Jabsco Twist & Lock Toilet

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sailorsmum

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Hello, I seem to be spending all my time in the toilet - fitting it - can anyone help me get a life?

I have just swapped from a RM69 toilet, of which I have fitted 3 of these flimsy toilets, to a Jabsco Twist & Lock Manual toilet. All "appears" well. No leaks, everything tight, new pipes, seacock outlet cleaned of residue. Test: water comes into bowl no problem. Pumping out IS the problem, it takes about 30 pumps as there appears to be little pressure to drive the water out.

Can anyone advise me please? Thanks.
 
sailorsmum said:
Hello, I seem to be spending all my time in the toilet - fitting it - can anyone help me get a life?

I have just swapped from a RM69 toilet, of which I have fitted 3 of these flimsy toilets, to a Jabsco Twist & Lock Manual toilet. All "appears" well. No leaks, everything tight, new pipes, seacock outlet cleaned of residue. Test: water comes into bowl no problem. Pumping out IS the problem, it takes about 30 pumps as there appears to be little pressure to drive the water out.

Can anyone advise me please? Thanks.
Click to expand...

is the jabsco new ??
if not its the valve under the "little" lever
 
sailorman said:
is the jabsco new ??
if not its the valve under the "little" lever
Click to expand...

The valve under the little lever doesn't affect pump-out, it only controls whether or not flushing water comes in.

I'd suggest checking that the joker valve and the base valve are properly installed and look as if they are sealing properly.
 
If the level in the bowl falls but then rises again as you pump suspect the base valve. Other wise suspect the joker valve.

Either problem can be eliminated by fitting a Lavac!
 
sailorsmum said:
Hello, I seem to be spending all my time in the toilet - fitting it - can anyone help me get a life?

I have just swapped from a RM69 toilet, of which I have fitted 3 of these flimsy toilets, to a Jabsco Twist & Lock Manual toilet. All "appears" well. No leaks, everything tight, new pipes, seacock outlet cleaned of residue. Test: water comes into bowl no problem. Pumping out IS the problem, it takes about 30 pumps as there appears to be little pressure to drive the water out.

Can anyone advise me please? Thanks.
Click to expand...

When you purchased the twist and lock, was it allready assembled or did you put it all together yourself?
 
VicS said:
If the level in the bowl falls but then rises again as you pump suspect the base valve. Other wise suspect the joker valve.

Either problem can be eliminated by fitting a Lavac!
Click to expand...

;)

attachment.gif
 
You may find that the top valve gasket is sticking. Remove the top valve assembly and try smearing the valve gasket with vaseline. If the previous toilet worked then, the only fault could be with either an airleak in the inlet pipework, or the top valve sticking. The Joker valve is only for waste exit, not for filling the bowl. However, a poor Joker valve will allow water to escape from the bowl, but is very uncommon on a new head...
 
jon711 said:
You may find that the top valve gasket is sticking. Remove the top valve assembly and try smearing the valve gasket with vaseline. If the previous toilet worked then, the only fault could be with either an airleak in the inlet pipework, or the top valve sticking. The Joker valve is only for waste exit, not for filling the bowl. However, a poor Joker valve will allow water to escape from the bowl, but is very uncommon on a new head...
Click to expand...

It's filling OK

It's not pumping out!
 
If the holding tank vent was blocked you'd feel a back pressure building up.

If the seacock was partly closed the pump would also feel as though it was pumping against a back pressure.

The original question implies that the pump can be operated with little or no resistance.

Joker valve or base valve. My money would be on the latter

#16

29090-3exp.jpg
 
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I support Vic's diagnosis but my money would be on the base valve instead. My experience is that not a lot can go wrong with the joker valve, other than it becoming fouled with calcium salts, clearly not an issue here. Whereas it's easy for the base valve to catch on something and not close, which sounds like it might be the problem here.

Key issue is what happens when pumping out. If after pumping a few strokes then stopping the bowl back-fills it's probably water in the discharge hose running back through the joker valve. If this doesn't happen it seems more likely to be the base valve.
 
vyv_cox said:
I support Vic's diagnosis but my money would be on the base valve instead.
Click to expand...


Sorry an error in my post. I meant the base valve. The last sentence should have read the "latter". ... now corrected

The reference to the part # that followed refers to the base valve
 
Must be a problem with the non return valves. Unfortunately another stripdown is required. If you bought a new Jabsco, have a look at the exploded view on the instructions and check that the valves are mounted facing the right way. If you haven't got the instructions, remember that the top (flap) valve lets water in and stops it going out, the bottom (joker and flap) let waste go out and prevents it going back into the bowl. I suspect that you have got a foreign body partially preventing the joker valve from closing or the base (flap) valve is sticking or upside down.
See this link http://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/ma...0-manual-twist-n-lock-toilet-compact-bowl.htm
 
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Gasket 21

Contrary to above advice you're most likely to find it's the rubber valve item 21 in the above diagram.

We had exactly this problem last year, and the rubber flap with the metal weight on it has a pressed on grip washer which had come off and was preventing the port from sealing. This was preventing suction when the handle was pumped, so the bowl wouldn't empty.

The giveaway is that the pump plunger feels effortless, like you're just pumping air, it just gurgles but doesn't do anything. It feels like it's lost its prime, and is air-locked.

Thankfully this is a much cleaner, easier and quicker problem to fix than the joker valve which I had feared was the problem.

Just remove the top screws and check the gasket is seating properly over the two ports. You have to be quite careful when reassembling. If necessary, replace the rubber flap valve / gasket.

Unfortunately Jabsco don't sell this rubber part as a single item, it only comes as part of a repair kit.

Just to clarify, one of the valves is the flush water, the other is the pump suction. The lever just blocks off the flush water to provide suction only when required.
 
Last edited:
Trundlebug said:
Contrary to above advice you're most likely to find it's the rubber valve item 21 in the above diagram.

We had exactly this problem last year, and the rubber flap with the metal weight on it has a pressed on grip washer which had come off and was preventing the port from sealing. This was preventing suction when the handle was pumped, so the bowl wouldn't empty.

The giveaway is that the pump plunger feels effortless, like you're just pumping air, it just gurgles but doesn't do anything. It feels like it's lost its prime, and is air-locked.

Thankfully this is a much cleaner, easier and quicker problem to fix than the joker valve which I had feared was the problem.

Just remove the top screws and check the gasket is seating properly over the two ports. You have to be quite careful when reassembling. If necessary, replace the rubber flap valve / gasket.

Unfortunately Jabsco don't sell this rubber part as a single item, it only comes as part of a repair kit.

Just to clarify, one of the valves is the flush water, the other is the pump suction. The lever just blocks off the flush water to provide suction only when required.
Click to expand...

The lever doesn't in any way control the pumpout suction. The pumpout system is constantly in operation, and is affected only by the sealing ability of the base valve, the joker valve and (to some extent) the piston. With a new toilet, the piston won't be worn, so it's logical to assume that the fault lies with the sealing of the base valve or the joker valve. If your piston was worn and wasn't sealing properly, it could have given the symptom you describe.
 
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