Joining Anchor Chain

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timb

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I have 2 10 meter lengths of 8mm anchor chain that I wish to join to make one 20 meter length for my Sadler 26.

What is the best method to do this?

I have purchased a chain joining link but this looks fairly weak. Has anybody any experience of these and if so what is the best method of pienning the ends of the pins for a strong and safe grip.

Or should I just use a galvanized shackle? - I have no anchor windlass.
 
I did some investigation into this a while ago and found that those links you rivet together are not strong as the equivalent size chain. They are literally a "weak link".

The Plastimo website, for example, quotes the swl of their 8mm Chain as 1600 kg and the swl of their 8mm rivetted Chain Joining Link as 150 kg!

I think you'll find that the only way to join chain and maintain the swl is to use a proper chain joining shackle which has an oval pin. The trouble is finding them in small sizes. I have managed to find a 10mm one but cannot find an 8mm size. If you happen across a supplier please let me know!
 
Re: Joining Anchor Chain (yes it will work BUT!!!!!!)

I used one of these double 3/8” “C” shaped links and spliced an extra 15 fathoms (that dates me) of 5/16th (that dates me as well) chain onto the existing length. Carried out the work late in the evening (it was dark) and stowed the chain away.

The very next weekend I went off for an overnight cruise with some friends and ended up anchoring in Loch Goil with no problems with the chain link. The next day we headed back for home but were met with ferocious gusts of southerly warm winds blasting up Loch Long which sent us scurrying back into Loch Goil for shelter. The “Mum and Dad” of all gales blew up and although we had now anchored back in in “Loch Goil” the yacht was almost blown flat at anchor as she veered back and forth to the chain. (remember the link!)

The gale actually reached storm conditions and the large securing pad on the Avon was torn from the main fabric of the dingy which was last seen “flying at about 20 feet in the air doing somersaults as it was picked up by small whirlwinds. During the rest of the afternoon the storm increased in strength and ferocity with the chain shuddering as gust hit the boat. (remember the link!) We now had no choice but to ride out the storm so with all of the chain paid out, the rudder lashed and the “25lb” Angel set about half way down the chain we crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.

During the night the yacht was tossed around like a cork and time and again the chain was drawn taught sending shudder after shudder through the hull. At this point, I should let you know that none of my friends knew of the “Chain Link” but they were a little perplexed as to why when every time the chain sent an even more violent shudder than normal through the hull, that my face was one of terror, after all I was the most experienced of the four of us.

The evening wore on with the next crisis being that one of our ladies announced on returning from the heads that the bog was now out of action. OK, we still had a bucket which was put into service by the second lady crew. On handing this to her fiancée he set out of the cabin only to find that as he went to empty the contents over the side, a particularly strong gust caught the bucket tearing it from the handle. This left us with a small plastic basin which kept the ladies going though the night. (funny, in those days I used to only need to pee once a day) Think I threw away the small plastic basin.

As dawn broke the storm subsided, leaving us still at anchor and pretty pleased to have survived the night. The “link” had held and when we got back to our home mooring, I had a good look at the rivits of the link to find that it was still in good condition.

OK a success story for the link but before you go out and fit one, just remember the old hymn “Will your anchor hold in the storm” You also need to think about insurance claim if you loose the boat due to a chain link failing. As to using a shackle, mmmm you need to go up at least on size and you will also find that it jams in the hawse pipe. I wonder if the best route would be to get the chain welded by a chain company using an approved method, not just a bit of stick welding.

Anyway whatever route you take just make sure you will be able to sleep well in your bunk with someone on watch.
 
Just had a look at Jimmy Green's website and they are offering 20 metres of galvanised tested 8mm chain for £101. What's a good night's sleep worth?!
 
Get it welded by a competent welder with a TIGG welder. Cut out the existing weld from a single link and use the 'C' shaped piece to link the two lengths together. Get the welder to refill the gap with solid metal. It will be as strong as the original because it will be the same as the original. If you do all the humping about of the chain and cut the link you will only need to pay for about 10 minutes of time from the welder.
 
Have used one of these links on my chain for many years with no problem. Since it was looking a bit rusty I replaced it last year with a new link, but should not have bothered. The old one had welded itself together and looked like a solid piece of metal when cut open. I do see the newer link (Plastimo) is not quite the same, and after a year has not shown any sign of doing welding itself yet.

Would be interested know if anyone has had a similar link fail.
 
"Have used one of these links on my chain for many years with no problem.."

Using one of these weak "C" links is a BIG mistake, knowing that their strenght is much lower that the one of the chain.... and suggesting others to use them, just because over years one doesn't have a problem, is CRIMINAL.

And this for what ?? "to save" about £ 100?? What is the value of your boat?? Unless you will ask your insurance company to buy a new one for you??
 
Using a good two piece C link is perfectly fine and there are thousands out there right now being used without the slightest problem.

Like most things you can buy cheap (ie Plastimo which is probably 99% chinese made like most of their stuff) which would be regarded as Criminal :-) or you can use one made by a reputable manuafcturer like Crosby.

A 5/16" Crosby or an Acco have a WLL of 2000# odd, from memory so don't quote me on that :-). Standard 8mm anchor chain WLL 1750#. Common everyday 8mm shackle WLL 440#, 10mm 700#.

Should the above post actually read;
"Using one of these weak SHACKLES is a BIG mistake, knowing that their strenght is much lower that the one of the chain.... and suggesting others to use them, just because over years one doesn't have a problem, is CRIMINAL." :-)

A good C Link is as strong as most chains in use. This is well proven by many.

You could use a shackle but that would be a lot weaker than a good C link but good for most 98% of the time. Can I add "A shackle weaker than your chain joining the anchor is exactly what you want anyway".

Or you can weld it, or should I say, someone who knows how to weld well.
 
Straight from the Crosby catalogue, a 5/16" / 8mm 'Missing Link' has a WLL (SWL) of 1950 lb / 890 kg
Grade 30 chain - 1900 lb / 860 kg
Grade 40 chain - 3900 lb / 1770 kg
Grade 70 chain - 4700 lb / 2130 kg
Grade 80 chain - 4500 lb / 2000 kg (suitable for overhead lifting)
So if your anchor chain is in the Grade 30 area, a 'Missing Link' will not weaken it. If it is a higher grade chain, you pays your money .........

Dave
 
Damn that was good, I only missed by 50# on the WLL. Maybe the grey hairs are not as powerful as I thought :-)

Crosby gear is very clearly marked with their name on it, usually cast in. This is definatly the case with thier C links / missing links. Just make sure nobody tries a 'switch a roonee' on you.

Crosby is (was??) in Canada and very available in the US. Try a more 'industrial supplies' type outfit, that deals with commercial more than recreational, rather than a chandlery who will probably only have the cheap nasties.
 
Alain POIRAUD

I am sorry for posting my experiences - I thought that was the point of this forum.

Don't remember recommending anyone else using a C -link, although I believe this thread for many to be useful - I shall certainly be looking for a better C-link than Plastimo now, but a C-link it will remain.

Not sure how this turns me into a CRIMINAL.

Would still be interested to hear if anyone has had a failure with such a link.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Would still be interested to hear if anyone has had a failure with such a link.

[/ QUOTE ]Much as it goes against the grain to agree with Hylas, I regretably must admit in this case I do agree - I had one of those "C" links come apart a few years ago. Wound up drifting across Tobermory bay in the early dawn while all below fast asleep.
Since then I weld my chain if I need to join two (or three) lengths together.
--------------------
hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
this thread, like many on anchoring and related, seems to be polarising into apples and pears rather than actually differing views - and again as usual the generalisations create the arguments!

As ed's post demonstrates the quality of your chain has a huge impact on the loading strength - how many people here actual know the grade of their chain? (I admit I don't I just bought 8mm anchor chain from a reputable supplier).

Equally as contributed a 'quality' c link, properly installed can be a match for the original chain.

A poor quality, or badly installed link (and I am not suggesting Cliff would have installed his badly!!!), would be a serious weak point or risk in pretty much any chain - but in a highly rated one expected to reach it's working loads it would be almost certain to fail. Installing such, or recommending such an installation to others without all the caveats above would be 'unwise'.

Everyone happy?
 
The only anchor I ever lost was a Bruce lodged in rock. We hove short with everything and everyone up in the bows, moved everything and everyone aft and hoped a combination of buoyancy and the waves would do the rest. It did, and the "C" link broke.

Please, don't bother telling me I should have used a tripping line.
 
...but you could have improvised a tripping line by sliding a ring and line down the warp.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
...but you could have improvised a tripping line by sliding a ring and line down the warp.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Not with a Bruce jammed in rock you can't.
 
I cannot disagree with the technical and practical experience part of this thread, and it does make you think about this issue. Replies such as from Hylas are a bit OTT and distract from the issues involved. From the tone of the thread I have been trying to track down the Crosby link.

However, according to the latest Plastimo catalogue, an 8mm chain link has a SWL of 1000 Kg, and their 8mm chain has a SWL of 1600 Kg. More worryingly they say 'use as a temporary chain connection only'! Am not sure why they say this - does the SWL deteriate on this fitting?

Yes this is obviously a 'weak link' and doesn't look satisfactory.

However, assuming these figures are accurate, and looking at the rest of the ground tackle - what is the real weak link? Can your deck fitting take 1000Kg? What about the rope splice? How much will you realistically get out of your anchor before it drags (mine 25lb CQR - 400Kg maybe?). Really the question depends a lot on what the boat is and the rest of the gear.


I take the point about cost of a replacement chain, but mine is rather longer than 20m so rather more than £100, and boating for most is all about budgets.

Maripose - if you had not had a weak link what would have been the outcome or your predicament? Would the anchor have been recovered? Would you have damaged your boat trying? Would you have lost all of you chain and warp?

Perhaps anyone finding the best of this type of fitting should post it, and leave it up to the boat owner to decide, as every situation is different, and one answer does not suit all.
 
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