Is this the Carburettor?

[Adetheheat]

Stupid question but I'm just learning - is the part of the engine highlighted in red the carburettor - it seems to have fuel and air going into it so by deduction hopefully I'm right.

 

[Grumpydev]

Yep

 

[Bouba]

I would say yes

 

[Adetheheat]

Thanks.
I need to ask another question. How do the pros actually get these things out to service them? The screws are in impossible to reach places - I managed to undo about 3 but the rest are impossible with a screwdriver

 

[Bouba]

Thanks.
I need to ask another question. How do the pros actually get these things out to service them? The screws are in impossible to reach places - I managed to undo about 3 but the rest are impossible with a screwdriver

If it’s difficult try a spray can of carb cleaner as your first line of defense

 

[Alicatt]

Thanks.
I need to ask another question. How do the pros actually get these things out to service them? The screws are in impossible to reach places - I managed to undo about 3 but the rest are impossible with a screwdriver

For awkward small spaces I have a "Z" shaped double ended screwdriver, both plain and cross point, a pain to use but works in smaller spaces than you can get a small ratchet in to, also have a couple of different flexible drives from Teng Tools that are good in tight places

 

[Channel Sailor]

Maybe it is intended to remove the carb off the engine first, them one can get access to all the screws.

 

[Portofino]

Thanks.
I need to ask another question. How do the pros actually get these things out to service them? The screws are in impossible to reach places - I managed to undo about 3 but the rest are impossible with a screwdriver

Should just be 4 bolts 13 mm .
2 on the air filter ( I can see one ) and another two on the tiny induction manifold at the cylinder head side .

Any tiny screws in hard to reach places like access underneath- will be the float bowl retaining screws .

You gonna need compressed air and ideally a ultrasonic bath to clean it up when disassembled.
In the bath I find acetone removes all varnish.Resit the temptation to poke fine wire down the jet(s)
Get your self a rebuild kit , new gaskets before embarking on diss assembly. With 2 strokes the air / fuel ratios are critical and any leaks will be very detrimental, as will distorted jets .

Take a note ( a pic ) of the serclip position on the needle .There will be three grooves it needs to reassembled as it came out .

Have you cleaned up / replaced that inline filter ?

 

[Boathook]

My yamaha malta has 2 bolts holding it in place. Remove the carb and then all the tiny screws are easy to get at. What running problems does the engine have before you take it to bits.

 

[snowbird30ds]

Any brass screws on the side be wary before removing as one is likely an air screw and adjustable, first check if it moves inwards and if it does count how many turns before it GENTLY comes to a stop, then you can remove but there can be a small spring behind which is easy to lose.
Take the whole carb off before working on it.

 

[tico]

Looks similar to the generic 2-2.5hp outboards.
Remove the choke knob - small screw in the side of the knob
Remove the throttle knob- small screw under knob
Remove 2x long screws that retain the fascia
Remove the fascia
disconnect the fuel pipe (looks like youve done this already)
loosen the clamp bolt holding the carburettor to the inlet
Remove the carb with a twisting motion.

 

[BruceK]

Thanks.
I need to ask another question. How do the pros actually get these things out to service them? The screws are in impossible to reach places - I managed to undo about 3 but the rest are impossible with a screwdriver

The carb is only held in by the clamp to the intake manifold. The carb has 2 screws to take the float bowl off and 1 to drain. Thats it. To remove the crab loosen the two M10 bolts to loosen the fuel tank. Then there will be two remaining m10 bolts for the pullstart. 2 screws to the front facia plate housing the throttle/ choke and 2 underneath securing side covers. Undo the bolt manifold clamb, remove the carb. Undo the float boul and romove the pin holding in the float needle and seat. remove the main jet and undo the air screw. The needle and seat is what normally jams because the needle corrodes but the rubber cone is still serviceable. Spray in carb cleaner or brake cleaner down all three holes and jet. Rinse wit 2 stroke mix and reassemble. Start on choke and throttle lever on high idle and reset the air screw one.5 turns out from closed. While in the water put it into gear while on high idle and adjust airscrew till you get highest revs and motor continuity. Adjust out 1/4 turn and you will be good for the season. Run on E5 only at 50:1

 

[Seastoke]

Don’t forget to change the petrol filter.

 

[Adetheheat]

Ok thanks

 

[Minerva]

Susuki dt2.2 per chance?

If so, instead of removing entirely you can remove the singular bolt on the bottom of the bowl to remove the bowl. From here you can stick a carb cleaner wire brush up the jet to give it a bit of a clean out whilst it remains in situ.

However, if its a new to you engine then putting the carb and jet through an ultrasonic cleaner may pay dividends.