Instruments turn off when starting engine having added extra battery,

AngusMcDoon said:
Most boats now are not set up as the circuit in #66 which is why most people don't have the problem. It's not a case of a common negative point that all boats have, it's a case of a common section of negative cable shared by both circuits, which most boats now don't have since the prevalence of VSR's.

Despite your cynicism the Bedouin Theory is a real effect, although I like everyone else agree that it may not be the cause of the OP's problem.
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Most boats are wired as per the schematic i posted earlier and don't have an issue when starting the engine.

This has been the case with bigger boats for decades. The vast majority of production boats are also wired like this.

If they were not, you would not be able to have a emergency parallel switch, unless it was double poled. You also cannot correctly install a battery monitor.
 
bedouin said:
QED. Pretty much everyone now realises you are wrong
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I am not wrong.

If wired as per my schematic there is not an issue, this is how virtually all boats are wired these days and have been so for a long time in many cases.
bedouin said:
however much we (now not just me but several others too) try to explain you don't get it and so you resort to insults. Behaviour most people grow out of by the time they get to secondary school. Perhaps if you were a little more open minded and realised that you don't in fact know it all you might learn something yourself.

Are you yet prepared to admit that what I said in my original post was 100% correct?
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Absolutely not, because correctly done there isn't a problem. If you have a problem with your own boat (a sample of one) you have something wrong with your setup.

As for insults, how about post #111 ?
 
PaulRainbow said:
Most boats are wired as per the schematic i posted earlier and don't have an issue when starting the engine.

This has been the case with bigger boats for decades. The vast majority of production boats are also wired like this.

If they were not, you would not be able to have a emergency parallel switch, unless it was double poled. You also cannot correctly install a battery monitor.
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I know and agree with all that. However, this statement of yours in #107...

#66 is no different, still cannot get a voltage drop on the domestic system, as there is no common positive.
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is not correct.
 
PaulRainbow said:
I am not wrong.

If wired as per my schematic there is not an issue, this is how virtually all boats are wired these days and have been so for a long time in many cases.

Absolutely not, because correctly done there isn't a problem. If you have a problem with your own boat (a sample of one) you have something wrong with your setup.

As for insults, how about post #111 ?
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Really - I refer you to your response to my original post that said

PaulRainbow said:
The -ve is common throughout, as it is on most boats, but that cannot cause a voltage drop if the engine battery and domestic batteries do not share +ve.
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I think (almost) everyone now agrees that is incorrect and that is what starting this whole sub thread.

Do you still stand by that post or do you now agree you were wrong?
 
bedouin said:
Really - I refer you to your response to my original post that said


I think (almost) everyone now agrees that is incorrect and that is what starting this whole sub thread.

Do you still stand by that post or do you now agree you were wrong?
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When you can get your own wiring sorted out so you can start your engine without causing significant voltage drop on your domestic circuits .......

I can start both of my 7 litre diesels without tripping any of my electronics, as can virtually all boat owners with a wiring setup as per my schematic. That includes all of the multi million ££££ motorboats with the same systems. The only people who have an issue are those with faults, incorrectly wired circuits or bodge merchants.
 
PaulRainbow said:
When you can get your own wiring sorted out so you can start your engine without causing significant voltage drop on your domestic circuits .......

I can start both of my 7 litre diesels without tripping any of my electronics, as can virtually all boat owners with a wiring setup as per my schematic. That includes all of the multi million ££££ motorboats with the same systems. The only people who have an issue are those with faults, incorrectly wired circuits or bodge merchants.
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:ROFLMAO:
You see you can't even answer a straight question but you resort to insults - and you are certainly incapable of admitting you got something wrong.
 
Boater Sam said:
You will never get him to admit an error, I tried and gave up, just stuck the arrogant know all onto ignore.
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The sad thing is that he does seem to know a lot and make useful contributions. But if he can get something as simple as Ohms law wrong and can't admit when he's wrong then that calls into question the rest of his "expertise".

Your original post is just stating a different cause of the same voltage drop potential difference I mention but of course he didn't understand that either so of course you must be wrong :ROFLMAO:
 
sailor211 said:
the +ve is taken from one end of the bank and the -Ve as at the other end which I believe is correct, Where as previously it was +ve and -ve of the house batteries was connected to one battery and the second battery was connected +to + and -to -
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Just a thought, you haven't connected the batteries in series have you?
 
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