How to remove 35 year old port-lights?

Robert Wilson

Robert Wilson

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Mine seem to be embedded in unbreakable glue/mastic/silicon.
I removed the surface-mounted screws but nothing moved, so how do I remove the darned things?

Are they in multiple pieces or if I could break the seal can they be extracted in one piece?

I accept that I'm possibly going to need replacement lights (custom-made or off-the-shelf) as I can't see how to remove them without wrecking them.
Annoyingly they leak, and no amount of "stop-leak" and/or Sikaflex beading has stopped the leaks.

Just another task to add to this year's £ssss refurb.:(
 
A thin palette knife and a wooden mallet should do it. Just gently work around the edge to break the seal and very gently prise away or push out from the inside. As I recall you will find more instructions on the Harlow Marine and Eagle Boat Windows websites. Just say a small prayer that a previous owner has not used a sikaflex type adhesive.... They will still come off but much more effort will be required
 
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AS RivalRedwing says. Assuming yours are flange mounted it is virtually impossible to push them out straight, they need to be peeled off by lifting one side and enlarging the gap with a knife and/or continued lifting of one side. My windows have been removed many times, always stuck down with Sikaflex 291. It's tedious but it works in the end.
 
vyv_cox said:
AS RivalRedwing says. Assuming yours are flange mounted it is virtually impossible to push them out straight, they need to be peeled off by lifting one side and enlarging the gap with a knife and/or continued lifting of one side. My windows have been removed many times, always stuck down with Sikaflex 291. It's tedious but it works in the end.
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Thanks to you both.

Am I correct in assuming that in using this technique the outer flange/trim is the only part greater than the aperture or would I have to detach an inner flange as well?

Once I have "broken the seal" do I just keep working away (gently!) from the outside, or do I need to push (with piece of wood and a mallet) from the inside as well?
 
Robert Wilson said:
Thanks to you both.

Am I correct in assuming that in using this technique the outer flange/trim is the only part greater than the aperture or would I have to detach an inner flange as well?

Once I have "broken the seal" do I just keep working away (gently!) from the outside, or do I need to push (with piece of wood and a mallet) from the inside as well?
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I cannot speak for your windows/portlights but all my original ones, plus a Lewmar one that I fitted years later, are attached by external flanges only. Inspection should show whether this is true in your case.

I found that once the seal was broken at one end of the windows a steady push from inside would always help.
 
vyv_cox said:
I cannot speak for your windows/portlights but all my original ones, plus a Lewmar one that I fitted years later, are attached by external flanges only. Inspection should show whether this is true in your case.

I found that once the seal was broken at one end of the windows a steady push from inside would always help.
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That would be indeed good news.
I shall have to investigate when the rain stops. 50mm on Thursday and at least 100mm in last 24hrs and still raining.
Happy New Year - I can't wait !!
 
vyv_cox said:
AS RivalRedwing says. Assuming yours are flange mounted it is virtually impossible to push them out straight, they need to be peeled off by lifting one side and enlarging the gap with a knife and/or continued lifting of one side. My windows have been removed many times, always stuck down with Sikaflex 291. It's tedious but it works in the end.
Click to expand...

I replaced a portlight that opened in to the cockpit. I asked Oyster what I should use as mastic and they recommended Sikaflex. I asked them what would happen after another 30 years when some poor owner had to remove it and they recommended using a heat gun. I wish I had asked before I removed the old one as it may have helped. It took a lot of pushing, prying, cutting and tapping. to get it out.
 
Most of mine were just sealed with a strip of foam and screwed down, they were easy to remove. They were still well sealed after 40 years (it was the seal between window and frame that had failed). The po had rebedded one on sikaflex and it had extruded from the surface flange into the cut out area of the coachroof in which the window was located. To break the seal in that area took a lot of effort from inside the boat. If you do use sikaflex then use it sparingly. Arbormast or self adhesive foam would be my recommendation.
 
I agree that they should be sealed with sealant not adhesive. Many people use Sikaflex by default not considering its purpose or future dismantling - I've done it myself in the past but now have more consideration for future owners.
 
Robert Wilson said:
But you did get it out. That at least is encouraging.:encouragement:

Thank you.
R
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Yes it came out without damage to old portlight (not that that mattered) or the gelcoat. It required a fair amount of cursing. But the advice about a heat gun came too late. Id be interested if you tried it.

It was quite funny, I was in a marina and it took me longer than I thought so it had gone dark. Across the water was a wedding reception - a very loud party. So I carried on working safe in the knowledge that if there was anyone around they were not having an early night (and I had not seen anyone aboard other boats anyway). I was surprised by a security guard who though he had caught me red handed breaking in, until he took a closer look and believed me that I was pushing the window out from inside.
 
Do not hit anything hard. Drill a hole through the middle of the plexiglass/perspex. Put a piece of ply on the inside the size of the viewing area. Put a length of studding through with large plate washer & nut on inside.
2 blocks of wood outside with a piece spanning across. Pass studding through this with washer & nut. Tighten up & apply tension. Then gradually work round edges with pallette knife etc, odd light tap on inside if needed to start it off
 
Then hook the ply behind the inner frame. Being able to do this sort of thing easily & having the parts to hand in my workshop I would find it very simple. But i must admit that if all you have at home is a set of golf clubs ( & you would be by no means unusual these days) then it will be different
 
Im having the same issue and found this thread very interesting and informative. Thanks.
In my case the surrounds are aluminium and as I've peeled and pulled, the pespex and the frames have just curled - but most have come away. The stubborn ones I've left for another day!
 
vyv_cox said:
AS RivalRedwing says. Assuming yours are flange mounted it is virtually impossible to push them out straight, they need to be peeled off by lifting one side and enlarging the gap with a knife and/or continued lifting of one side. My windows have been removed many times, always stuck down with Sikaflex 291. It's tedious but it works in the end.
Click to expand...

Vyv, I thought you used a sealing tape from Hadlow Marine to bed your windows. I used the stuff he advised me to us, and so simple and NO mess to re seal everything

Richard - this is their web site - give them a bell, they are incredibly helpfull.
http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/seals-bedding.html

Good luck with the refit!
 
Chris_Robb said:
Vyv, I thought you used a sealing tape from Hadlow Marine to bed your windows. I used the stuff he advised me to us, and so simple and NO mess to re seal everything

Richard - this is their web site - give them a bell, they are incredibly helpfull.
http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/seals-bedding.html

Good luck with the refit!
Click to expand...

Different boat Chris. I used sealing tape on large perspex windows in Cecilia on the Menai Strait. It seems to have worked reasonably well but because the fixing screws were somewhat far apart the tape has expanded in the overwhelming summer heat of North Wales and now has the appearance of a 1950s curtain pelmet. The windows I had rebuilt in Greece (arranged by Leros with a company in Athens) are both sealed and attached by an adhesive I swore I would never use, an engineering silicone product. After three seasons they remain perfect and totally leak free.
 
vyv_cox said:
Different boat Chris. I used sealing tape on large perspex windows in Cecilia on the Menai Strait. It seems to have worked reasonably well but because the fixing screws were somewhat far apart the tape has expanded in the overwhelming summer heat of North Wales and now has the appearance of a 1950s curtain pelmet. The windows I had rebuilt in Greece (arranged by Leros with a company in Athens) are both sealed and attached by an adhesive I swore I would never use, an engineering silicone product. After three seasons they remain perfect and totally leak free.
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Of course - you have 2 boats!!! I replaced 2 years ago my portlights with Lewmars opening ports and used the tape. It was so easy to do especially with Hadlows instructions on corners etc. They have remained watertight with no tape using out. Hopefully they have not leaked this winter!! I noticed that the temperature in Marmaris was down to -3c, I have not winterised the water system.
 
Chris_Robb said:
Vyv, I thought you used a sealing tape from Hadlow Marine to bed your windows. I used the stuff he advised me to us, and so simple and NO mess to re seal everything

Richard - this is their web site - give them a bell, they are incredibly helpfull.
http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/seals-bedding.html

Good luck with the refit!
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris. The tape seems to be a perfect answer. Hadlows sound a helpful contact.

Also, as mentioned somewhere above, I'm going to try a hot air gun to ease removal.

I hope your waters haven't frozen in -3°C !

Robert
 
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