Hurley 22: the front fell off

[viago]

Not entirely true. There are massive compression forces rearwards to the deck/hull.

i can see that but i would have thought not much more than his current arrangement which has survived pretty much intact since 1969 with those forces being absorbed by the deck and it's adhesion to the hull and none taken by the hull directly.
i'm not too good on physics although force vectors cant be that un-intuitive, but i bow to your technical understanding.

 

[LittleSister]

Personally I would do as Viago says and use epoxy for maximum strength and adhesion to the hull. A few years ago I had a similarish job to do on the rudder fittings on my stern. My supplier very strongly recommended epoxy. Bit of a bummer as you've just spent money on the polyester. Maybe your supplier would take the polyester back?

The same sort of quantities of epoxy will be over a £100 compared to £17 for the polyester. The place I bought it from is a big industrial unit that just sells fibreglass and makes things out of fibreglass. This is what they recommended for the job a lloyds approved polyester resin.

How much resin have you bought? I can't believe you'll need anything like £100 quids worth of epoxy resin.

The key thing (I'm told) is that polyester is fine for sticking to its uncured self (hence good for hull construction, including LLoyds), but not so good at sticking to existing surfaces, which epoxy excels at. Consider whether the design of your repair puts a tension or shear load on the join between the old and the new GRP.

 

[xeitosaphil]

I was thinking a plate under the bronze and down the front or just get him to copy the bronze one in stainless but with a strap. Some of those bronze forestay attachments have come to bits on other boats.

Just seen this on Fleabay and wondered if it was any good for you ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANCHOR-BO...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item338c1055a4

You would only need to get the strap welded to it then?

Philip

 

[Lakesailor]

That is cast. I'm not sure it's stainless steel. Aluminium alloy is my guess.

 

[halcyon]

Well it hasn't yet but the teak holding the stemhead fitting is starting to show some movement,

Climbing into the anchor locker to examine the underside reveals a previous repair (hence the visible bolts) where the forestay fitting must have ripped from the deck.

This seems to have been fixed by glassing and bolting in a bit of flat bar in the bow and a metal plate to replace the knackered bit of deck and a smear of filler.

View attachment 41016

This has gone down hill a lot since I last inspected it and is pretty much just a scary rusty cornflake now and is well beyond the stage I can pretend it isn't there.

Now I have a gallon of resin and about 7 metres of matting (some csm and some woven roving plus some biaxial tape) and the current plan is to take it to bits, rip all this rusty stuff out, reinstate the deck and then glass up a cone in the bows back to a foot and a half or so generally turning the area into a brick **** house. I may also try to tie the teak to the bows with a strip of stainless down the outside of the front.

Thoughts?

Our Halcyon developed a similar problem with the previous owners whilst crossing the Atlantic, the deck and stem fitting both bent up, infact it's still bent up about 5 degrees.

They bolted a strap to the front of the stem fitting, this goes down the front of the hull and bolted through a number of times, in addition a strap is bolted to the back of the stem fitting plate to the lower bolt on the strap inside the hull. This triangulates the repair and transmits the load of the fore stay in almost a straight line into the hull and strap, I have not seen any glass repair.

The repair was done on arrival on the US east coast, it completed the cruise down the Caribbean, Azores, Gib, Med and back home through Biscay, and is still fine 10 years on.


Brian

 

[BruceDanforth]

I've got a gallon of it which was cheaper than a little tin at the chandlers. 'The Fibreglass Repair Manual' ISBN 0-07-156914-6 agrees that polyester laminating resin will work fine as long as I prep properly and flowcoat so it doesn't soak up water and knacker it which is where most people fail. The naval architect has considered the design. I'm just going to be slapping the bongo on. It isn't going to be fixed with a 6 inch patch....

How much resin have you bought? I can't believe you'll need anything like £100 quids worth of epoxy resin.

The key thing (I'm told) is that polyester is fine for sticking to its uncured self (hence good for hull construction, including LLoyds), but not so good at sticking to existing surfaces, which epoxy excels at. Consider whether the design of your repair puts a tension or shear load on the join between the old and the new GRP.

 

[LittleSister]

I've got a gallon of it

Blimey! You'll be able to knock yourself up that deck saloon you've always promised yourself, add a sugar scoop stern, and still have enough left over for a new tender!

 

[BruceDanforth]

I'll offer what is left around the marina or to folks up at the RNYC or something....

Blimey! You'll be able to knock yourself up that deck saloon you've always promised yourself, add a sugar scoop stern, and still have enough left over for a new tender!