Joining anchor rodes

[annageek]

We have a mix of chain and rode, but we only have an effective anchoring depth of about 8m (8m chain, 40m rode). I'd like to extend this a bit by adding some more rode. I'm looking at getting another 50m of 12mm 3-strand nylon rope (to match the rode we currently have). What's the best (most reliable / strongest) way to join them on a pretty much permanent basis?

1. In-line Splice - and if so, how much length do I have to splice together?

2. Some form of knot pair?

3. Junk the 40m of rode we currently have and just buy 100m - prefer not for reasons of expense!

4. Something else?

I'm guessing number 1 should be fine, and will be the lowest profile so it'll fit nicely through the bow roller without snagging up, but any ther advice will be welcome before I spend the best part of a weekend figuring out how to splice ropes together

 

[longjohnsilver]

I'd look at the spicing option, but as the worlds worst splicer I can't give any advice as to how to do it, but there are videos on YouTube that should help.

 

[Tranona]

In line splice is very bulky. Better to keep rope all in one length. If you just bought 50m and spliced that to the chain then have an eye splice in the bitter end which you can use to add the other 40m if you need.

 

[annageek]

In line splice is very bulky. Better to keep rope all in one length. If you just bought 50m and spliced that to the chain then have an eye splice in the bitter end which you can use to add the other 40m if you need.

Is it likely to be much bulkier than the back splice (don't know if that is the correct name) used to join the rope to the chain? I can probably coper with up to about double the diameter of the rope, as long as it's a reasonably smooth transition from thick-thin. Turning it around so I have the extra 10m on the anchor end is a good idea thought.

 

[prv]

Is it likely to be much bulkier than the back splice (don't know if that is the correct name) used to join the rope to the chain?

If your rope to chain joint is the kind that goes through one link of the chain and then back into the rope, then a short splice between two pieces of rope will be about the same size. (There is also the long splice which is the same size as the rope itself, but that's real sailorising rarely seen since the age of sail, and I've no idea if it even works in synthetic rope )

Pete

 

[benjenbav]

Slightly left-field suggestion: buy another few metres of chain as well and link as follows:

anchor-chain-rope-chain-rope

Each rope/chain connection could be made with (easy) eye-splices in the rope and I suspect you might get the double-bubble of the whole thing having catenary characteristics much closer to all-chain.

 

[omega2]

http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Splice Instructions/3Strand_C1_Long Splice_AUG2012_WEB.pdf

NOT DIFFICULT !!

 

[RogerRat]

Being a bit of an anorak on splices, I have tried them all. If you're splicing onto chain with 3 ply rope and you NEED to get the rope to run happily through the chain gypsy then it has to be a specific chain splice. A eye spice increases diameter too much and it will snag,

Now the point here is that this splice ('Chain splice') is based on the "Long Splice" meaning it is exactly the same method but back to itself not a separate rope. This is the correct splice to join two 3-ply ropes of the same diameter together. It is fiddly the first time but works perfectly. To ensure the diameter is not increased, one lay is removed and then effectively back spliced in opposite directions. The splice will be about 500mm long on a 12 mm rope but will not snag in the gypsy. :encouragement:

Also remember, overall strength of the warp will be reduced, probably by about 10-20% but not sure as I've not had one break and I can't remember the official figures given.

RR

 

[benjenbav]

Being a bit of an anorak on splices, I have tried them all. If you're splicing onto chain with 3 ply rope and you NEED to get the rope to run happily through the chain gypsy then it has to be a specific chain splice. A eye spice increases diameter too much and it will snag,

Now the point here is that this splice ('Chain splice') is based on the "Long Splice" meaning it is exactly the same method but back to itself not a separate rope. This is the correct splice to join two 3-ply ropes of the same diameter together. It is fiddly the first time but works perfectly. To ensure the diameter is not increased, one lay is removed and then effectively back spliced in opposite directions. The splice will be about 500mm long on a 12 mm rope but will not snag in the gypsy. :encouragement:

Also remember, overall strength of the warp will be reduced, probably by about 10-20% but not sure as I've not had one break and I can't remember the official figures given.



RR

Eye splices are about my limit, I think. I'm in awe of people who can splice properly.

 

[piratos]

We have a mix of chain and rode, but we only have an effective anchoring depth of about 8m (8m chain, 40m rode). I'd like to extend this a bit by adding some more rode. I'm looking at getting another 50m of 12mm 3-strand nylon rope (to match the rode we currently have). What's the best (most reliable / strongest) way to join them on a pretty much permanent basis?

Hello Anna,
If I remember right you have a Fletcher ??
Ofcourse a splice would be nicest, but on the other hand when do you really need more than a total of 48 m ???
50 m of 12 mm rope is like having two 500 A starterbatteries in your boat

If you splice additional 50 m to your existing set up, you will have a lot of rope to handle ! Whenever you would feel the need for additional rope its soo easy just to put two ends together.
I would even go as far as to suggest the additional rope could well be a lot smaller like 6 or 8 mm. Its easier to handly and at anchor you will NEVER face anything the strength of this rope cannot handle.

Enjoy a good nights sleep at anchor :sleeping:

 

[Greg2]

To answer your question 1 (assuming that I am reading it correctly) a splice will require five 'tucks' each side assuming that it is man-made fibre. The key to a good splice is making sure that each one is as tight as possible. To ease the passage of the rope through a gypsy putting a whipping/seizing over the ends of the splice (or using tape or bespoke rubber sleeves) might help.

 

[RogerRat]

To answer your question 1 (assuming that I am reading it correctly) a splice will require five 'tucks' each side assuming that it is man-made fibre. The key to a good splice is making sure that each one is as tight as possible. To ease the passage of the rope through a gypsy putting a whipping/seizing over the ends of the splice (or using tape or bespoke rubber sleeves) might help.

Nope, you missed the meaning this time. Any tucks of the complete rope in a splice will increase the diameter to cause a chain gypsy jamm or derailment.
The idea of using a chain splice is that there is no increase in rope diameter. The chain links will fit the sprocket and a 3 ply rope if chosen correctly will run through just like a moving jamming cleat. The gypsy will grip the rope and be able to both push and pull on the grooves of the 3 ply.

The OP only mentioned rope to chain.... In this case, any splice, knot or lockable hitch will do. Splices only become an issue when running through a chain gypsy.:encouragement:

RR

 

[Greg2]

Nope, you missed the meaning this time. Any tucks of the complete rope in a splice will increase the diameter to cause a chain gypsy jamm or derailment.
The idea of using a chain splice is that there is no increase in rope diameter. The chain links will fit the sprocket and a 3 ply rope if chosen correctly will run through just like a moving jamming cleat. The gypsy will grip the rope and be able to both push and pull on the grooves of the 3 ply.

The OP only mentioned rope to chain.... In this case, any splice, knot or lockable hitch will do. Splices only become an issue when running through a chain gypsy.:encouragement:

RR

Okay......I thought the original question was about adding some more rope so splicing the new rope to the existing rope so my answer was to point 1 i.e. how much rope to splice. Agree that a chain splice is the way to go if it is attaching rope to chain

 

[annageek]

Wow, thanks for all the responses.

For my, there is no chain gypsy to worry about. Just a plain old roller on the bow. It's probably a gap of something between above 25mm, so doubling the diameter of 12mm rope wouldn't hurt (as long as it was no bigger). It is only a 19' Fletcher, afterall.. and the windlass is my right hand... followed by my left... and then my right etc. Needless to say I have arms like tree trunks!

12mm is what we have already, so I naturally assumed I'd go for the same on no other real basis. I take the point of the extra bulk and lack of flexibility though. It's massive overkill for us, but I guess there is a remote chance that in the unlikely event something would start abrading the rode whilst at anchor, 12mm would last just slightly longer than, say, 8mm, which in a stunning co-incidence could make a difference between staying put and drifting free. I know that's a very protracted hypothetical scenario, but in reality knowing that your anchor/chain/rode is all overkill, it is part of the difference between a good night's sleep at anchor, and constant worry/no sleep at all.

I like the idea of keeping the extra rope detached and only adding it in when necessary, but in practice, the only place it would be stored is in the anchor locker anyway... so may as well already be rigged up for use.

I know close to 100m overall anchor scope is a lot, but there's always the worry of a break down that required the anchor to prevent drift, and 100m only gives you 16m of depth if you go by the book at 6:1 scope: depth. I know in such a situation, a perfect hold isn't necessary... but it's always nice to have a bit more than you need.

I'm going to go with http://www.animatedknots.com/spliceshort/ I managed to splice loops into some new fender lines without too much trouble, and this looks equally straight forward. I'm intending to add an extra one tuck on strand 2 and an extra two tucks on strand 3 - with a view to trying to achieve a slightly tapered end. I saw this technique when working how to do my fender loops, and tried it. It looked crap for hte fenders so I didn't bother, but I'm OK with function before style for my anchor's bit of string!