I'm just about to commit to Copper Coat!?

Tim Good

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Ok so last time I antifouled was 2 years ago after three thin coats of cruiser uno. Been ok since then and now in the Canary Islands and barnacles are starting to take hold. I want something that is less polluting that antifoul and performs equally well. Cost is not an issue in this decision.

Having never used coppercoat, am I making the right decision for a boat that cruises 7-9 months of every year!
 
Definitely. Make sure it goes on as per manufacturers instructions, ideally by doing it yourself .....or keep a close eye on whoever does it for you. DON'T 'activate with sandpaper, just launch and forget (we've only pressure washed ours over 7 seasons)
 
Definitely. Make sure it goes on as per manufacturers instructions, ideally by doing it yourself .....or keep a close eye on whoever does it for you. DON'T 'activate with sandpaper, just launch and forget (we've only pressure washed ours over 7 seasons)

+1. In fact, when I posted photos here and suggested I would give abrade it, I was strongly advised by AMC that as the Coppercoat was clearly working and had attained a good green patina, I'd be a) wasting my time and b) shortening the lifespan of the coating. Mine has never been abraded and only pressure-washed once!
 
We had it done two winters ago. Very impressed after one season. There is a case for having it done professionally by someone with experience and good reviews.

Our boat seems to be going faster after having it done, presumably because the hull is now smooth with no cratering associated with old antifoul build-up.
 
I have abraded my Coppercoat every year with Scotchbrite pads but, apart from the first year, it has never worked properly and has been much worse than the conventional antifoul used previously. Coppercoat/AMC have now advised me that Scotchbrite pads are not nearly abrasive enough to activate the copper and that I must use a power sander and 100 grit disks. :ambivalence:

Richard
 
Another vote of confidence here, albeit in much colder waters (though still with lots of fouling). It needs to be scrubbed occasionally for good performance; two years in I haven't yet felt the need to abrade it beyond a firm brushing when cleaning the hull.
 
If you want something environmentally friendly I would go for the sonic antifouling. It is my understanding that it does not work great on all organisms so you would probably have to go under to clean by hand once in a while. In theory you would never again have to repaint.
 
If you want something environmentally friendly I would go for the sonic antifouling. It is my understanding that it does not work great on all organisms so you would probably have to go under to clean by hand once in a while. In theory you would never again have to repaint.

I suppose I've just never met anyone that has it or can vouch for it. Also might it scare off the dolphins or fish? That would be a big negative point. That said, if I knew it would work then I'd certainly go for it in terms of the eco option.
 
I am having it done this summer. The prices I was quoted in Devon were eyewaterly expensive, but found that Mylor in Cornwall were quoting what I was expecting to pay. They have another couple of advantages, spraying the stuff on and the work was being carried out in a shed.

Ask me in a years time. BTW I am expecting to wipe the boats bum twice a year once its done, but all that means is I'll dry against a wall and wash the hull down.
 
Go for it - we did ourselves twice.

We did our second round with CopperCoat last spring - the first go was done in 2006, so we got 12 seasons out of it. Seems a deal when you look at the price of antifoul. Also we were in Europe for some of the time and the problems working with antifoul in the yard made me happy that we had chosen the copper route.

Been in the water since last May and not moved since last September - bit sea weedy.
Off to France later this week and see if a brisk sail will remove it - if not it will be a lift and pressure wash when we get back.

When we were on a mud berth we did get a build up of mini limpets - but after a week or so out of the water the pressure washer brought them off
 
I suppose I've just never met anyone that has it or can vouch for it. Also might it scare off the dolphins or fish? That would be a big negative point. That said, if I knew it would work then I'd certainly go for it in terms of the eco option.

https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/testing-ultrasonic-antifouling

From what I have read fish are not affected by it at all. I have a local sailor that uses one of these systems and if really happy with it. I like the fact that the system just glues to the inside of the hull. The only downside I see is the electricity consumption at anchor but that can be overcome with solar power. Not really an issue when in harbour.
 
Another :encouragement: this is my second year. It’s never been abraded, was applied as instructed...to the letter, and works as advertised.
 
Another :encouragement: this is my second year. It’s never been abraded, was applied as instructed...to the letter, and works as advertised.

The letter of the official Coppercoat application instructions say:

Treated boats should have the fully cured Coppercoat surface lightly burnished with fine “wet and dry” paper or sanding-pad prior to immersion. This will expose the copper powder and increase the immediate potency of the anti-fouling. This process is particularly beneficial in areas of high fouling. (Tip – we recommend using 400-600 grade paper, “wet & dry”, or a Scotchbrite sanding pad and lightly rubbing the surface in a fashion similar to applying polish to a car bonnet.)

So "abrading" is necessary although AMC now say that Scotchbrite is not abrasive enough and a power sander is the way forward. :ambivalence:

Richard
 
The letter of the official Coppercoat application instructions say:

Treated boats should have the fully cured Coppercoat surface lightly burnished with fine “wet and dry” paper or sanding-pad prior to immersion. This will expose the copper powder and increase the immediate potency of the anti-fouling. This process is particularly beneficial in areas of high fouling. (Tip – we recommend using 400-600 grade paper, “wet & dry”, or a Scotchbrite sanding pad and lightly rubbing the surface in a fashion similar to applying polish to a car bonnet.)

So "abrading" is necessary although AMC now say that Scotchbrite is not abrasive enough and a power sander is the way forward. :ambivalence:

Richard
Mine has never been abraded in any way, and it works fine. And as I mentioned above, AMC have said that if it's working and has turned green, abrasion should be unecessary. We took GREAT care to ensure the copper was well suspended in the epoxy; one person in our team was stirring it right up to it being applied. I gather that if you don't do that, it settles out slightly and you can get excess epoxy on the surface, which then necessitates scouring/abrasion.
 
Mine has never been abraded in any way, and it works fine. And as I mentioned above, AMC have said that if it's working and has turned green, abrasion should be unecessary. We took GREAT care to ensure the copper was well suspended in the epoxy; one person in our team was stirring it right up to it being applied. I gather that if you don't do that, it settles out slightly and you can get excess epoxy on the surface, which then necessitates scouring/abrasion.
Coppercoat USA website says abrade. It doesnt say do it if you havent mixed properly before application
 
Coppercoat is very good, at least in cool UK waters, provided it stays on the boat. We had it applied professionally to our brand new last-but-one boat before it had ever been in the water and quite a lot of it fell off the following year. Fortunately, the yard that applied it accepted it as a warranty job - otherwise that would have been the most expensive anti-fouling we have ever paid for. It was applied in a covered, heated and air conditioned environment, so it really should have stayed on. If you have it professionally applied, check the terms of any warranty offered!
 
Coppercoat USA website says abrade. It doesnt say do it if you havent mixed properly before application

I understand that abrasion is more likely to be needed in warmer waters; the information I was given was in emails, not via their web-site, where they have to give advice that is appropriate to the most arduous conditions that may be encountered.
 
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