Joining anchor chain

pandos

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I want to add to the length of my anchor chain. I have 40m of 10 mm and an electric windlass I intend to add 20 m more.

Rarely would I need to use more than 30m It ocurrs to me that if I join these with a permanent link that in an emergency I would have to drop the whole 60m.

To avoid this I was thinking of joining the sections with a dyneema lashing or even a soft shackle. or both...

What does the audience think?
 
Have 20m of cord attached to a buoy in the anchor locker to clip onto the bitter end of the chain, then you can ditch the lot and recover it later.

Just remember 10mm chain comes in 2 incompatible size specifications, ISO and Din. If you buy extra chain make sure its the same spec as your current chain (and windlass). It will be stamped somewhere on the gypsy (if you are lucky on the outside edge - otherwise on the 2 plates that face each other).

Some chandlers will give you (others might charge) say 10 links of chain - join them up by the methods you suggest and try it.

Personally I'd use a 'C' link to join them.

People simply do not report ever 'losing' all their chain - I think you worry too much - but I'd still add the extra cordage as the Lady suggests.

Jonathan
 
I would not use Dyneema the chafe resistance is much lower than chain.

A double clevis pin might be good option in your case .The extra chain can just be disconnected by pulling a split pin. They are available in G7+ options which should be as strong as the chain, but check the specifications. They are designed to be a similar profile as the chain links and most users report they will pass around the windlass without issue. This depends on the gypsy so you will need to try this for yourself, but they are not expensive.
C23FB9E4-CCF2-4CFC-99AD-6D5E809655D2.jpeg
Unfortunately they are not available galvanised (as far as I am aware), but if you paint it with cold galvanising it will have a reasonable life, and is easily replaced.

The picture shows an imperial 3/8 model, but you would be better with a metric 10mm version to match the chain specifications.
 
I would not use Dyneema the chafe resistance is much lower than chain.

A double clevis pin might be good option in your case .The extra chain can just be disconnected by pulling a split pin. They are available in G7+ options which should be as strong as the chain, but check the specifications. They are designed to be a similar profile as the chain links and most users report they will pass around the windlass without issue. This depends on the gypsy so you will need to try this for yourself, but they are not expensive.
View attachment 126270
Unfortunately they are not available galvanised (as far as I am aware), but if you paint it with cold galvanising it will have a reasonable life, and is easily replaced.

The picture shows an imperial 3/8 model, but you would be better with a metric 10mm version to match the chain specifications.
Interesting. I guess that link might go around a horizontal windlass quite easily but I cannot imagine it going around the gypsy on my vertical Maxwell. Any more info?

I cannot imagine any reason why adding to the existing length of chain would be disadvantageous in the unlikely event of dropping it all on the seabed. Most of us have a single length of chain. Mine is 65 metres but many carry as much as 100.
 
Interesting. I guess that link might go around a horizontal windlass quite easily but I cannot imagine it going around the gypsy on my vertical Maxwell. Any more info?

I cannot imagine any reason why adding to the existing length of chain would be disadvantageous in the unlikely event of dropping it all on the seabed. Most of us have a single length of chain. Mine is 65 metres but many carry as much as 100.
The advantage I would be seeking is to have 20m on board which may be useful in any situation where the first 40m had been abandoned...
 
The advantage I would be seeking is to have 20m on board which may be useful in any situation where the first 40m had been abandoned...
Interesting, how would the link know whether it was going round a vertical or horizontal gypsy?
Edit: Sorry, addressed to the wrong post. It's in response to the theory that the joining link suggested by Noelex, would go round a horizontal gypsy alright, but for some reason not a vertical one. The reasoning escapes me.
 
Interesting, how would the link know whether it was going round a vertical or horizontal gypsy?
Edit: Sorry, addressed to the wrong post. It's in response to the theory that the joining link suggested by Noelex, would go round a horizontal gypsy alright, but for some reason not a vertical one. The reasoning escapes me.
It's not a theory, it's a question. In a horizontal windlass there are no restrictions of any sort. In my vertical windlass the chain, and a possible bulky link, turns 90 degrees through a small orifice, past a stripper, round the gypsy, past the stripper again. Seems to me there might be opportunities for it to snag.
 
Good reason for having a kedge anchor and warp standing by.
My kedge will have a short length of chain (about 10m), the plan would be to have say 40m nylon rode that can be used on either anchor

I see that having 20m of 10mm with the additional nylon rode shackled on using a spare main anchor would be a viable anchoring system, which would be amenable to the use of the windlass, particularly when sailing solo.... (my trusty CQR will be standing by in the bilge, in anticipation)
 
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