Installation of a VSR

I used a BEP VSR switch cluster for years without problem between a 220 Ah domestic bank and 60 Ah start batt. Simple, fit and forget. Just works. The only time I had an issue was when the start battery earth cable went high resistance - replaced it with tinned cable.
 
Couple of comments as I must admit to not reading every post, yes you can use a VSR if you want to keep 1,2,both, but you do have a clean power supply during engine starting.

In the diagram ( little complex ) it shows windlass, if operated with engine running it will power off the alternator via VSR, so watch cable sizing.

Brian
 
I have a VSR, and last year installed a twin bank PWM Solar controller to replace my single output Controller. The issue I have is that when I put load on the Domestics, then a significant current flows back through the controller to from the engine battery... The cable sizes are fine for the currents anticipated, but I've actually disconnected the engine battery from the controller as high current through smallish cable isn't something I want to countenance.
 
halcyon said:
Couple of comments as I must admit to not reading every post, yes you can use a VSR if you want to keep 1,2,both, but you do have a clean power supply during engine starting.

In the diagram ( little complex ) it shows windlass, if operated with engine running it will power off the alternator via VSR, so watch cable sizing.

Brian
Click to expand...

And if you read the Sterling bumpf, he warns about the problems of Back EMF destroying a VSR when the windlass/bow thruster starts up.

Is this a real issue or a sales pitch for his product?

Any thoughts?

thanks

Mark
 
Gladys said:
I have a VSR, and last year installed a twin bank PWM Solar controller to replace my single output Controller. The issue I have is that when I put load on the Domestics, then a significant current flows back through the controller to from the engine battery... The cable sizes are fine for the currents anticipated, but I've actually disconnected the engine battery from the controller as high current through smallish cable isn't something I want to countenance.
Click to expand...

Interesting, have the controllers got a power output feed option when the panels are working, turns off when the stop charging ?

The other thing is with the engine running /mains charger and the sun shining, you will have the regulators working, so same possible problem.


Brian
 
halcyon said:
Couple of comments as I must admit to not reading every post, yes you can use a VSR if you want to keep 1,2,both, but you do have a clean power supply during engine starting.

In the diagram ( little complex ) it shows windlass, if operated with engine running it will power off the alternator via VSR, so watch cable sizing.

Brian
Click to expand...

Apologies. I uploaded an old version of my diagram that still showed the feed to an anchor winch.
I also have a direct house bat. fused feed to "always on" loads such as bilge pump,fume alarm,etc-my choice.
Also-I chose to apply my alternator,solar panel & generator feeds to the Start Bat. - my choice. You can apply all your charging to house bank with minor changes to diagram.
Please check this version of diagram with no anchor winch: https://www.dropbox.com/s/l7fuzp9c457dgf5/Battery Bank Wiring & Switching.pdf?dl=0

I would go back & EDIT my previous post & replace the diagram but,for some reason,I am no longer allowed to EDIT my post. Is there a time limit on Editing??

Regarding anchor winch wiring-I don't have an anchor winch so I leave it to you folks to work out the best way to do it. Personally.I would prefer all loads to come off a main dist. panel.
 
Last edited:
Gladys said:
I have a VSR, and last year installed a twin bank PWM Solar controller to replace my single output Controller. The issue I have is that when I put load on the Domestics, then a significant current flows back through the controller to from the engine battery... The cable sizes are fine for the currents anticipated, but I've actually disconnected the engine battery from the controller as high current through smallish cable isn't something I want to countenance.
Click to expand...

Are you using a two way VSR?
 
Len Ingalls said:
Are you using a two way VSR?
Click to expand...

I don't know that it is, but can't find anything definite. It's a Tecsup SB12140 and was on the boat when I bought it... There are no indicator LED's, all I know is when the engine starts after about 10-12 sec you can hear the engine note change as the domestics start loading up the alternator
 
Gladys said:
I don't know that it is, but can't find anything definite. It's a Tecsup SB12140 and was on the boat when I bought it... There are no indicator LED's, all I know is when the engine starts after about 10-12 sec you can hear the engine note change as the domestics start loading up the alternator
Click to expand...

Makes no difference, if you have two regulators feeding the two banks, the one charging the engine will still bring in the VSR at the appropriate voltage. If you have a controlled output, fit a relay in VSR earth, then when the unit starts to charge it drops out VSR earth, stopping it working.

Brian
 
Len Ingalls said:
Really ridiculous!! I guess the powers that be never err. I'm not that perfect. / Len
Click to expand...

I agree absolutely ridiculous but its not uncommon on forums.

However you can always ask admin to edit an old post for you. If we all did that regularly they might even see how stupid it is at present.
 
Gladys said:
I have a VSR, and last year installed a twin bank PWM Solar controller to replace my single output Controller. The issue I have is that when I put load on the Domestics, then a significant current flows back through the controller to from the engine battery... The cable sizes are fine for the currents anticipated, but I've actually disconnected the engine battery from the controller as high current through smallish cable isn't something I want to countenance.
Click to expand...

If you have a one way VSR,then having a dual bank output solar controller would bridge the VSR,effectively bridging your 2 Bat banks-at least during daylight? If so-I would try disconnecting the Start Bat feed from solar controller.
The charge from solar ( & generator,shore charger,any source of charge) will be automatically sent to your Start Bat as soon as the House bank reaches 13.6 V. That is the purpose of a VSR.
I'm assuming you chose to wire things so that your house bank has priority & gets charged first.

In my case,I chose my Start Bat to get charged first ,as it is only used for starting & is normally fully charged meaning the VSR cuts in very quickly & bridges both banks together-my choice-either way works.
 
I don't know that it's so ridiculous. If you allow editing after replies have been made, it can make the thread hard to follow because the info that a new contributor is commenting has been changed, rendering their comment irrelevant. Can't say I'm all that bothered by it though either way.
VicS said:
I agree absolutely ridiculous but its not uncommon on forums.

However you can always ask admin to edit an old post for you. If we all did that regularly they might even see how stupid it is at present.
Click to expand...
 
halcyon said:
Makes no difference, if you have two regulators feeding the two banks, the one charging the engine will still bring in the VSR at the appropriate voltage. If you have a controlled output, fit a relay in VSR earth, then when the unit starts to charge it drops out VSR earth, stopping it working.

Brian
Click to expand...
Brian,

For some reason I overlooked this response... I only have a single dual bank solar regulator, and am not sure what you mean by " controlled output"
 
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