Inverter Cut Out

Seah0rse

Seah0rse

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I have a, just out of guarantee....., WAECO 1500 watt pure sinewave inverter which, just into it's second season, cuts out after about 30 seconds of normal operation.

It does not matter if there is

1 No load
2 Low load (100 watt light bulb)
3 High load ( 1500 watt fan heater)
4 Over load (2000 watt immersion)

Switching off the power source and switching back on restores normal operation for 30 secs again...

I don't think it is temperature overload as the cooling fan comes on straight away in 4 above.

Power source is two 12v (in parallel) 275 amp Rolls deep cycle marine batteries which are quite new. The same symptoms apply with the engine running (100 amp alternator with 3 stage smart regulator) and if connected to shore power with fully charged batteries. So I don't think it's high or low voltage.

I have contacted WAECO twice now, who do not return my calls.

The problem is becomming urgent as SWMBO can't use her hair straightners for more than 30 secs at a time and takes most of the evening to get ready by which time it's closing time.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Get a new one who has naturally straight hair? :)

1500W is a big inverter are there any warning lights on the unit to indicate the nature of the fault? Any reset buttons?

These units tend to have several trips and interlocks such as overvoltage (230V and 12V), undervoltage (230V and 12V), overcurrent, over-temperature and so on.

Check with a digital meter the incoming dc and the outgoing ac during the 30 seconds. That might give a clue. If you are handy you could take the cover off and make sure that fans and heatsinks are clean and not obstructed. Best to turn the incoming dc power off, both the 12V and 230V are dangerous on a big inverter like that. Do that first and get back if it doesn't sort you out.
 
Found this in the manual, but doesn't seem like it will help much...
It refers to the “Power Status” LED

Quick flashing Input voltage too high The inverter is only intended for the voltage indicated.
Slow flashing Input voltage too low The battery needs charging.
Check the cables and connections.
Occasional flashing
Overheating Switch off the inverter and the appliance.
Wait 5 to 10 minutes and switch the inverter on
again without any appliances.
Reduce the load and make sure the inverter has
better ventilation. Then switch the appliance back
on.
Constantly lit Short circuit or
reversed polarity
Excessive load
Switch off the inverter and remove the appliance.
Then switch the inverter back on without the appliance.
If no excessive load is now shown, then
there is a short circuit in the appliance or the total
load was higher than the power specified on the
data sheet.
Check the cables and connections.
 
Thanks for interest Manuel

Oh yes, had cover off!! but nothing obvious to me. No reset buttons. Attempted a bit of a clean with a soft brush.

The input led is green constant

The status led is slow flash green 30 secs then goes out.

The input led remains green constant after the status led goes out.

The S1 dip switch is on, remainder off.

On power up, one beep followed by a second after a moment or two.

On power down, one beep.

Any help?
 
Ahh, one thing I should confess to. My initial installation was in the engine room - bit damp as my rig is on old wooden boat and the on/off switch corroded and would not work. So I bypassed it and switch on/off from a battery supply switch.
 
Seah0rse said:
Ahh, one thing I should confess to. My initial installation was in the engine room - bit damp as my rig is on old wooden boat and the on/off switch corroded and would not work. So I bypassed it and switch on/off from a battery supply switch.
Click to expand...

The website describes it as microprocessor controlled.
I suspect, that in the damp environment, you have corrosion of a circuit and it's probably dead.
You may be lucky and just have a dry solder joint, but it may be difficult to locate.
If it's out of warranty, you could have a poke around with a soldering iron.
 
seamaster30 said:
The website describes it as microprocessor controlled.
I suspect, that in the damp environment, you have corrosion of a circuit and it's probably dead.
You may be lucky and just have a dry solder joint, but it may be difficult to locate.
If it's out of warranty, you could have a poke around with a soldering iron.
Click to expand...



Thanks Seamaster but, if that is the case, I presume it would not work at all?
 
Seah0rse said:
Thanks Seamaster but, if that is the case, I presume it would not work at all?
Click to expand...


Well to all intents and purposes it is :)
What I meant with the first part is that you are unlikely to fix it.
The second part re: dry soldered joint still holds and would fit your symptoms well.
 
Seah0rse said:
Ahh, one thing I should confess to. My initial installation was in the engine room - bit damp as my rig is on old wooden boat and the on/off switch corroded and would not work. So I bypassed it and switch on/off from a battery supply switch.
Click to expand...
I don't have access to the manual (just the Manuela :) )

From seamaster's post above the slow flash indicates low input volts. Is that the same indicator we are talking about? Have you got the manual? You might find that there is corrosion around the wiring to the input terminals to the inverter itself. You could take those off, check for soundness, including the terminals which can corrode and replace. It this is stuck in the corner of a damp engine room I would be inclined to get it out, give it a good visual check, clean, varnish, and test it 'on the bench' in the saloon and then find a better place to install it. My money is on it being OK and these are expensive bits of kit so worth working on it.
 
If it's any help the manual is here

http://www.waeco.com/tmp/MSP702_MSP2524_EB_10s_06.pdf

It doesn't seem to cover the symptoms you describe though :(

Try changing the DIP switches to see if that makes a difference.

Could you have a faulty battery, O/C cell maybe. You could try a different power source, someone elses' battery bank with a jump lead?

My guess is, if it will produce power for a short time, then there's an intermittent fault in the control system.
As others have said possibly corrosion under the PCB components or a dry joint.

I can't find a circuit for it on t'internet which makes it harder :(

If you need a portable 'scope I've a couple of spare ones possibly for sale :D

Be VERY careful, it's as dangerous as a domestic installation with its cover off, probably more so in your damp engine bay !!!
 
Thanks for that cozzykim

Batteries are in good nick but same fault occurs even when fully charged batteries are connected to charger connected to shore power

As you say, the problem is not specified in the manual.

I've brought it home now for a close inspection and an occasional prod, perhaps swear at it again, over the W/E and I'll pester Waeco next week 'till I get an answer.

Seah0rse
 
Seah0rse said:
The input light is constant green before and after cut out so I dont think it's the volts going in, its the volts comming out that are in short supply!
Click to expand...

I was thinking there's a remote chance that there's an instantaneous partial O/C in the supply that the indicator is too slow to pick up, easy to eliminate with temporary cable/different batteries.

Just to confirm - It is a 24V not 12v unit ? You said your batts are in series so you need two at home.
 
Sorry, that was my mistake Cozzykim. It's 12 volt, the two batteries are in parallel. (just wanted to make sure everyone was paying attention!) Would you elaborate your previous post please....
 
Seah0rse said:
I try to avoid gas on board
Click to expand...

Me too, but one sometimes just slips out :eek:

Sorry, that was my mistake Cozzykim. It's 12 volt, the two batteries are in parallel. (just wanted to make sure everyone was paying attention!) Would you elaborate your previous post please....
Click to expand...

I was suggesting that as the unit is microprocessor controlled it may be able to "see" instantaneous glitches or open circuits in the 12V supply.
This could even be dirty contacts on your battery switch.

It will have very sensitive monitoring circuits to protect its power output semiconductor devices and may be shutting down.
The LED monitor may not reflect the status fast enough for you to see.

This is only a remote possibility and, as you have suggested, taking the unit home and using a different cable and battery will eliminate this.

Kim
 
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