INsulation/lining for my Albin Vega

webcraft

webcraft

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Fairrwinds is coming out of the water for a modest refit.

One item that badly needs doing is relining the wardrobe/wet locker in the forepeak and the forepeak itself. The original foam-backed headlining is all coming off/disintegrating in a dusty mess.

I was going to use self-adhesive van lining, but there is not a lot of insulation in that . . . . what about this stuff with teh carpety stuff on top?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-Blac...-Roll-High-Quality-Waterproof-UK/262418073209

s-l1600.jpg



- W
 
Last edited:
Funny you should ask, i am currently lining a couple of wardrobes myself. I'm using some double sided adhesive coated closed cell foam ; https://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/product/rw70-self-adhesive-closed-cell-foam-5mm-double-sided/

Not the cheapest, but as it's an arse of a job i'm more interested in it lasting for a long while, rather than saving a few quid. You can go over it with vinyl or even foam backed vinyl, so i image the carpet would work too. I'm going to go over mine with foam backed vinyl. It's certainly easier to work with than foam backed vinyl and contact adhesive.

I decided to template the areas i am doing, this stuff is really good for the job ; https://www.screwfix.com/p/erfurt-red-label-double-lining-paper-natural-560mm-x-20m/35426
 
Sandy said:
My for and aft cabin will need doing in the next few years. I am exploring using a closed cell sleeping mat material under the existing vinyl lining.

On the last boat I used some https://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/product/rw70-self-adhesive-closed-cell-foam-5mm-double-sided/ that was horrid to work with.
Click to expand...

Looks like we posted at the same time Sandy, curiously, i'm finding the Hawke House stuff OK to work with.

I made paper templates first, then cut the foam out and stuck it to the boat (heated it up with a hot air paint stripper).
 
PaulRainbow said:
Looks like we posted at the same time Sandy, curiously, i'm finding the Hawke House stuff OK to work with.

I made paper templates first, then cut the foam out and stuck it to the boat (heated it up with a hot air paint stripper).
Click to expand...
Let me know how you get on Paul. I struggled with getting the new lining on after the insulation layer. My current lining has lost its "foam" backing but is usable.

I am looking for something a bit thicker than 3mm as I have plans for some voyages north of Shetland in the future.
 
Sandy said:
Let me know how you get on Paul. I struggled with getting the new lining on after the insulation layer. My current lining has lost its "foam" backing but is usable.

I am looking for something a bit thicker than 3mm as I have plans for some voyages north of Shetland in the future.
Click to expand...

Will do Sandy. I've stuck the foam to half of the two wardrobes so far, progress a bit slow due to other jobs. I'm hoping the foam backed vinyl will stick well. One of my customers did the saloon on a 38ft Moody with it, and plain vinyl (no foam backing), looked good.
 
I have ordered a roll and will try it under the headlining of MaunaKea.

webcraft said:
.
Fairrwinds is coming out of the water for a modest refit.

One item that badly needs doing is relining the wardrobe/wet locker in the forepeak and the forepeak itself. The original foam-backed headlining is all coming off/disintegrating in a dusty mess.

I have just ordered a roll, I will try fitting it under the headlining of MaunaKea.

I was going to use self-adhesive van lining, but there is not a lot of insulation in that . . . . what about this stuff with teh carpety stuff on top?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-Blac...-Roll-High-Quality-Waterproof-UK/262418073209

s-l1600.jpg



- W
Click to expand...
 
PaulRainbow said:
Funny you should ask, i am currently lining a couple of wardrobes myself. I'm using some double sided adhesive coated closed cell foam ; https://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/product/rw70-self-adhesive-closed-cell-foam-5mm-double-sided/

Not the cheapest, but as it's an arse of a job i'm more interested in it lasting for a long while, rather than saving a few quid. You can go over it with vinyl or even foam backed vinyl, so i image the carpet would work too. I'm going to go over mine with foam backed vinyl. It's certainly easier to work with than foam backed vinyl and contact adhesive.

I decided to template the areas i am doing, this stuff is really good for the job ; https://www.screwfix.com/p/erfurt-red-label-double-lining-paper-natural-560mm-x-20m/35426
Click to expand...
Paul. I have a westerly ocean Lord. I have just about completed its second relining.

When I bought her 10 years ago she had been relined. But within a few years with Mediterranean heat most had gone to powder and were saging after 5 years.

I chose to do the repairs by vacuuming off the foam powder from the fibreglass and vynl.
The vynal cleans up easily and is totally reusable and saves templating everything again.
I chose to put the grey closed cell you mentioned on the initial areas before I left the UK. As soon as the med heat hit, all of it came down. So back to the drawing board.
I decided to use instead another white closed cell foam from Hawk house and used as the glue following experimentation Sticks like shit. It spreads easily using a sealant gun and combed spreader. But the tubes don't last forever.. 1 year max before it thickens.

Process.
Clean up surface with vacuum and a little wire brushing.
Cut foam to fit behind vynal. This does not need to be in one piece and it makes it easier to devide larger areas into 2. This won't be visible.
Spread sticks like shit over one surface and locate on fibre glass. Press on using a cloth and allow to take hold... 1 minute.... Clean any glue off at once with acetone.

Glue vynal back.. sometimes if you get the vynal totally off it is easier to spread glue on the vynal the offer up and press into place using a cloth. Don't use your fingers directly as that can cause ridging in the foam underneath.

After 10 years of med heat it's all perfect.

What did not work.
Expensive contact adhesive... all comes down in the heat. Horribly messy to apply and the fumes were awfull.

Pre glued foam ... all fell down.

We did not replace any vynal using this method.
 
I've used the 5mm or 6mm foil backed yoga mats to insulate much of my 10m sailing cruiser. Bought them on Ebay from suppliers in China and Burma. Still cant find anything cheaper per sq m wirh the same insulation potential.
I fitted out the saloon first. 2 layers under the deckheaď, one foil layer facing upwards to reflect heat from the summer sun, one layer down to retain heat. I also lined about half of the topsides to the waterline. I used high temperature resistant contact glue. Spray glue is convenient but expensive, brush on glue more cost effective but keep the cans warm to make it flow better and apply thinly and evenly.
As I hadn't insulated the forepeak I was able to make a rough test with my IR thermometer as well as more empirical impressions. In English winters a few years ago the insulation kept the saloon warmer than the forepeak and the foredeck showed much more heat leakage with the IR thermometer than the deck over the saloon.
In our Meditterranean summer just past, the foam kept the saloon significantly cooler than the outside temperature - 5 to 10 degrees or more cooler in the morning, though the heat usually found its way in by mid afternoon.
And right now, when we have 15 degrees or so temperatures overnight and 18 to 20 in the daytime, the saloon is always much cooler than the cockpit until I get kicked out of bed to put the fan heater on!
 
Oh, one thing about the foam mats is they burn easily and emit acrid black smoke. My boat is full of other very combustible foam, fabrics, wood, sails, etc so I think that I'll have choked long before the insulation catches alight (or the smoke and CO alarms have gone off). But its worth knowing this if you are looking at insulating your boat.
 
Chris_Robb said:
Paul. I have a westerly ocean Lord. I have just about completed its second relining.

When I bought her 10 years ago she had been relined. But within a few years with Mediterranean heat most had gone to powder and were saging after 5 years.

I chose to do the repairs by vacuuming off the foam powder from the fibreglass and vynl.
The vynal cleans up easily and is totally reusable and saves templating everything again.
I chose to put the grey closed cell you mentioned on the initial areas before I left the UK. As soon as the med heat hit, all of it came down. So back to the drawing board.
I decided to use instead another white closed cell foam from Hawk house and used as the glue following experimentation Sticks like shit. It spreads easily using a sealant gun and combed spreader. But the tubes don't last forever.. 1 year max before it thickens.

Process.
Clean up surface with vacuum and a little wire brushing.
Cut foam to fit behind vynal. This does not need to be in one piece and it makes it easier to devide larger areas into 2. This won't be visible.
Spread sticks like shit over one surface and locate on fibre glass. Press on using a cloth and allow to take hold... 1 minute.... Clean any glue off at once with acetone.

Glue vynal back.. sometimes if you get the vynal totally off it is easier to spread glue on the vynal the offer up and press into place using a cloth. Don't use your fingers directly as that can cause ridging in the foam underneath.

After 10 years of med heat it's all perfect.

What did not work.
Expensive contact adhesive... all comes down in the heat. Horribly messy to apply and the fumes were awfull.

Pre glued foam ... all fell down.

We did not replace any vynal using this method.
Click to expand...
Using Sticks Like Sh**t instead of contact adhesive. Very good tip, that, thanks. My contact glue hasn't failed yet, but I'm only 2 summers in the Med. I'll use your suggestion for my focsl and heads insulation project.
 
Chris_Robb said:
Paul. I have a westerly ocean Lord. I have just about completed its second relining.

When I bought her 10 years ago she had been relined. But within a few years with Mediterranean heat most had gone to powder and were saging after 5 years.

I chose to do the repairs by vacuuming off the foam powder from the fibreglass and vynl.
The vynal cleans up easily and is totally reusable and saves templating everything again.
I chose to put the grey closed cell you mentioned on the initial areas before I left the UK. As soon as the med heat hit, all of it came down. So back to the drawing board.
I decided to use instead another white closed cell foam from Hawk house and used as the glue following experimentation Sticks like shit. It spreads easily using a sealant gun and combed spreader. But the tubes don't last forever.. 1 year max before it thickens.

Process.
Clean up surface with vacuum and a little wire brushing.
Cut foam to fit behind vynal. This does not need to be in one piece and it makes it easier to devide larger areas into 2. This won't be visible.
Spread sticks like shit over one surface and locate on fibre glass. Press on using a cloth and allow to take hold... 1 minute.... Clean any glue off at once with acetone.

Glue vynal back.. sometimes if you get the vynal totally off it is easier to spread glue on the vynal the offer up and press into place using a cloth. Don't use your fingers directly as that can cause ridging in the foam underneath.

After 10 years of med heat it's all perfect.

What did not work.
Expensive contact adhesive... all comes down in the heat. Horribly messy to apply and the fumes were awfull.

Pre glued foam ... all fell down.

We did not replace any vynal using this method.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I finished the two wardrobes, but i do have some others to do, will try your method on those.(y)
 
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