Jib Halyard Wrap?

CaptainBob

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I posted earlier about this without photos and with a bad title.

Upshot is I've had a new furler installed (Harken Cruising #1) and in the manual it says about the importance of avoiding halyard wrap by ensuring the halyard is at a positive angle (upwards) to the forestay.

Mine isn't, but there's such a short amount of halyard showing that perhaps it's not a problem in this instance - but if it is, there's not a lot of room to install a pulley on the mast to correct it.

Here's some pictures, let me know what you think:

halyardwrap1.jpg


halyardwrap2.jpg


halyardwrap3.jpg
 
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let me know what you think:
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The proof of the pudding etc etc!
Your set-up is very similar to that on my boat. Worked OK for me for a number of years. If I were nit-picking, which of course I'm not, I'd comment that the halyard splice appears to run over the sheave, if that matters?, and the halyard is very close to the sharp edge of the mast plates. There could well be a bit of movement as the foil and bearing rotate to cause chafe on the rope if it touches.
 
Honest answer ? I don't like that one bit. Plastimo's recc'd angle is 20 deg ... and that really applies to all systems that use a hoisting halyard. Profurl being exception as they often use the same furling line to hoist genny .. making halyard wrap impossible, halyard is then redundant.

I would seriously investigate possibility of small block on mast but given such short space - you have a problem ... to reduce block size to allow fitting - would also mean reducing halyard size ..

I wish my foil / genny went as high as yours !! but then again I don;t want your problem !

Arrrrrr just had a thought ...

Could you rig a small second line as I have but with the block fitted to side of mast instead of in front ... similar to many topping lifts .. then you could still have halyard as it is ... with second 6mm line up side of mast through small block ... then shackled to halyard swivel ... hoist sail ... tighten light line to stop wrap ?

halyardssagenny.jpg


Move the block as I have from front ... round to side .. then it's clear of foil etc. - but will work fine.
 
If the splice / sheave situation will take it, you could replace the shackle with a longer one - some are supplied with a bend (not twist) for this very job.
As it is, it looks OK to me (much the same as my own, with the little roller guide suppled in the reefing kit now in the spares box)
 
Looks OK to me I'd see how it works out in reality before I made any changes. Furl and unfurl a couple of times, if thats OK then go sailing. IMHO there is almost no rope to get caught round the twisting tube on the forestay so I think it will be fine.
 
I see what you mean about lack of space/distance to fit a block on the mast. Is it possible to lower the foot of the sail to give more room at the top to fit a block on the mast thus giving you the required angle for the halyard?
 
No, it's tight to the bottom :(

I now have very similar distances from the head ot the sail to the block at the top of the mast and find I don't need a turning block with the present Genoa.

What you have should be fine.

I have a Plastimo 1012T roller.

My smaller blade foresail does not hoist so high and if I want to use it on the rolling foil I will definately need to fit a a turning block.

I fitted a removable inner forestay which can take either the blade or storm jib on hanks independant of the rolling genoa.

Iain
 
Another possibility

My smaller blade foresail does not hoist so high and if I want to use it on the rolling foil I will definately need to fit a a turning block.

Not necessarily. Fit a short strop between the head of the sail and the upper slider on the foil, so that the length of halyard between the slider and the mast is no more than your genoa has. We had the same problem with a genoa that was cut too small; a 12 inch strop cured the wrap problem.
 
I hate to be a moaner but whilst it may work at the moment I suspect that if you give it a few months and let the nasty salt spray and weather get to the swivel then it will get slightly stiffer. This higher resistance will tend to cause the top part of the swivel to want to turn with the rest of the furler. With the halyard not being at the correct angle then halyard wrap is much more likely.
 
Not necessarily. Fit a short strop between the head of the sail and the upper slider on the foil, so that the length of halyard between the slider and the mast is no more than your genoa has. We had the same problem with a genoa that was cut too small; a 12 inch strop cured the wrap problem.

That's exactly what we did as we had massive halyard wrap when we used the Jib. It works a treat.

With the Genoa up it looks very similar to the photos above and works fine as well.

Mark
 
For what it's worth, we find with our (ancient) Facnor furler one of the main things is the tension on the haliyard - too much and we seem pull the swivel apart and it jams, too little and it wraps. It took us a while to get the "twang" sound in the haliyard above the winch right.
 
I hate to be a moaner but whilst it may work at the moment I suspect that if you give it a few months and let the nasty salt spray and weather get to the swivel then it will get slightly stiffer. This higher resistance will tend to cause the top part of the swivel to want to turn with the rest of the furler. With the halyard not being at the correct angle then halyard wrap is much more likely.

I totally agree and is why I don't like what I see in the photos. Even if halyard is short and doesn't wrap right round - repeated abrading when it tries to will chafe the exposed part ..

Despite others accepting it - I wouldn't. I don't fancy a mast climbing exercise or replacing halyard for sake of a small block and line to stop any problem.
 
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