Inside surrounds for new hatches

dgadee

dgadee

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 Oct 2010
Messages
4,737
Visit site
I bought some hatches from China. Very good quality and much less than on offer here. These are to be fitted on the side of the coachroof. I will be replacing the vinyl headlining and need a surround for the window hatches after installation and recovering to make things look neat. I have cad drawings and can laser cut whatever, but not sure what material. Painted plywood (it's a Fulmar with plenty of wood already) held with hot glue or velcro? Or some form of plastic? Not sure whether just to go for aluminium again. Any ideas?
 
Not to sure on the material but I like to fit trim where it can be fairly easy to remove, so either heavy duty velcro or some screws.
Another option nowadays would be to 3D print the bits. Been quite a bit about this in the mobo section, though the sections you need may be to large for the domestic machines.

Edit. 3D Printers
 
Last edited:
Thanks for that link. I have used LibreCAD so could 3D print if I could find a way to import to 3D software and add the simple 3rd dimension. That would also be very useful to make trim for old Lewmar windows. Any suggestions?
 
dgadee said:
Thanks for that link. I have used LibreCAD so could 3D print if I could find a way to import to 3D software and add the simple 3rd dimension. That would also be very useful to make trim for old Lewmar windows. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Possibly best to add to the 3D printers thread. I've never tried CAD or 3D and have no idea of maximum size, so can't be any help !
 
You could stick wekd or MIG weld on the outside of the surround which would be on the outside of the frame thus close to the inside of the hatch inside frame.

If you have a lower flange this could be welded and the ground flat and polished after welding.

The inside of the frame between the hatch and the lower angel would be polished before welding to make it easier.

I have some hatches as shown when fitted to make some surround on the inside and this is making me think this is the way I will do mine
 
dgadee said:
… These are to be fitted on the side of the coachroof. I will be replacing the vinyl headlining and need a surround for the window hatches after installation and recovering to make things look neat. … plenty of wood already … held with hot glue …
Click to expand...

On my boat the inside part of the hatch flange (and windows) was just plain alloy, slotted into the GRP cut out. I too had new lining on the inside of the coach roof sides. I had enough teak to make a surround that was 15mm in width, with a 5mm undercut on the inside edge, running around the outside perimeter of the teak surround. With the window installed, the new headlining was trimmed to the inside size of the teak, the trim glued on, a the trim undercut overlapping the headlining. It made a neat finish. I can remove the window or hatch without ever removing the inside surround. This method may not be suitable for windows, hatches that need a surround to also hide the frame.

Initially I was going to cut out of teak faced ply and use iron on teak edging to cover the ply edges. I use this method on a few other places on the boat, works well. Robbin’s Timber supplied the lot.
 
dgadee said:
I can weld gas, mig and stick but not tig. I was speaking to owner of a big US boat with tube lifelines. He said he used stick welding to repair his tubing. Anyone stick welding 316?
Click to expand...
Yes….it’s not that difficult…off the top of my head I think you need to do it a little cooler (but that might be hotter)…I even did a tube once and it wasn’t too bad.
Obviously not as neat as TIG but a little practice on some scrap stainless will get it good
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top