is aryldyte okay for this small repair?

[FairweatherDave]

The search facility is not working for me so a direct question to the fibreglass bods here......... I am putting in some longer screws into the fibreglass of my 1977 Wayfarer on the forestay fitting (that has started to lift out ) and the recommendation is to put some "epoxy" in at the same time. I don't have any but of course have some aryldyte. Is that wrong? Any suggestions of other "glues/resins" I can purchase in small volumes. Many thanks for any advice. Dave

 

[VicS]

I have used Araldite to seal in self tapping screws that are only lightly loaded. In fact its one of the rare occasions I have used the rapid setting version
I not sure I would want to fasten a forestay fitting like that though

 

[Strathglass]

Araldite is not really gap filling as it is an adhesive rather than a filler.
If I was forced to use araldite for your task I would mix it with some silica powder or some high density filler powder into a thick paste. It would then have a chance of being strong enough for the task.

Iain

 

[PabloPicasso]

you can buy small amounts of epoxy in easy mix tubes. why risk forstay failure?

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks for the replies. The significantly longer screws longer will do the bulk of the work but I don't want to risk forestay failure either. Specific recommendations of an appropriate small volume of epoxy in easy mix tubes would be appreciated. Thanks in anticipation! Dave

 

[TQA]

Hey guys Araldite IS epoxy resin. rtfm

If the tapped hole is fibre glass then filling with Araldite and drilling a pilot hole will give a fixing at least as strong as the original. With the use of longer screws even stronger.

 

[DownWest]

1977 and screwed in? Is this on a wooden boat? Sounds like it, in which case araldite would be ok with longer screws. Need a small syringe to get it down the hole and poke it down with a match stick too. Araldite already has some filler in it, as it is more viscous than most of the resins I use.

 

[ostell]

1977 and screwed in? Is this on a wooden boat? Sounds like it, in which case araldite would be ok with longer screws. Need a small syringe to get it down the hole and poke it down with a match stick too. Araldite already has some filler in it, as it is more viscous than most of the resins I use.

Warm the araldite with a hot air gun or hair dryer (not too hot!) and it will flow like water into the gap. If a hole at the bottom then tape over.

 

[simonfraser]

that'd be ok, make sure the wood is dry.

 

[DownWest]

[QUOTE=FairweatherDave;I am putting in some longer screws into the fibreglass of my 1977 Wayfarer on the forestay fitting (that has started to lift out )

Duh!! Missed that first time round. It is GRP. Still, bit odd that the GRP is deep enough for longer screws.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks for the further advice all. The boat is definitely grp! From my research on the Wayfarer forum the fibreglass is indeed very thick in this place at the bow tip (apparently there is no possibility of putting a backing wooden block to screw into). A pilot hole for the longer screws will reveal all.

 

[VicS]

When you say screws, what sort of screws.

The description automatically conjures up a picture of wood screws or self tapping screws.

But do you mean machine screws

that can be threaded into tapped holes.​

 

[jonathanhsm]

forestay wayfarer

My forestay fitting on GRP Mark 2 wayfarer recently lifted out of deck. So I decided to bolt it through rather than screw it. What I did was drill holes in original screw holes right through foredeck fitting - pushed electric copper wire down each of three holes one at a time- fished it out with hooked stick into boat interior- araldited screw end of correct sized bolt onto wire ... pulled bolt up through hole - secured with mole grips or similar - then put on nut - and cut slot in bolt so I could secure it with screwdriver while tightening nut, er hope that all made sense! All very secure now

 

[FairweatherDave]

Hi Vic
First photo attempt here of one I extracted. It has a domed head not apparent in the pik.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13096&stc=1&d=1313363326
I think that makes it a self-tapper. Perhaps I should add that the screws I need to refit are into the horizontal plane (same as the foredeck surface) and the fitting bends over the tip of the bow and two further screws also hold the bow fitting on the front or leading edge of the boat (ie at 90 degrees to the others). These I am not touching. The two I am repacing are under the part of the bow fitting holding the genoa furling drum.
Hi Jonathon
The W forum normally advocates the use of a small child to get under the foredeck......... but I do follow your method. Not sure how I will proceed but probably the way I researched already on the W forum
cheers
Dave

 

[Neil_Y]

Epoxy

As others have said araldite is an epoxy, to thicken it (as in a vertical hole it will run out in a few minutes) you can also use talcum powder. We recommend araldite precission for bedding and preventing bolts vibrating loose on our shaft/prop products.

I have many fittings on an an I14 that are screwed into the fibre glass deck and take high loads, once they have become loose though it is usually better to also go one size large in fixing screw so that you get some bite into the fabric. If there is enough depth of resin/fabric to get a longer screw into that would work but I would guess the lay up (unless it has a wood block bonded in below the deck) would be less less than the length of the screw so a longer screw would not help. Small child, bolts, washers and nuts is the best solution.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Many thanks Neil. Reckon I now have enough info to do the job. Let's see how deep that fibreglass is!