Installing Shore Power

Just a note of caution to all and a point that is never raised when discussing boat wiring. You should never use standard domestic wiring i.e. solid core twin and earth. Where vibration exists you must use flexible cored wiring. The solid core tends to fracture at screw terminals over time creating a potientially lethal fault.
That is why you will never see solid core wiring in any factory finished boat not to mention the BS and EC standard etc.etc.
Hope this helps.


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Re: I am no expert ....

Had a look at the site and that is what i was trying to point out.
Only difference is that i would not earth it through the engine(ground) on a glass/ wood boat.
I would go through a different through hull fitting.
You are only trying to get it to ground ie the water.
With a steel boat it will gererally always find a grounded part of the vessel so you just connect the earth to the hull near the isolator contact breaker panel.
You can then test it all with a multi meter to check it is actually grounding.
Wood boats can be very conductive due to damp conditions.
Seen all sorts of nasties with these.
Had one not long ago showing 6.5 volts through the wood!! to ground (the bank)
This had burnt holes in the stainless steel fuel tanks!

Joe

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Elastictrickery has always puzzled me, but......

I have just rewired the DC systems on my 41 year old river cruiser, as part of the restoration process. When I purchased the boat, it had 2 x 3 pin sockets in the saloon, fed from a 3 pin plug under the cockpit sole. I had never used this, but when I did the rewiring, I rewired these sockets to a 16 amp socket via an RCD. I have tested this but not used it, and all appears well. This was to enable me to run DVD/TV and fan heater and perhaps power tools, when power is available.(not often on the Broads). My point is, the boat has never had anodes fitted and has never shown any signs of any type of corrosion that I can find. If this mains power is never connected to any of the systems that are actually part of the vessel, and if I use it as stated, do I still need to fit Galvanic protection, and if so, why?

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