Jabsco toilet not flushing

Another One

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I wish my first post could be about something other than a toilet problem.

Whilst out on the Medway on Wednesday the Jabsco manual toilet stopped drawing in seawater and hence stopped flushing. It had worked fine up until then. So I looked online and found a Jabsco video, which said that I needed to replace the gasket. I installed a new gasket and spring today but still no flush water and no pressure on the upstroke. I've checked back down the pipes, disconnected the hose from the pump to try to induce a siphon; disconnected the hose from the seacock and then turned on the seacock to confirm that water flows - put it all back together but still no seawater coming to the pump. What else can I try?
 

johnalison

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A Jabso toilet is a pretty simple affair and should just work. One of the common reasons for failure to pump, in the absence of a blockage, is a 'lazy' flap valve. Is can happen if the pump has been left in the 'dry' position for a long time. Sometimes vigorous pumping will cure it, otherwise it calls for a replacement with a service kit.

Congratulations on plumbing the depths in your first post. Start as you mean to go along, I say.
 

john_q

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Have you tried pulling the piston out and greasing it with silicone grease or vaseline? That's usually the bit that let's you down. It simple unscrews from the top of the cylinder so a two minute job.

Richard
I have found you just need to put a blob of Vaseline in the bowl and pump it a few times, if you take the top of the pump off too often you ruin the gasket
 

RichardS

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I have found you just need to put a blob of Vaseline in the bowl and pump it a few times, if you take the top of the pump off too often you ruin the gasket
The piston seal is just an O-ring which slides into a plastic tube which has another O-ring at the top. From memory, the tube is even chamfered at the top to make it easy to insert the piston. I'm not sure how one could ruin it? :unsure:

Richard
 

RichardS

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The gasket thingy I am referring to is the gasket under the 6 screws that hold the to of the pump on.

In the Jabsco manual it is No 21 TOP VALVE GASKET part No 1 29042-0000
Ah, I see ...... but I don't understand what that has got to do with removing and re-greasing the piston?

You just undo the large (22mm / 24mm?) nut at the top.

Richard
 
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Hoolie

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If you take the top off you should check there's nothing jammed in the flap valves. We had a similar problem due to the retaining clip on the weighted flap coming adrift - too vigorous pumping (not by me I hasten to add). It was an easy job to re-attach it and all was well.

ps It's worth checking as it is a lot cheaper than a new pump assembly. And don't worry about the gasket, they are pretty robust if you're careful
 
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Another One

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Thank you all for your help. Yes, I have already removed the top of the pump, replaced the top valve gasket and spring but still no flush water even after pumping the handle slowly 60 times. I'll probably go to the boat for this afternoon's tide and try vaseline on the piston - it did sound a bit dry when I was pumping..

If that doesn't work, it's a new pump and flushing with buckets of seawater until I can install it. I'd rather be sailing than fixing a toilet
 

mikegunn

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I see that you’ve confirmed that water can enter the seacock freely and presumably you’ve also checked that the inlet pipe from the seacock to pump is unblocked. May I suggest that you move the pump’s lever to its ”fill” position and determine whether there is a difference in pumping effort needed when the inlet seacock is open and closed. There should be a big difference. Indeed, with the seacock closed it should be almost impossible to stroke the pump. If the pump can be pumped it would suggest that air is getting in to the system. Prime suspect would be an anti-syphon valve at the top of the inlet loop. It may be jammed open or even missing. They have been known to be sucked in when the operator has forgotten to open the inlet seacock prior to pumping. Failing that there are really only two more areas of concern. Firstly the inlet valve under the cover. Weed or debris sucked in can hold it open. Secondly a damaged ”O” ring around the pump’s piston. But again, I see you’ve sensibly already checked those items. I still think it’s worth determining the reason for the problem before changing parts. Then we can all learn from your experience.
Mike.
 

Leighb

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The OP doesn’t say whether the plump out side works, i.e. does it empty the bowl?
We had a not dissimilar problem last weekend. We had noticed that the pump was leaking slightly from the forward edge where the top is screwed down to the pump body. It was operating perfectly well apart from that. I undid the 6 screws that secure the valve cover, noticing that 2 were loose and did not come out when unscrewing. When I lifted the cover I could see that the offending screws had broken the pillars to which they attach and was the likely cause of the leak. Having reassembled it I found that just like the OP it would not draw in any seawater whatever I tried. Fortunately the empty bowl system worked and we were able to use fresh water from the sink to flush!
I bought a new pump assembly and fitted it this morning. It immediately worked perfectly thank goodness.
I have brought the old pump home, and when operating the piston there is no suction at the inlet pipe, clearly taking the top off and refitting caused an air leak which disabled the suction. The gasket and valves look fine as does the spring.
Perhaps the OP may have not fitted the valve cover back exactly right so that it no longer seals?
 

mikegunn

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Have you tried pulling the piston out and greasing it with silicone grease or vaseline? That's usually the bit that let's you down. It simple unscrews from the top of the cylinder so a two minute job.

Richard
I’ve learnt something! I didn’t realise that the piston could be accessed that way. So, if one is too vigorous doing the twist ’n lock thing the whole thing comes off in your hand! Is that how you discovered it ? ?
Mike
 

RichardS

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I’ve learnt something! I didn’t realise that the piston could be accessed that way. So, if one is too vigorous doing the twist ’n lock thing the whole thing comes off in your hand! Is that how you discovered it ? ?
Mike
It's true about the Twist and Lock ..... you don't even need a spanner. Just keep turning the T & L and the piston comes out. In my case, I replaced the two non T & L's with the T & L type a couple of years ago so I needed the 22/24mm spanner with the old type as they had just a plastic nut. It's another reason for installing T & Ls. :)

Richard
 
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