how to treat gap under toe rail?

[nmeyrick]

Today I lifted a loose section of toe rail over the transom and found underneath a gap about 1 inch wide which was filled with a firm but slightly flexible orange yellow substance, which looks something like amber or dried resin. Embedded in this was a narrow strip of rotten wood, so I dug out the wood and some of the amber stuff, leaving a gap approx 1x1 inch and a foot long under the toe rail. I'm not sure why this space would be there in the first place as the boat is not of a cored construction (Rival 38).

Firstly does any one have any idea what this amber stuff is, and whether it is doing any purpose other than as a filler?

I'd also appreciate any advice as to the best filler to use to plug this gap - I presume either some sort of epoxy or a silicone sealant?

Lastly any tips on how to get the new filler to stick to the amber stuff, or how to ensure that the screws for the wooden rail will stick into the new filler?

Many thanks
Neil

 

[William_H]

What no answer. If the boat has balsa core construction then the filler would take the place of the balsa core at the edges to stop moisture getting in. Yellow could be simply polyester resin poured in.
The wood may have been glued in to permit the toe rail to be screwed down.

You need to clean and roughen up the fibreglass surfaces and get rid of all silicone if there is any. If the yellow is resin and well attached leave it there.
I would suggest an epoxy to ensure best attachment into the gap. The epoxy can be thickened with microballoons or even talc powder to make a suitable paste. You could then lay the toe rail on with screws into the epoxy when it is still soft. Or better still when the epoxy is hard drill and tap the hole for a metal thread screw. This way it can be removed easily.
Sorry if this suggestion is inappropriate but I think that is what I would do from what I can make of the description. good luck olewill

 

[nimbusgb]

Reckon William has it. The yellow stuff looks like raw polyester resin.

I'd go with epoxy and micro-balloons, bring it all up level with the tops of the two mouldins and use some long S/Steel screws through a new toerail. The screw holes will have to be prepped properly, predrilled to acommodate the shank and pilot drilled to the right size. if you dont do this you will end up with brokenk screwdriver blades and more than a few sheared off screws in the holes. Recess the screws into the rail using a 10mm counterbore and cap off with a plug to match the toerail.

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Neil,

The amber material may be related to the joining of the hull and deck when looking at it's location.

When fitting a toe rail you must remember that some people like to add shackles and a range of items, some with high loadings; for this reason I would be looking at filling the base of the void with resin and closed cell balloons.

Ensure you stop filling about 12 mm from the finished top line. Run half a dozen strips of 300 to 400 gram epoxy class cloth from edge to edge picking up the cut edge.

This should result in a slight trough across the stern, now add a layer of epoxy and micro-fibres that finishes close to but not above the finish line.

Let this cure and remove any high spots, use a power sander or you will be there all day, Micro fibres are hard to sand by hand and not a doddle with a power sander.

Next apply a coat of closed cell micro balloons just above the required height; by running 3 layers of tape each side of the worked area you will be able to drag a straight or curved edge along to give a good profile.

Apply a coat or two of epoxy primer to protect the epoxy from UV rays.

Next place the toe rail in the required location and mark the holes for drilling, or drill through the existing holes.

The size will depend on what fastening you plan to use, if you think the layer of glass and micro fibres is deep enough, then thread the epoxy.

Note: If you need more detailed advice please let us all know, if I don't have an answer I'm sure you will get a response from others.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[nmeyrick]

Fantastic, many thanks for the great advice guys. Off to the chandlery!

 

[oldsaltoz]

The materials you require will cost a lot less if you visit a fibreglass supplier or boat builder,

 

[Avocet]

Is there a chance of the epoxy getting too hot in that space as it cures? I only ask because of a recent scary "exotherm experience" (no, not on Avocet - I'm sticking my staircase back together!) when I put a fairly big dollop of resin and microfibres into a 30+mm hole about 30mm deep bored into the woodwork and it didn't half get hot! (OK, Iwas using "fast" hardener at the time)!

 

[oldsaltoz]

No more or less than normal, the first layer of balloons should be ok at 10 mm a time and subsequent layers can be applied as cooling is evident.

The cloth should be put down 2 layers at a time and monitor for 10 minutes and if no significant heating apply another 2 and monitor as above.

The micro fibre layer should go about 10 mm and monitor as above. There is a lot to be said for applying wet on tacky, this avoids the sanding between coats.

Any exothermic activity should be evident 10 minutes after application, might be a tad longer in cool conditions.

Avagoodweekend......

PS I suspect the fill got rather hot because you were using rapid cure with a very small surface area.