I just bought a Honda 2.3 outboard for the dinghy. A bit late, but any advice?

Mine is just about to start it’s 12th season.

Apart from leaving old fuel in over one winter it’s been great.

Run it dry when you leave it for a while, change the oil every couple of years, add a bit of grease and you’re off.

I’ve even started to like the sound, it’s sort of reassuring and workmanlike...

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To look on on the positive side, the centrifugal clutch is really handy for close-quarters boathandling as it disconnects the prop at low revs without the need to reach for a gear lever. With 360° rotation of the tiller arm, you can switch between no drive and a force in any direction, easily placing the dinghy exactly where you want it, and stationary, using just one hand. Most people may not care about that and are happy to apply hand force to a pontoon or mooring while tying up or departing, just as they use crew to snub a yacht’s boatspeed or haul it in - but the feature is an upside for the Honda.

Mine is just about to start it’s 12th season.

So’s mine, I assume still on the 3m contour line off SE Sark where I watched its last bubbles.
 
To look on on the positive side, the centrifugal clutch is really handy for close-quarters boathandling as it disconnects the prop at low revs without the need to reach for a gear lever. With 360° rotation of the tiller arm, you can switch between no drive and a force in any direction, easily placing the dinghy exactly where you want it, and stationary, using just one hand. Most people may not care about that and are happy to apply hand force to a pontoon or mooring while tying up or departing, just as they use crew to snub a yacht’s boatspeed or haul it in - but the feature is an upside for the Honda.
......

The centrifugal clutch on those little Hondas is snatchy and takes some learning. When I first bought ours, I was hopping round the marina like a rabbit - only two speeds - stopped and flat out!
 
As these engines are air cooled, do you still need to put them in water when you run them to empty the petrol?

I’m sure the manual tells you to do this because the exhaust exits below the waterline and will get very hot and melt the plastic parts around it.

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I've only had mine (bought 2nd hand) for 1 season but so far happy with it - thanks to steve66's help and improvement kits.
I have been using Aspen 4-stroke fuel, which claims a much longer shelf life.
Hideously expensive, but if you don't use much it offsets the fuel life issue.
I would be interested if someone more knowledgeable has experience with using this fuel.
For those who are interested, here's a link: https://aspenfuel.co.uk/find-out-more/faq-testimonials/


In case others are interested: Here is the content of an email response from the company that makes it:

From: Axel <his_email@aaoil.co.uk>


Hi Martin,

Thanks for writing to us.

Please see my following answers to your questions.

1. Aspen cans themselves would be suitable for carrying diesel although they only bear the correct markings for Aspen petrol on the sleeve.
2. Aspen usually has a lower RVP than petrol so will typically give off much less vapours which minimises the explosive risk. However, it is best to treat Aspen fuel with the exact same care you would if it was petrol you were using/storing.
3. Using Aspen is a great idea because it dramatically reduces the toxic emissions going into the water. Aspen also has a much greater shelf life so you are much less likely to encounter fuel related problems after storage.

Note: always use aspen 4 in outboards, if your engine requires a 2-stroke mix, mix aspen 4 with an outboard 2 stroke oil as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have been using normal fuel in your engine in the past, there is a good chance that the modern fuels will have damaged parts of the fuel system. When switching to aspen, it is a good idea to inspect that fuel lines are in good condition as aspen does not have the same swelling affect as regular petrol so if they are worn, they could start to leak.

Please let me know if you have any further questions


(and here is his reply to a follow-up question from me):


This only applies to water cooled engines which require a different 2-stroke oil than air cooled versions (marine outboards operate at a much lower temperature than garden machinery which the oil in Aspen 2 is designed for)

Mixing your own two stroke mix using Aspen 4 won't affect the shelf life. It is the fuel that goes off, not the oil.
 
I’m sure the manual tells you to do this because the exhaust exits below the waterline and will get very hot and melt the plastic parts around it.

______________________

The length of the exhaust is long so the damage would be mimimal at least, some years of manufacture have a plastic driveshaft bush with sleeves the rubber bung, this is the only plastic part in the vicinity of the exhaust and usually these disintegrate with usage . Running at tickover out of water will not harm the engines, but be careful there is no load on the prop and it will rev higher potentially causing the engine to blow
 
I've only had mine (bought 2nd hand) for 1 season but so far happy with it - thanks to steve66's help and improvement kits.
I have been using Aspen 4-stroke fuel, which claims a much longer shelf life.
Hideously expensive, but if you don't use much it offsets the fuel life issue.
I would be interested if someone more knowledgeable has experience with using this fuel.
For those who are interested, here's a link: https://aspenfuel.co.uk/find-out-more/faq-testimonials/


In case others are interested: Here is the content of an email response from the company that makes it:

From: Axel <his_email@aaoil.co.uk>


Hi Martin,

Thanks for writing to us.

Please see my following answers to your questions.

1. Aspen cans themselves would be suitable for carrying diesel although they only bear the correct markings for Aspen petrol on the sleeve.
2. Aspen usually has a lower RVP than petrol so will typically give off much less vapours which minimises the explosive risk. However, it is best to treat Aspen fuel with the exact same care you would if it was petrol you were using/storing.
3. Using Aspen is a great idea because it dramatically reduces the toxic emissions going into the water. Aspen also has a much greater shelf life so you are much less likely to encounter fuel related problems after storage.

Note: always use aspen 4 in outboards, if your engine requires a 2-stroke mix, mix aspen 4 with an outboard 2 stroke oil as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have been using normal fuel in your engine in the past, there is a good chance that the modern fuels will have damaged parts of the fuel system. When switching to aspen, it is a good idea to inspect that fuel lines are in good condition as aspen does not have the same swelling affect as regular petrol so if they are worn, they could start to leak.

Please let me know if you have any further questions


(and here is his reply to a follow-up question from me):


This only applies to water cooled engines which require a different 2-stroke oil than air cooled versions (marine outboards operate at a much lower temperature than garden machinery which the oil in Aspen 2 is designed for)

Mixing your own two stroke mix using Aspen 4 won't affect the shelf life. It is the fuel that goes off, not the oil.

Thanks! Suffolk based forumites may like to know that Elmers in Kesgrave stock it. I’ll get some.
 
I've only had mine (bought 2nd hand) for 1 season but so far happy with it - thanks to steve66's help and improvement kits.
I have been using Aspen 4-stroke fuel, which claims a much longer shelf life.
Hideously expensive, but if you don't use much it offsets the fuel life issue.
I would be interested if someone more knowledgeable has experience with using this fuel.
For those who are interested, here's a link: https://aspenfuel.co.uk/find-out-more/faq-testimonials/


In case others are interested: Here is the content of an email response from the company that makes it:

From: Axel <his_email@aaoil.co.uk>


Hi Martin,

Thanks for writing to us.

Please see my following answers to your questions.

1. Aspen cans themselves would be suitable for carrying diesel although they only bear the correct markings for Aspen petrol on the sleeve.
2. Aspen usually has a lower RVP than petrol so will typically give off much less vapours which minimises the explosive risk. However, it is best to treat Aspen fuel with the exact same care you would if it was petrol you were using/storing.
3. Using Aspen is a great idea because it dramatically reduces the toxic emissions going into the water. Aspen also has a much greater shelf life so you are much less likely to encounter fuel related problems after storage.

Note: always use aspen 4 in outboards, if your engine requires a 2-stroke mix, mix aspen 4 with an outboard 2 stroke oil as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have been using normal fuel in your engine in the past, there is a good chance that the modern fuels will have damaged parts of the fuel system. When switching to aspen, it is a good idea to inspect that fuel lines are in good condition as aspen does not have the same swelling affect as regular petrol so if they are worn, they could start to leak.

Please let me know if you have any further questions


(and here is his reply to a follow-up question from me):


This only applies to water cooled engines which require a different 2-stroke oil than air cooled versions (marine outboards operate at a much lower temperature than garden machinery which the oil in Aspen 2 is designed for)

Mixing your own two stroke mix using Aspen 4 won't affect the shelf life. It is the fuel that goes off, not the oil.
[/QUO
I personally haven't used Aspen or stabiliser but have heard good reviews. I find that draining the carb if not being used for a couple of weeks works for me. If you close the vent and fuel tap the fuel is air sealed and will not deteriorate inside the tank.
 
Fabulous little engine! Mine's taken/assisted me around Scotland a couple of times, this summer from Stornoway and up the Caley Canal without the inboard being operational. A few years ago across the Pentland Firth a couple of times on its own. Utterly reliable engine as long as the carb's run dry each time, and the oil's changed every year. Each winter as I lay it up, I give it a 'shower' and rub down with WD40. So far, it's showing no signs of weathering, let alone corrosion. Mine's been altered by having an extra extension, to give it a double long shaft extension; worth 15cms. extra depth off of the stern, which stops any cavitation off of my Folkboat.
 
Had my little Honda since they first came out, 17 yrs odd ?

Dunked twice still going well. Love the clutch where only possibly other outboards, Malta ?

Started a two stroke 4hp recently. Fired on second pull after two years non use. On the same fuel too, but
I used Honda conditioner additive when winterised . We also have are own Honda 2 guru in Steve66. Thanks mate .

I think my last Seagull had hieroglyphics on it.
 
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As these engines are air cooled, do you still need to put them in water when you run them to empty the petrol?
I agree with everyone that says you are not supposed to run them out of water but there is one fisherman here who starts his up on the top of the ramp half an hour before he launches. So the answer is yes but only for a short time for longevity’s sake. But there in lies the real benefit of this little motor and the reason I got one. They are the only ones you can easily launch from a beach when there is surf. All the other water cooled motors by the time you’ve started them the surf has dumped you back on the beach and you have to cut the engine and then get the dingy back in the water start the motor then get pushed back on the beach, ad infinitum.
Of course I swapped the Honda for an electric outboard. Once you’ve done that you never go back to petrol:)
 
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Of course I swapped the Honda for an electric outboard. Once you’ve done that you never go back to petrol:)

We need a new outboard - let the Honda go with the old boat. I did take a look at electric, but came to the conclusion that it really is not a realistic option at the moment. The Torqueedos with a built-in battery are incredibly expensive and have a short range. There are cheaper options that don't have the built-in battery, but I could not consider lugging a separate, heavy lead-acid battery around in the dinghy. It's going to be petrol for the next few years, at least. I had been hoping to save weight and make it easier to move the outboard around, but the 1.5hp Torqueedo seems to weigh almost as much as the 2.3hp Honda.
 
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