I'm sure there must be a simple solution, but I'm struggling to find it!

Sounds great, thanks.
Tomorrow I will try to better understand how these slotted dowels things work, anyway.
Every day is a school day! :)
 
Here is an example; (although threaded, no need in this case)

https://www.google.com/search?q=sta...#imgdii=iXwr35_J1zLrWM:&imgrc=BC0idYX3fQnfpM:


effectively a s/s hollow tube. say M10 internal or evenM8. then drill at whatever the outer dia is. Circa 14mm . Bond this to the hole with CT1 , Sikaflex or other. even with teak and grip at say 25mm overall, with 3 holes all bonded, this will be secure. drop in the M10 or even M8 threaded bar or dowel through the three existing screw holes and 'presto' done.
Lift off when finished.
 
The two stainless handles look very substantial. So could you not fabricate a stout piece of wood or possibly several stainless bars that bridge over and clip to the stainless handles. The pivot drum then is secured to the centre of the bridge piece.

For the clamps I am thinking some hinged clips with rubber liners to avoid scratching the handles, with a simple thumbscrew on each to secure. I could sketch it for you.
 
If you always leave it on the dock is fixing the dock end and having wheels on the bathing platform an option? You could lay some rubber matting on the teak to give it some protection.
 
Richard.C said:
is fixing the dock end and having wheels on the bathing platform an option?
Click to expand...
Not really, 'cause as previously mentioned the "arrival point" of the passerelle on the swim platform has to be where the fixed handles are placed, which would get in the way of the wheels...
 
superheat6k said:
The two stainless handles look very substantial. So could you not fabricate a stout piece of wood or possibly several stainless bars that bridge over and clip to the stainless handles. The pivot drum then is secured to the centre of the bridge piece.

For the clamps I am thinking some hinged clips with rubber liners to avoid scratching the handles, with a simple thumbscrew on each to secure. I could sketch it for you.
Click to expand...
That's precisely along the lines of my initial thoughts.
The solution envisaged by lambohill is definitely a valid option, but in principle I would prefer something attached just to the handles.
I guess that would make for a less "clean" installation while the passerelle is being used, but I'd be happy to trade that for the untouched swim platform.
Btw, between a piece of wood and some steel bars, I'd rather go for the first, because there's an old school carpenter where the boat is stored who is a real artist, who can make just about anything out of wood - up to whole boats, which in fact he did build in the past.
I am a bit lost at the type of hinged clips to use though, and how they could work.
If you can sketch your idea and suggest some specific bits, I'm all ears, many thanks! :encouragement:
 
MapisM said:
Not sure of two things:
1) upside down hat, wazzat...? :rolleyes:
2) I don't know exactly how much thickness I've got under the surface to play with, before hitting the steel box of the sliding ladder. I would think just 10mm teak+5grp, or something like that.
I'd really prefer to avoid drilling any holes if at all possible, exploiting the existing handles also for securing the cylinder...
Click to expand...

You'll have enough thickness for what I describe. Upside down hat is a flanged deck socket as you'd use for chocks. I can't find a perfect picture but see below...
596BBF41-E517-4048-B73C-1D3A8CB31D80.jpg

3CAC7CF8-0363-4EA5-9145-7C3957E43AFF.jpg


Ok if you want to use the existing handles then just make a bridge in SS tube with two saddles that sit on the existing handles. Weld a bit of tube vertically in middle of bridge to accept the pin of your passerelle swivel. For the saddles you could get your fabricator to mod these http://www.makefast.com/acatalog/SPLIT_JAW_SLIDES_FOR_LARGER_TUBES.html and weld them in at each end of the bridge, so that the bridge ends clamp firm onto the existing handles using knobs like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KNURLED-...hash=item2a613beb9d:m:mmElfAFO54S6hgBIxLYhhTA but when removed there is no trace
 
Everyone seems to be making this far more complex than it needs to be. All you need is a hefty piece of wood that slides under the bathing ladder handles from the side, with a hole in the middle to match the passarelle pivot. Once the piece of wood is in place under the handles, screw two blocks down onto the piece of wood inside the bathing ladder handles to stop the wood from sliding sideways. Use wing bolts to screw the blocks down, with matching captive nuts in the piece of wood. No need to clamp anything, as the piece of wood can't go anywhere once the blocks are in place.

By using wing bolts you won't need any tools to fit it, or remove it.
 
Grubble said:
Everyone seems to be making this far more complex than it needs to be. All you need is a hefty piece of wood that slides under the bathing ladder handles from the side, with a hole in the middle to match the passarelle pivot. Once the piece of wood is in place under the handles, screw two blocks down onto the piece of wood inside the bathing ladder handles to stop the wood from sliding sideways. Use wing bolts to screw the blocks down, with matching captive nuts in the piece of wood. No need to clamp anything, as the piece of wood can't go anywhere once the blocks are in place.

By using wing bolts you won't need any tools to fit it, or remove it.
Click to expand...

V. Good!
and if I may simplify (?) this a bit more,
one piece of timber underneath protruding either side of the handles as Grubble suggests.
Then ONE piece of wood on top of it, which is just shy in width to the two ss handles (so substitute the two top pieces with one.
Drill them both at the sides, screw countersunk on the bottom of the lower piece, thread coming up, match and drop the next piece on top and use the wing nuts. It's not going anywhere for sure!

Now, dunno about drilling both or one or none for the passerele pivot, you may as well bolt with countersunks the massive SS piece on the top piece, depends on typical heights and if you want a substantial step (they way i suggest with the SS cylinder) or a fairly flat thing.
Beware, it's best to have a step step rather than having a half baked thing that ppl are more likely to trip on to especially if they're not familiar with boats and get confused with whites, wood, ss all mixed together.

cheers

V.
 
Many thanks everybody, that's some food for thought indeed.
I'll discuss that with my carpenter to see if he agrees, 'cause he's the kind of guy who wouldn't do anything if he doesn't...! :rolleyes:
Will post the final result in due course...
 
My concern would be accidentally ending up with excessive force on those hand rails and wrenching out those self tappers holding them in .
I would get a flush mount female or one on a bracket 90 degrees and through mount some where with bolts .
Like on the pic I linked .placed two a S steel one on the BP and white nylon one on the rear seat “ locker combing .

You see if the wheels ( for what ever reason ) on the shore end Jam ,don’t run ,etc then you get momentarily high forces transmitted down / along to the boat end fitting ,bearing in mind there’s 30 tons swinging about .
You see if you look back at the pic I used my telescopic davits to lift it a bit so at rest it was not touching the jetty , even though if had wheels .
 
Last edited:
Portofino said:
My concern would be accidentally ending up with excessive force on those hand rails and wrenching out those self tappers holding them in .
I would get a flush mount female or one on a bracket 90 degrees and through mount some where with bolts .
Like on the pic I linked .placed two a S steel one on the BP and white nylon one on the rear seat “ locker combing .

You see if the wheels ( for what ever reason ) on the shore end Jam ,don’t run ,etc then you get momentarily high forces transmitted down / along to the boat end fitting ,bearing in mind there’s 30 tons swinging about .
You see if you look back at the pic I used my telescopic davits to lift it a bit so at rest it was not touching the jetty , even though if had wheels .
Click to expand...

As long as the screws holding the mount for the passarelle are smaller than the screws holding the hand rails in place, any accidental excessive force wold rip the mount out of the wooden block, rather than the handles out of the deck.
 
vas said:
V. Good!
and if I may simplify (?) this a bit more,
one piece of timber underneath protruding either side of the handles as Grubble suggests.
Then ONE piece of wood on top of it, which is just shy in width to the two ss handles (so substitute the two top pieces with one.
Drill them both at the sides, screw countersunk on the bottom of the lower piece, thread coming up, match and drop the next piece on top and use the wing nuts. It's not going anywhere for sure!

Now, dunno about drilling both or one or none for the passerele pivot, you may as well bolt with countersunks the massive SS piece on the top piece, depends on typical heights and if you want a substantial step (they way i suggest with the SS cylinder) or a fairly flat thing.
Beware, it's best to have a step step rather than having a half baked thing that ppl are more likely to trip on to especially if they're not familiar with boats and get confused with whites, wood, ss all mixed together.

cheers

V.
Click to expand...

Yes, one piece of wood to hold it in place would be less fiddly than two and give a firmer mount. Note that the design would have to use long wing bolts that screw down into the lower block and not wing nuts that fit onto protruding threads that come up, otherwise it wouldn't be possible to slide the wooden block under the swim ladder handles.
 
Grubble said:
Yes, one piece of wood to hold it in place would be less fiddly than two and give a firmer mount. Note that the design would have to use long wing bolts that screw down into the lower block and not wing nuts that fit onto protruding threads that come up, otherwise it wouldn't be possible to slide the wooden block under the swim ladder handles.
Click to expand...

doh, of course, you'd have to use these fancy timber captive nuts that are thin with a flange and two or three pointy bits to hold onto the timber for this to work.

cheers

V.
 
Just going back to the OP. Mapis has an existing passarelle but owing to the height of the dock it is inconvenient to use. If I’ve understood that correctly, I had a similar issue with my Ferretti where the passarelle/crane went to the dock at a very steep, almost alarming angle. My solution was to have my son, as part of his GCSE, design a big wooden two step cabinet with a handrail that effectively raised the dock by 18inches reducing the angle of the passarelle. The lid of the steps opened and people put their shoes in it. It lived on the dock but require no mechanical adjustment, wing bolts or ingenious engineering solutions. Simples !
 
Your understanding is correct, and I've seen some sort of step cabinets adopted by several boats - particularly some superyachts, whose high elevation of cockpit floor implies that even if the passerelle is usually inside a retractable box under the transom door, it's still much higher than the dock.
But what made me considering the solution which is being discussed is that with my boat the dock, the swim platform and the cockpit are nicely at about the same level, therefore the manual passerelle, on top of avoiding the steep angle of the hydraulic one, gets rid also of the need to go up and down altogether - which is still there with the step cabinet, albeit possibly in a safer way...
 
Funny you should mention that, 'cause my current berth is similar to the one in your pic, hence with the dock about as high as the passerelle (+/- 10" or so, depending on tide).
But for reasons now irrelevant, I'm thinking to move to another nearby berth, where there's a floating dock about as high as the swim platform.
Btw, the fact that it's floating obviously means that the access path, on top of being "flatter", also stays constant. :encouragement:
 
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