Ignition stays on

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faxi

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Hi,
I have a sterling power boat with Johnson evinrude outboard. We went to lakes yesterday and she ran perfectly fine for 3 hours but after filling fuel up we tried to start and ignition stayed on all the time even when took keys out. We had to disconnect battery to switch off.
Any ideas? What should I do
 
First thing to test is the ignition switch, if thats ok then the fault could be in the main harness to the engine, which engine is it two stroke or four stroke?
 
spannerman said:
First thing to test is the ignition switch, if thats ok then the fault could be in the main harness to the engine, which engine is it two stroke or four stroke?
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Will I find something on here that will show me how to test the ignition switch. Or best place to go to? Sorry not an expert.
 
tbh given the cost of an ignition switch for this can be had for under £50 I'd approach this like a computer technition. Buy a new switch off ebay, there are loads, and replace. If that doesn't work given your expertise I'd hunt for the electrical manual and troubleshoot or take in to a boat yard for repair. The initial £50 is a reasonable punt because chances are very favourable that's where the problem lies. i.e. the ignition is corroded and sticking on
 
My starboard Ford diesel does that. Charges fine when going but the ignition light is on with the key in off. I believe the problem is in the alternator and bought a replacement bit that bolts to the back of the alternator. Sadly job only half done before lockdown so can't finish it.
 
BruceK said:
tbh given the cost of an ignition switch for this can be had for under £50 I'd approach this like a computer technition. Buy a new switch off ebay, there are loads, and replace. If that doesn't work given your expertise I'd hunt for the electrical manual and troubleshoot or take in to a boat yard for repair. The initial £50 is a reasonable punt because chances are very favourable that's where the problem lies. i.e. the ignition is corroded and sticking on
Click to expand...
Where would I get an ignition switch from UK? It seems like they are all in the US
 
Simple £5 electrical tester will identify the fault and if the ignition switch is at fault, £45 cheaper tham Bruces suggestion.
 
faxi said:
Hi,
I have a sterling power boat with Johnson evinrude outboard. We went to lakes yesterday and she ran perfectly fine for 3 hours but after filling fuel up we tried to start and ignition stayed on all the time even when took keys out. We had to disconnect battery to switch off.
Any ideas? What should I do
Click to expand...

I would say almost certainly a defective keyswitch

BUT say what year model or what is the model number ( on a plate on the transom mounting bracket)
If I know the year or model number I should be able to find a wiring diagram

However if you can identify the terminals on the switch as B, A, S, C and two marked M ( B may be marked BAT , A may be marked ACC)

Note the connections to the switch carefully before disconnecting the wiring

In the Off position there should be continuity between the two marked M but no others.

In the On or run position there should be continuity between B and A only

In the start position there should be continuity between B, A and S

When the key is pressed in to activate the choke or primer while in the on or start position there should also be continuity between B and C


I expect you will find continuity between B and A even when in the off position ....... if so this is the cause of your problem .... fit a new switch.


Always quote the full model particulars including year and model number when asking questions or ordering parts.
 
Assassin said:
Simple £5 electrical tester will identify the fault and if the ignition switch is at fault, £45 cheaper tham Bruces suggestion.
Click to expand...

I just cut to the chase. If in any doubt change the ignition switch, or service and fix it andrun the chance of getingt caught out on the water when it plays up again. Even if it's just a lake I'd rather just settle for the 50 than the ignominy and hassle of being stranded. If the main cut out neutralises the system I cannot see it being anything other than the switch unless he has a major short in the system and that it should then be the one on the ignition wires.... it's the switch.
 
Regarding the meter and knowing how to use it.
Volts are like the height of a water tank, high pressure, low pressure etc.
Amps are the size of the pipe coming out of the bottom of the tank.
Resistance is how much the valve on the pipe at the bottom of the tank is open

Volts are measured ”across” the meter
Amp are measured “through“ the meter
Resistance is measured by “continuity“ ie measures resistance from one end of a piece of wire to the other
 
BruceK said:
I just cut to the chase. If in any doubt change the ignition switch, or service and fix it andrun the chance of getingt caught out on the water when it plays up again. Even if it's just a lake I'd rather just settle for the 50 than the ignominy and hassle of being stranded. If the main cut out neutralises the system I cannot see it being anything other than the switch unless he has a major short in the system and that it should then be the one on the ignition wires.... it's the switch.
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I know you did Bruce, just a slight wind up with a serious side, in all seriousness it comes down to diagnosis and if you test the switch and its fine it must be in the main loom and you MAY end up buying a component which is fine, but have a more serious problem which is ignored, just covering the bases.
 
VicS said:
I would say almost certainly a defective keyswitch

BUT say what year model or what is the model number ( on a plate on the transom mounting bracket)
If I know the year or model number I should be able to find a wiring diagram

However if you can identify the terminals on the switch as B, A, S, C and two marked M ( B may be marked BAT , A may be marked ACC)

Note the connections to the switch carefully before disconnecting the wiring

In the Off position there should be continuity between the two marked M but no others.

In the On or run position there should be continuity between B and A only

In the start position there should be continuity between B, A and S

When the key is pressed in to activate the choke or primer while in the on or start position there should also be continuity between B and C


I expect you will find continuity between B and A even when in the off position ....... if so this is the cause of your problem .... fit a new switch.


Always quote the full model particulars including year and model number when asking questions or ordering parts.
Click to expand...

What I always suggest is taking pictures before even stripping it Vic and you may (or may not) be surprised how many people don't, they say a picture says a 1000 words and so often it is true.
 
Model no. BJ60TLCCR
SER No. B 7666616
Belgium
I have taken switch out and took pictures of wires.
Where is best place to purchase. It would be nice to find someone local that can fit in West Yorkshire
 
I have received new switch and the letters are different as per picture attached. Have I been given wrong one?
 

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My friend who know a little about electric stuff disconnected the big red connector and as soon we put battery connection on the boat tried to start.
Then we disconnected the solenoid and it was ok. He said the solenoid is stuck. Does that make sense?
The new switch has an ‘I’ as an extra letter on back. Any light on that.
 
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