I dare: an anchor / windlass / chain thread

[vyv_cox]

This article might give you some ideas Windlass installation. I first did this in 2002, since when it has worked perfectly. What I do not mention in the article is that the electric motor has a carbon steel casing that rusts quite quickly. I painted it with Hammerite, not particularly effective. Next I greased it, messy and not easy to do. For quite a few years now it has been wrapped in Denso tape with polythene taped on top, as it is very sticky stuff to handle. Corrosion has been eliminated entirely.

 

[Tintin]

This article might give you some ideas Windlass installation. I first did this in 2002, since when it has worked perfectly. What I do not mention in the article is that the electric motor has a carbon steel casing that rusts quite quickly. I painted it with Hammerite, not particularly effective. Next I greased it, messy and not easy to do. For quite a few years now it has been wrapped in Denso tape with polythene taped on top, as it is very sticky stuff to handle. Corrosion has been eliminated entirely.

Thanks Vyv, the tip on denso tape is a good idea.

I can see from the pic that you basically reused the front part of the locker lid on top of the plywood.

Am gonna check tomorrow if I have the room to mount it forward in the lid rather than aft. It will solve the chain drop piling issue.

Thanks. C

 

[Tintin]

The problem with that boat is that it really was not designed with any provision to fit a windlass. If you don't want the windlass in the locker then my suggestion is to shorten the locker lid and fit the windlass onto a new and properly reinforced bridging piece glassed in to the rear of the locker opening. You can then mount this sort of windlass above deck level withe the chain dropping into the deepest part of the locker, and without having to cut into a cored deck. Lewmar Pro Series Windlass 1000: Horizontal Windlass Kit

Interesting that Lewmar call it a "1000" but it is actually 700w.

On windlass power, am thinking 1000w - thoughts anyone?

 

[Norman_E]

Thev only reason I suggested mounting it at the back of the locker was to provide enough space between bow roller and windlass for the shank of the anchor. It does mean that you would need to drop and raise the anchor with the lid closed, which is not ideal, or remove the lid entirely when anchoring. If you can find enough space to mount the windlass at the front of the locker so much the better. Its a long locker so I would not be much of a problem if you had to cut the lid in half and make a windlass mounting at the back of the front half. It is very useful, particularly with galvanised chain to be able to use a stout stick to knock the chain pile over and prevent it piling right up under the gypsy. If you have been pulling chain in by hand you will have spread it around the locker, windlasses do not do that.

EDIT: The windlass I linked is only 700 watts, but my Lofrans Tigress is an old 1000 watt model and it handles 10mm chain and a 27KG anchor on a 45 foot boat without problems so there is no reason why 700 watts will not be quite OK for 8mm chain and a lighter anchor.

 

[Neeves]

1000 watt should be fine, its what we used previously. When we optioned our new windlass we went for 1,000 watt, again, even though we are using 6mm chain and 8kg aluminium anchors. We went for 'redundancy'. Motors are all the same diameter, I think - but are just longer ass the wattage goes up. You might be constrained by space (we had plenty - and we'ed rather than pay a little bit extra and have power in hand)

Our Maxwell uses a Maxwell winch handle for manual retrieval, should the need arise. The winch handle fits into the top of the gypsy. inside the top of the gypsy is a standard slot, female orrifice, into which the square end of the winch handle fits - but there is a dome allen bolt inside the orifice which only sensible takes the Maxwell handle as the 'key' is recessed to take the dome of the alan bolt.,

On the same theme - you need room to use the winch handle and if you locate the windlass (and this will be true of other windlass) too far forward you will not have room to turn the handle, furling drums, stanchions may foul the swing of the handle (and its a standard short handle on a Maxwell). We've never had need to use the handle - but.....

You need to juggle, getting a decent fall for the chain to minimise towering Norman's point, have room to fit the motor (which sits offset to one side) having room to swing the handle and leaving room for you to complete servicing

Jonathan

 

[Tintin]

Thev only reason I suggested mounting it at the back of the locker was to provide enough space between bow roller and windlass for the shank of the anchor. It does mean that you would need to drop and raise the anchor with the lid closed, which is not ideal, or remove the lid entirely when anchoring. If you can find enough space to mount the windlass at the front of the locker so much the better. Its a long locker so I would not be much of a problem if you had to cut the lid in half and make a windlass mounting at the back of the front half. It is very useful, particularly with galvanised chain to be able to use a stout stick to knock the chain pile over and prevent it piling right up under the gypsy. If you have been pulling chain in by hand you will have spread it around the locker, windlasses do not do that.

EDIT: The windlass I linked is only 700 watts, but my Lofrans Tigress is an old 1000 watt model and it handles 10mm chain and a 27KG anchor on a 45 foot boat without problems so there is no reason why 700 watts will not be quite OK for 8mm chain and a lighter anchor.

Back of locker was my original thought, and yes cutting locker lids is gonna have to happen. Vyv's article made me think though, so a quick check tomorrow I think. Pros and cons to all options.

Neeves comment re winch handle room is a good point too.