Interior paint and linings

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nigelclough51

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So thinking of painting the inside of our grp Lysander but it's as rough as a butchers so any ideas please, also linings and insulation we haven't a clue so anyone please help.
Best regards Nigel and Paula.
Lysander 17.
 
I can second the Van Liner .... I am replacing the foam backed vinyl in my SR25 ..... FB Vinyl was commonly used in the 70 - 80's to finish off GRP interiors. It insulated, was easy to wipe ..... but eventually the foam breaks down and it just sags !!

The Van Liner can be bought as a 'kit' which includes the High Temp Resistant spray adhesive as well as the roll of liner. Various colours - not just the typical 'Van Grey' ! What I really like about it ... unlike the Vinyl - its not 'cold' .....

I thought it would be a difficult job - but in fact it was easier than I expected. The main things to consider :

1. Good ventilation as the adhesive has strong solvent.
2. Moderate ambient weather temperature - 15C or above
3. Clean surface to apply to ... in my case with ex Vinyl - I could not remove all old glue .... but the Van Liner covered and glued fine.

I have a 5m weekender 2 berth boat that has never had any lining inside .... once I finish my main boat - I shall be using the remaining Liner to fit her out.

Ok - next : What Paint ?

I am a great believer in Vinyl Emulsion - the stuff you paint Bathroom walls with. Its waterproof .... hard wearing .... dries quickly .... very little smell in use / for time after. You can have it mixed to colour you want ... and have a Code to mix more later if needed.
For woodwork of course - then a good single pot Poly Varnish on top of whatever stain you need.
 
We've done quite a lot of trimming on Tolerance, if you click on the blog link you'll see some of the work. As Refueler has stated, van lining is a very quick, an easy job to do and the results are impressive, the vinyl lining we use is Nautolex sourced from CJ Marine.
 
After years of vinyl and what I call 'Tent syndrome' .... in the colder months - you touch it and its cold ... condensation then forms where touched ....

The van lining has none of that .... its comfortable and not cold to touch ...
 
"After years of vinyl and what I call 'Tent syndrome' .... in the colder months - you touch it and its cold ... condensation then forms where touched .... "

Thankfully I don't experience that :cool:
 
Refueler said:
I can second the Van Liner .... I am replacing the foam backed vinyl in my SR25 ..... FB Vinyl was commonly used in the 70 - 80's to finish off GRP interiors. It insulated, was easy to wipe ..... but eventually the foam breaks down and it just sags !!

The Van Liner can be bought as a 'kit' which includes the High Temp Resistant spray adhesive as well as the roll of liner. Various colours - not just the typical 'Van Grey' ! What I really like about it ... unlike the Vinyl - its not 'cold' .....

I thought it would be a difficult job - but in fact it was easier than I expected. The main things to consider :

1. Good ventilation as the adhesive has strong solvent.
2. Moderate ambient weather temperature - 15C or above
3. Clean surface to apply to ... in my case with ex Vinyl - I could not remove all old glue .... but the Van Liner covered and glued fine.

I have a 5m weekender 2 berth boat that has never had any lining inside .... once I finish my main boat - I shall be using the remaining Liner to fit her out.

Ok - next : What Paint ?

I am a great believer in Vinyl Emulsion - the stuff you paint Bathroom walls with. Its waterproof .... hard wearing .... dries quickly .... very little smell in use / for time after. You can have it mixed to colour you want ... and have a Code to mix more later if needed.
For woodwork of course - then a good single pot Poly Varnish on top of whatever stain you need.
Click to expand...
Did exactly this but used 6mm closed cell insulation to grp then van lining on top of that. Far easier than I thought it would be to fix up. Definitely ensure decent ventilation though (I would do this better if there's ever a next time).
 
arc1 said:
Did exactly this but used 6mm closed cell insulation to grp then van lining on top of that. Far easier than I thought it would be to fix up. Definitely ensure decent ventilation though (I would do this better if there's ever a next time).
Click to expand...

6mm - I have 6mm and 3mm (Depron sheets as used in Home Insulation and Model Aircraft building) ... I considered using 3mm before the Van Lining - but decided not to as it would conflict with my 'window frames' which basically trap lining edge.

Something to note ... careful on adhesive selection as it needs to be Foam Safe ... many adhesives - particularly spray have foam eating solvents etc.
 
Not all van liner is the same - see if you can get a stretchy type that is easier to form over curves. Also, if the inside suffers from condensation you can stick an insulating foam layer on first then van liner on top (which is what I did)
 
nigelclough51 said:
That good advice however will that insulate our grp Lysander?
Click to expand...
Most glassfibre yachts of the period of your Lysander were intended to be used during the usual sailing season of May to October. Insulation should not just cover the hull sides and deck, water can be also chill a boat as well, so underwater areas should also be insulated.

To be honest I do not think the van stretch carpet lining will have minimal insulation quality. If you think about house insulation to be effective, you are talking you need 150mm. Even using something like 50mm Kingspan will make a big inroad in the cabin space on the Lysander. Personally I would not bother with insulation, but spend the money on a simple heating system that will produce sufficient heat to get a temperature you feel is comfortable.
 
6mm closed cell foam and carpet lining has been highly effective in preventing condensation, is warm and dry to touch but probably has minimal actual insulation properties! As Concerto suggests, I use a diesel heater to provide warmth (mainly winter but sail in Scotland so occasionally summer as well!)
 
You aren't going to make a Lysander toasty inside for winter sailing by insulating, the best you can do is get it well enough insulated to reduce condensation and no matter how well insulated, you'll still get condensation when sleeping aboard on a cold night. Having said that, van carpeting will help and, importantly, it's warm to the touch, so it just makes things comfier. When fitting, good ventilation is essential, and don't plan on sleeping aboard for a couple of days, NO SMOKING or any sort of flame or spark - the glue solvent's likely to be inflammable, and wear a respirator suitable for such vapours.

I also lined the cabin lockers of my boat with closed cell foam - camping mats are a common source for this, and there are plenty of other ways of doing it. It won't completely stop condensation, but it will keep your kit from getting damp over a weekend. The only real answers are lots of ventilation or seal the boat tight and run a dehumidifier. Don't try and do both - you'll never dehumidify the atmosphere!
 
Problem with lining a lysander 17 is the bunks are small enough as it is.. I like the carpet idea though..

My old ply lysander (722) had to make do with varnish and a very warm sleeping bag..
I'd wake up in the morning arm out of the bag, reach across to the stove and light it, as the kettle warmed up I'd watch the ice melting down the insides of the windows..
 
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