Jabsco Twist and Lock Toilet Part number 18 again!!!

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pcatterall

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The dam pump assembly is leaking again !! it seems to be the O ring which is fitted into part 18. On pumping water is forced past the ring and out of the top of the pump. It only leaks when pumping and not when the item is 'locked'.
The O ring is not seperate, it seems to be in a metal retaining cage. I believe that I once took the item to bits to see if I could replace the O ring.
I now have 2 spares packs complete except for part 18 and soon to have a third unless some ( wonderful) forumite can come up with a solution!!
 
All I can say is that I've never had a problem with Jabsco's leaking from the top of the pump. If the O ring is damaged, can't you just swap it for a new one? If it's not damaged, it probably just needs a good dose of silicon grease and then not overtightening.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
All I can say is that I've never had a problem with Jabsco's leaking from the top of the pump. If the O ring is damaged, can't you just swap it for a new one? If it's not damaged, it probably just needs a good dose of silicon grease and then not overtightening.

Richard
Click to expand...

The O ring inside the part seemed to be retained and not just swappable. Thing back it may not actually be an O ring but a seal compressed to the shaft with a spring and retained in a metal cage. The spring and cage seemed to get corroded and stop working.

So I guess you will have a spare part 18 available then?:encouragement:
 
Apart from the O ring it sounds as there is considerable pressure when pumping out, have you descaled or renewed you hoses? If not it would be worth doing when you repair the pump. A common problem is a build up of Calcium salts in the pipework which very quickly reduce the internal bore. It is caused by not flushing all the offending waste out of the pipework, on my last boat it took 33 pumps to completely evacuate the discharge pipe.

Looking at the parts on the Jabasco Spares list it does seem to be a separate O ring as part of a seal assembly, if you don't want to spend £5.65 then measure the O ring and purchase separately a few pence.

http://www.jabscoshop.com/spare-parts/default.aspx?code=29120-0000
 
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If memory serves, Jabsco recommend a minimum of seven strokes per meter of pipe. Having had a blockage years ago, we now pump a minimum of 40 strokes, and have had no further trouble. Our pump has never leaked either.
 
pcatterall said:
The dam pump assembly is leaking again !! it seems to be the O ring which is fitted into part 18. On pumping water is forced past the ring and out of the top of the pump. It only leaks when pumping and not when the item is 'locked'.
The O ring is not seperate, it seems to be in a metal retaining cage. I believe that I once took the item to bits to see if I could replace the O ring.
I now have 2 spares packs complete except for part 18 and soon to have a third unless some ( wonderful) forumite can come up with a solution!!
Click to expand...

The seal assembly , part 18, is available separately (£6.40) so you should not be amassing packs of parts you do not need.
Wot u bin buying? Complete service kits ?

Inspect the piston rod for any damage or accumulating deposits which may be damaging the seal.

If necessary the piston/rod/O-ring assembly is also available as a separate part, #29, but at a budget breaking price of £15.90

https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/marine-toilets/toilets/manual-toilets/
 
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pcatterall said:
The O ring inside the part seemed to be retained and not just swappable. Thing back it may not actually be an O ring but a seal compressed to the shaft with a spring and retained in a metal cage. The spring and cage seemed to get corroded and stop working.

So I guess you will have a spare part 18 available then?:encouragement:
Click to expand...

Why would I have any spare parts available when I've never had any problems with my Twist and Lock pumps? :)

As I've never heard of anyone else having this problem, I'm being inexorably drawn towards a particularly unpalatable conclusion. ;)

Richard
 
Not saying this is your problem, but years ago I thought I had a similar issue with the seal in the jabsco pump...turned out it was actually cracked there and not easily noticed. Likely caused by freezing previously. Just a thought.
 
When you’re changing the seal, don’t forget to follow the Jabsco recommendation and put a turn of tape round the thread on the shaft. Otherwise you risk damaging the o ring as you push the shaft through it. Ive found over the years that the seal needs replacing every three - four years as compared to the joker valve which needs changing most years.
 
RichardS said:
As I've never heard of anyone else having this problem, Richard
Click to expand...

You have now. With 6 - 7 months aboard, the stem seals are a frequent replacement on our two twist and locks, maybe every 12 - 18 months, despite smearing some silicone on the rods to lubricate. AS OP says, not an O ring, an embedded seal which can't be replaced.
 
Graham376 said:
You have now. With 6 - 7 months aboard, the stem seals are a frequent replacement on our two twist and locks, maybe every 12 - 18 months, despite smearing some silicone on the rods to lubricate. AS OP says, not an O ring, an embedded seal which can't be replaced.
Click to expand...

Yes, I assumed it was the small lip seal being discussed. I remember buying about six of these from BSL about 20 years ago. I think that six cost about 25% of the cost of the Jabsco part. BSL found them easily when I quoted the numbers written on the seal. I used to squeeze silicone grease inside the hollow part to cover the spring. They did start leaking after 2-3 years, about the same as the original parts.

Seals on my current Twist and Lock heads seem to last quite a bit longer. However, they can't be removed easily and I get Jabsco parts these days.
 
Graham376 said:
You have now. With 6 - 7 months aboard, the stem seals are a frequent replacement on our two twist and locks, maybe every 12 - 18 months, despite smearing some silicone on the rods to lubricate. AS OP says, not an O ring, an embedded seal which can't be replaced.
Click to expand...

Not an O ring but an embedded seal which can't be replaced .... but which are a frequent replacement on your two twist and locks. :)

Richard
 
duncan99210 said:
When you’re changing the seal, don’t forget to follow the Jabsco recommendation and put a turn of tape round the thread on the shaft. Otherwise you risk damaging the o ring as you push the shaft through it. Ive found over the years that the seal needs replacing every three - four years as compared to the joker valve which needs changing most years.
Click to expand...

I also use silicone tape when replacing the seal and also get about 3-4 years life.
 
VicS said:
The seal assembly , part 18, is available separately (£6.40) so you should not be amassing packs of parts you do not need.
Wot u bin buying? Complete service kits ?

Inspect the piston rod for any damage or accumulating deposits which may be damaging the seal.


Thanks Vic for the link, I will get that into my 'favourites'. I located the part and it was priced as you say, VAT and postage brought it up to £11 but still cheaper than the complete kit which I had been buying!
Pleased ( in a way !) to find some of the later posters had this same problem, I would like to locate the actual seal but don't want to damage the new one by removing to read the number and I guess the old one will be too rusty to read.
Thanks also for all the other good advice. Cheers.

If necessary the piston/rod/O-ring assembly is also available as a separate part, #29, but at a budget breaking price of £15.90

https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/marine-toilets/toilets/manual-toilets/
Click to expand...
 
With 3 Jabsco's to maintain over the last decade or so I have seen leaks from pretty much everywhere but am now fairly clued up about what starts and stops the leaks (at least for me).

Leaks from the top of the pump have happened in two way - firstly from the underside of the lip of the lid that contains the piston - this seems to happen 9 times out of 10 when I screw it back, and usually I find I have to loosen all the screws then slowly tighten each one in a different order to the first time then it's fine. If that doesn't work after a couple of goes I take it off again and check the rubber gasket is positioned right and try again.

The other, much more rare occurrence for me is when water squirts out of the top of the lid - from around the shaft. This has been cured on a couple of occasions by reapplying grease to the piston and cylinder (I always use winch grease as it lasts far longer than oil down the loo for stopping squeeking), a couple of times by replacing the top gasket where the metal discs were corroded or had growth that didn't polish off smoothly, and once by replacing the whole pump assembly.
 
RupertW said:
With 3 Jabsco's to maintain over the last decade or so I have seen leaks from pretty much everywhere but am now fairly clued up about what starts and stops the leaks (at least for me).

Leaks from the top of the pump have happened in two way - firstly from the underside of the lip of the lid that contains the piston - this seems to happen 9 times out of 10 when I screw it back, and usually I find I have to loosen all the screws then slowly tighten each one in a different order to the first time then it's fine. If that doesn't work after a couple of goes I take it off again and check the rubber gasket is positioned right and try again.

The other, much more rare occurrence for me is when water squirts out of the top of the lid - from around the shaft. This has been cured on a couple of occasions by reapplying grease to the piston and cylinder (I always use winch grease as it lasts far longer than oil down the loo for stopping squeeking), a couple of times by replacing the top gasket where the metal discs were corroded or had growth that didn't polish off smoothly, and once by replacing the whole pump assembly.
Click to expand...

yes to both these leak types. This time it is from round the shaft hole. We use best virgin down the loo but I will try the grease on shaft method as well. Thanks
 
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