standard. That is not to say that tinned wire will last forever if lying in salt water (it won't--but it will last a number of years) or that plain copper wire is not useable if kept dry (stranded copper meets USCG standards).
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Some questions you may be able to answer

What is the "tin " on tinned copper wire ? Is it pure tin or a tin alloy?

How is it applied ?
 
VicS said:
Some questions you may be able to answer

What is the "tin " on tinned copper wire ? Is it pure tin or a tin alloy?

How is it applied ?
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It's solder, so it's a tin alloy.

Copper wire will be drawn through a bath of molten "tin", then the tinned wires will be made up into a cable.
 
penberth3 said:
Something like this? I've got one.

2499797_150203062210_FLUXITE_SOLDERING_PASTE_COVER.jpg
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Mine is called Alcho-RE Paste Flux, made by Frys Metals Ltd., for "electrical and radio soldering". https://www.solderconnection.com/p588/Alcho-Re-Paste-Flux.html

Fluxite contains zinc chloride. Its intended for engineering and sheet metal work. I'd not use it for electrical wiring or electronics
 
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These days there are better fluxes around.
Some of them are available in a 'felt tip pen' dispenser.
Look for 'no clean flux', this means it does not need to be removed after soldering.

Proper crimping works well on tarnished copper, there should be enough movement going on to shear through the oxide layers.
Possibly not going to be so good with insulated crimps and DIY tools.
 
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