Hull linings sagging on my 2009 Squadron 55

[statgar]

I’m in the middle of this job on a 43AC. I got the materials from Boyriven in Andover. They take your chosen vinyl and have the roll foam backed, takes 4-5 weeks.I found that if you want neat joints you have to take it back to how Fairline built it which involves removing door frames and cupboards and non structure walls as well as all the ceiling. I’m no expecting to take 4 months working about 4 days a week. That’s for all the vinyl walls and ceiling’s. I take all the removed panels home to do the work in my garage. No way would I have enough room on the boat

Lovely boat the 43AC shame they dropped the format like Princess with the 435! wish I had the luxury of taking the panels home that said it does look as though I can clean these panels in situ if I'm careful with a good vacuum. I most cases the side and heading panels are easily removed which should cover the edges when replaced, wish me luck but I'd still rather get it done by a professional!
Regards
Terry

 

[Timeless 2]

I found that the vinyl peeled off the timber walls with the backing mesh intact although the foam disintegrated and this left a surface that the new foam backed glued onto well. However on the ceiling and infill panels the glue and foam had turned into a sticky substance that could only be removed with a Stanley blade taking 2-3 hours a panel. If the ply had been available easily( more than 2.4 m long) I would have cut new panels. It’s a bit of a lottery though because some areas scraped off with no problem. If your doing on site and can work outside then a couple of fold up tables are invaluable and a staple removal tool as there are lots to remove and a pneumatic stapler and compressor to fix the new vinyl. Good luck, it’s a lot of work.

 

[statgar]

It isn't only Fairline.
Princess (and I'm sure, others) use the same fabrics.
It is the foam backing that breaks down.
We are doing ours in stages using the original fabric (new of course) that I purchased from Lang and Potter in Plymouth (the people who did the original job in the Princess Factory).
I am wondering if this is the right approach or if I should have sourced/designed a different covering without foam.
I was going to do the job myself but I have found a good local contractor who is going through the boat piece by piece.

We are doing this job at the moment. Kayospruce sell the lining stuff with foam backing or not. We decided to use the old vynil as recommended by Hawk house, it cleans up good from the point of view of removing the disintegrating foam. The foam stuff, we spotted some yoga mats, dont laugh, at Decathlon. 6.5 mm by 1.7m by .5 m for three euros. Closed cell, etc, spec was good. Contact adhesive spray to hold on the well cleaned glassfibre sides. Stuck on in .5 m pieces. This time deciding on how to stick the vynil on to the sponge, probably a combination of double sided sticky from kayospruce and then roll the vynil around a batten and carefully spray contact adhesive on 6" inch strips to unroll it on to the figlass wall

Thanks for your response a very resourceful and economic method of fixing your issue, unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, my hull is clad with plywood panels that look difficult, if not impossible, to remove so I am looking to remove all the surrounding panels, clean up the plywood and re-cover them with a different (lighter) material that's why I am not worried about a foam backing. Good luck with your job I'll post my progress as it goes.
regards Terry

 

[statgar]

You could also put your request on the facebook Fairline owners website and also the Faceboook fairline boats old and new .
Couple of the contributors on there maybe able to Help ,Ed Engels specialises in that sort of work and Steve Kibble is always looking for a cheap holiday.

Thanks, Stelican unfortunately I don't do Facebook and can't find Ed Engels or Steve Kibble anywhere but I will try the Fairline owners website I am a member but have yet to find it very useful.
regards Terry

 

[harvey38]

I would steer clear of foam backed lining as it appears that as the foam breaks down, it detaches from the lining and the lining then sags.

I have found Bahco carbide scrapers to be very effective.

 

[superheat6k]

Thanks Stephan most helpful I probably won't use foam backing as I want a textile like finish Hawkeshouse have suggested using a bonding adhesive on the plywood backing and a high heat contact adhesive on the fabric applying a centre strip first and moving outwards in 10 cm strips which makes sense.
Thanks again, Terry

The GRP internal surface to which the linings attached was a bit rough, with CSM stray strands and blobs here and there. The foam effectively smooths these out, so just be aware that without a foam layer surface imperfections might show through.

 

[statgar]

You could also put your request on the facebook Fairline owners website and also the Faceboook fairline boats old and new .
Couple of the contributors on there maybe able to Help ,Ed Engels specialises in that sort of work and Steve Kibble is always looking for a cheap holiday.

Most of the linings on my Sq58 had been done just before I bought it but I did both the bathrooms myself. Remove the panels and clean up the surfaces. There are some good YouTube videos explaining how to do it plus suppliers info. @jrudge did his himself (or with a little help maybe) and I am pretty sure there is a thread on here somewhere explaining how he did it. It's pretty labour intensive and I was quoted £20k four years ago to do the previous Sq58 I bought. Ed Engel was your man here, not sure if he is still doing it but I know he used to travel all over the Europe. He is ex Fairline and a master!

Thanks Dustywings, I was quoted £50k last year but that included the headlinings, I'll try Jrudge but do you have any idea how to contact Ed Engel?

 

[dustywings]

Thanks Dustywings, I was quoted £50k last year but that included the headlinings, I'll try Jrudge but do you have any idea how to contact Ed Engel?

PM sent with contact details for Ed.

 

[statgar]

I agree with Stemar, van lining carpet is easily found and not difficult to work with. Look for the type that stretches in all directions and have a look at the many videos on Youtube. The recommended spray adhesive works well but you may find something a bit less sticky easier on the awkward bits, gives you the time to move, reposition, refit etc.
Insulation may be worthwhile, keep condensation down when it is cold and heat out when it is hot. Plenty available online, I used foil backed foam, easy to work with and not expensive.
Let us know how you get on!

Thanks humblebee I would rather prefer single ply textile material as I have the carpet stuff in my camper van, fine for that but maybe not my boat.
regards
Terry

 

[statgar]

Hi the foam backed material is probably the same that is used in a lot of cars ie jaguar etc normally light grey or beige, there is a good heat resistant spray glue available to fix it with,
You don't need to use foam back if there is some outher fabric you like just don't pick anything heavy.
Or with a very open weave as the glue may penitrate.
It's quite easy to do but a second pair of hands will be helpful.
There is a Co in Salford blackfriars Rd I think called seagals, they are very helpful if you tell them what you want to do.
They supply a big range of headlineing fabric and the spray glue etc.
Recovering car headlineing is a job I have done many times as a retired car trimmer. Regards Harvey

Thanks Muxey the fabric I'm thinking of is already in use on some partition bukheads where it is glued, canr find Seagals anywhere.
Regards
Terry

 

[statgar]

I am in the middle of replacing my lining, the boat was built in 1986, and am using closed foam 'gym mats' and covering that with a fabric from Vanlining.

The gym mats are black so no light passes through the hull, about 10 mm thick giving some good insulation, stuck on with glue. The Vanlining, is easy to work with.

Sounds like a good idea sandy but I don't think I need insulation or coverage as I will be gluing to smooth plywood I hope if I can clean it.
regards Terry

 

[statgar]

Second what Tranona says about hiding any imperfections, the foam backing also softens all the edges and makes it all look better. I used leatherette without foam and every detail of the ply shows through to the surface. Also don't scrimp on the glue, make sure you use heat resistant glue, (I got mine from Hawke House too) thats probably why yours have broken down prematurely.
good luck
Also see Making headlining panels - Practical Boat Owner


SSG

Thanks Stephan, bit worrying about plywood imperfections I won't know about mine until I get the old stuff scrapped off ideally I should remove the panels and replace with new ones but I don't want to pull half the boats interior out, the edges will be hidden by the removable side, sill and header panels I hope!!
regards
Terry

 

[statgar]

This issue is not just a Fairline problem, YouTube channel MV Freedom has had to do ceiling panel repairs multiple times on a late model Nordhavn, the repair process is shown in great detail.

Thanks AndieMac I follow Shaun and Liz also I see he did a mark 2 version with a different fabric which I've tried to source but the US agent won't ship to the UK thanks Brexit!!
Regards
Terry

 

[statgar]

Foam backed vinyl was used by many boat builders. On my Westerly Fulmar I recently replaced it in the fore cabin with materials from Hawke House. The PowerPoint presentation I made to the Westerly Owners Association should give you [lenty of advice.

https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/images/1/17/Vinyl_Headling_Concerto_PowerPoint.pdf

Great job Concerto it does look rather difficult though thankfully my headlining panels are easily removed from their 3M double lock fixings and the sides are all plywood clad so should be fairly smooth.
Regards
Terry

 

[statgar]

It isn't only Fairline.
Princess (and I'm sure, others) use the same fabrics.
It is the foam backing that breaks down.
We are doing ours in stages using the original fabric (new of course) that I purchased from Lang and Potter in Plymouth (the people who did the original job in the Princess Factory).
I am wondering if this is the right approach or if I should have sourced/designed a different covering without foam.
I was going to do the job myself but I have found a good local contractor who is going through the boat piece by piece.

Thanks, Hurricane, don't suppose your local contractor fancies a month in the Ionian, does he? seriously in the absence of any professional interest I will probably have to do the job myself with a friend from the UK I know it won't be to a factory standard but by removing the plywood panels I will probably end up destroying the boat I am fairly sure that I can hide the edges behind the removable side, sill and heading panels, wish me luck. BTW glad to see you are still enjoying St Carles I was quite keen to go there when my son was studying at Valencia but we ended up in Denia for a couple of years. regards Terry