How to remove an old water pump from the engine block?

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NealB

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Yes, I'm still fiddling about with the two 1966 Newage/ BMC 2.2 diesels.

I've made, by my own (low) mechanical standards, good progress: both engines are now running and sound good, and gave us a very pleasant couple of hours or so pootling around, last week.

The port engine is losing fresh water/ antifreeze through the tell-tale hole behind the pulley of the pump.

The pump looks like this (though mine looks in better nick:

Lancing Marine - Bmc 2.2 And 2.5 Fresh Water Pump in Sussex, South East | Boats and Outboards

I've removed the 4 bolts, and disconnected the hose, but the pump is not shifting: I've pulled it, twisted it, very tentatively tapped it with a small hammer, and sworn at it: no movement at all.

Are there any time-tested tricks I'm missing, or do I just need to hit it harder?
 
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Thank you, vyv ........I did try that on Monday, but, as so often, I was maybe overly tentative. I'll give it another go this afternoon.

(and just for clarification, when I say "tapped it with a hammer": I mean, I held a lenghth of wood against the pump and , gingerly, hit that).
 
Probably stuck on the gasket. If so, it will take a bit of persuading to get off. Be careful not to damage the gasket face. If you are lucky, there will be some reliefs cast into the body for a pry bar.
 
NealB said:
Thank you, vyv ........I did try that on Monday, but, as so often, I was maybe overly tentative. I'll give it another go this afternoon.

(and just for clarification, when I say "tapped it with a hammer": I mean, I held a lenghth of wood against the pump and , gingerly, hit that).
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Tentatively and gingerly were your mistakes.
 
This is exactly what hide and copper-faced hammers are made for but a piece of hardwood and a conventional persuader will shift it equally well.

Just make absolutely sure there isn't one more sneaky bolt. (I have a friend...).
 
anoccasionalyachtsman said:
This is exactly what hide and copper-faced hammers are made for but a piece of hardwood and a conventional persuader will shift it equally well.

Just make absolutely sure there isn't one more sneaky bolt. (I have a friend...).
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Thanks again!

I fell for the 'sneaky bolt' scenario last month, when trying to remove the injection pump (yes, I was VERY pleased to have been tentative with that one!).
 
When in doubt - fetch it a clout!

Ensuring before you clout it that you have removed all the bolts.

And if you DO clout it, give it a proper one. A big hammer is a tool, no more, no less, and must be used properly.
 
Mister E said:
The pump is knackered so give that a good smack rather than hammering something in the join to the block.
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rotrax said:
When in doubt - fetch it a clout!

Ensuring before you clout it that you have removed all the bolts.

And if you DO clout it, give it a proper one. A big hammer is a tool, no more, no less, and must be used properly.
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Thank you for those wise words: but very difficult for a cautious, inveterate coward, like I, to turn into action.
 
James_Calvert said:
No idea if this could help, but can you try turning the engine over a tiny bit, just a couple of degrees maybe?

Just in case meshed cogs are somehow jamming withdrawal of the waterpump shaft.

I'll delete this if someone says this is rubbish for this engine
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Thanks for the suggestion.

It's certainly no problem to turn the engine over.

It's an old fashioned 'fan-belt' driven pump, so no cogs to jam up, but, like you, I'd be interested to hear of any possible downsides (I can't think of any, myself).
 
The old BMC 2.2 diesels were used in the FX4 black cabs. In the words of the prophet, and as they say in old Pompey, they would not pull a Tart off a Sailor.................

I have taken plenty of those engines in bits and put them back together.

IIRC the water pump was a grey iron casting and could - and did - rust/corrode so it became tight in the block.

So, you wont be using it again, place a hefty bar or length of hardwood against the pulley flange and hit it away from the block.

As we said earlier, hit it hard with a heavy-ish hammer.

Good luck!
 
rotrax said:
The old BMC 2.2 diesels were used in the FX4 black cabs. In the words of the prophet, and as they say in old Pompey, they would not pull a Tart off a Sailor.................

I have taken plenty of those engines in bits and put them back together.

IIRC the water pump was a grey iron casting and could - and did - rust/corrode so it became tight in the block.

So, you wont be using it again, place a hefty bar or length of hardwood against the pulley flange and hit it away from the block.

As we said earlier, hit it hard with a heavy-ish hammer.

Good luck!
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Thank you for your thoughts.

I believe the engines were very widely used (in black cabs, vans, tractors, Montegos ....... a long list).

I certainly hope to use the same pump again. It looks, externally, to be in very good condition (as does the rest of both engines). Replacement pumps are not, I think, readily available.

Whacking the pulley will be a last resort.

I'm delighted to report that this particular sailor has never been that closely involved with an old Pompey tart: I don't think my honed, athlete's body would have stood up to the trauma.
 
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NealB said:
Thank you for your thoughts.

I believe the engines were very widely used (in black cabs, vans, tractors, Montegos ....... a long list).

I certainly hope to use the same pump again. It looks, externally, to be in very good condition (as does the rest of both engines). Replacement pumps are not, I think, readily available.

Whacking the pulley will be a last resort.

I'm delighted to report that this particular sailor has never been that closely involved with an old Pompey tart: I don't think my honed, athlete's body would have stood up to the trauma.
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I did not say whack the pulley - I said whack the pulley flange. It is a substantial piece of steel pressed tightly onto a 5/8 ish shaft. You wont break that with a length of hardwood and a hammer! If it wont shift any other way you are kinda captured, are you not?

If you do whack it and it does come off, if it is leaking as you say, the face seal is shot or the bearings are shot, so you will need a new one.

You can get the pulley flange pressed off to change the bearings and seal. A guy I know used a service kit for an East European light truck - Avia? - and used the face seal bits suitably modified for his particular water pump. The bearings were off the shelf.

Montego used a Perkins derived unit, not the old 2.2 BMC pushrod donk.

Dont be shy, tickling it wont work!
 
NealB said:
Thanks for the suggestion.

It's certainly no problem to turn the engine over.

It's an old fashioned 'fan-belt' driven pump, so no cogs to jam up, but, like you, I'd be interested to hear of any possible downsides (I can't think of any, myself).
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Doesn't look like a relevant suggestion then.

Can I instead recommend a lump hammer as a useful tool in your bag? You don't have to swing it very far or very fast to achieve the needed effect. So it's quite a controlled if hefty wallop. But use an intermediary block of wood or something protect the pump itself from the direct blow, as others advise.
 
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