How to get a boat "level" when on the hard standing?

[mickywillis]

Whilst I understand how to get a boat level by using chocks under the keels (boat is bilge keel) just how do you determine it is actually level?

May seem an odd question, but what surface on the boat, would you use to ensure that boat is level bow to stern (coach roof, saloon floor, mast step, etc) and the same in relation to port to starboard? I assume that a spirit level can be used to verify the level, but are there any other methods to determine if the boat is truly level?

The hard standing is mainly unmade ground/scalpings so unable to use that as a true reference, so obviously I'd need to level boat under the keels to obtain the correct position.

What I'd like to check is the mast rake when the mast is put back up again, using a plumb line on a halyard from top to bottom of mast to measure fore/aft rake.

 

[Sandy Bottom]

A water level gauge (clear hosepipe) is the cheapest and most accurate way :encouragement:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjeN8jSIb1Y

 

[Tranona]

Mast rake is relative to the waterline, so you either level the boat to the waterline or more sensibly wait until you are afloat then check and adjust if necessary. Normally a boat on the hard would be chocked slightly stern down so that water drains aft through scuppers and cockpit drains.

 

[xeitosaphil]

Whilst I understand how to get a boat level by using chocks under the keels (boat is bilge keel) just how do you determine it is actually level?

May seem an odd question, but what surface on the boat, would you use to ensure that boat is level bow to stern (coach roof, saloon floor, mast step, etc) and the same in relation to port to starboard? I assume that a spirit level can be used to verify the level, but are there any other methods to determine if the boat is truly level?

The hard standing is mainly unmade ground/scalpings so unable to use that as a true reference, so obviously I'd need to level boat under the keels to obtain the correct position.

What I'd like to check is the mast rake when the mast is put back up again, using a plumb line on a halyard from top to bottom of mast to measure fore/aft rake.

Depends how accurate you want to be?

I had an occasion to level the boat and found loads of anomalies? You could use the waterline with a water gauge if marked by the manufacturer? Or the level of fouling on the waterline –but that would depend on how you movable ballast/ items aboard are rigged?
You could use a good quality level ( Stabila or similar) on the top of your cockpit lockers lids/ cockpit floor/ companionway hatch for port to starboard level. ( I found not all were the same? )
Fore and aft is going to be waterline/fouling with a water level. Or saloon floor.
For what it’s worth, I would wait till you are next afloat and trim the boat to what you think is level, then use a main halyard to make sure the mast is upright then adjust mast to recognised rake measuring offset at the gooseneck.

 

[Lakesailor]

Level across the beam is easy. Use a 4ft spirit level across a board (on edge) across the gunwhale in the cockpit, as far forward as you can. If the boat is at all symmetrical you'll be close.

To do it along the centreline sight over the spirit level along the marked waterline (you'll have an idea if it correct from the slime-line).
I did this recently to level the dayboat prior to fitting floor bearers in the cockpit.
Although it wasn't essential they were level (think of a trawler's foredeck) I thought it a good starting point.

 

[William_H]

A very profoiund question with no real answer. As said athwart ships is easy I use the bridge deck at the entrance hatch. Fore and aft is tricky. I know on my boat when on the swing mooring the cockpit floor is a little low at the front as it collects rain water. This is the level I use for antifouling of the water line. But being a light boat when I sail it the stern goes down by 10 or 15 cms with crew on board. If you are concerned with mast rake then this is the level more appropriate. ie for you when sailing.
A long time back I had a well trusted skilled club memeber tell me I should rake my mast back more. He said forward rake is not good. I realized he walks past my boat on the swing mooring at a time when I hoisted the mooring buoy and some chain on deck such that the bow was loaded down with mooring so stern was high. Rake was correct when sailing but looked aweful on mooring.
Anyway I would suggest you level the boat to what seems OK ie along the cockpit seats. Then set up the mast vertical. When you go sailing there should then be some aft rake. Factors like boom height mightaffect your final decision on mast rake. IMHO you should not count too much on lee helm/weather helm to tell you if it is right. This doesn't really show up much in my boat just savagee weather hlem when heeled. good luck olewill

 

[prv]

I used to level the boat in the yard specifically to get both the deck scuppers and the cockpit drains to shed water properly. There was only a narrow range in which they all drained - not a problem when afloat because the motion would slosh it all to the right place, but when propped up ashore for the winter there was scope for quite large puddles which left stains on the decks. The levelling was mostly by eye although I did one year cleverly take a marble to roll along the deck to the lowest point. This was with the travelift driver inching up or down on the relevant straps until I was happy, then his yard guys knocked in the timbers underneath to hold the position. Final adjustment of the mast I did once back afloat.

Pete

 

[colhel]

Level on the saloon table?

 

[hartcjhart]

a jubilee clip partway up the mast with a spigot 'poking' out.attatch a plumb line to the spigot,if truly level the line will run true aginst the mast in both directions

 

[xeitosaphil]

Level on the saloon table?

That’s a good idea, fill a wine glass ¾ full of wine and measure down from each side of the glass to the wine.


This would be OK, as long as the wine remains the same level between measurements.

 

[GrahamM376]

Mast rake is relative to the waterline, so you either level the boat to the waterline or more sensibly wait until you are afloat then check and adjust if necessary. Normally a boat on the hard would be chocked slightly stern down so that water drains aft through scuppers and cockpit drains.

Surely, mast rake is relevant to hull? Our waterline varies depending on speed, we sit with bow lower on the mooring and at low speed but the stern squats deeper as speed increases.

 

[lw395]

Most boats seem to have imperfect symmetry.
I think it might be best to measure a lot of points and then decide what you're declaring to be 'level'.
On a fin keeler, maybe keel vertical is the best reference?

 

[Cloven]

Normally a boat on the hard would be chocked slightly stern down so that water drains aft through scuppers and cockpit drains.

+1. I always have to ask the boat handlers to put an extra wedge of wood under the front of my boats bilge keels so in fact it does drain the cockpit.

 

[stevebrassett]

That’s a good idea, fill a wine glass ¾ full of wine and measure down from each side of the glass to the wine.


This would be OK, as long as the wine remains the same level between measurements.

Better still, drink several glasses of wine. Then you won't care if the boat is level. You won't be able to tell, anyway.

 

[John the kiwi]

The serious reply that i was given from a sailmaker was that the designer should have made the saloon berths level fore and aft when the boat was floating to design waterline.
We wanted to set up the precise design mast rake to cross check measurements for a new mainsail.
So, ashore i chocked the boat sideways and fore and aft based on the saloon berths.
Seemed right when compared with the marked waterline and other cross checks.
Good luck.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Bulkheads were probably installed vertically fore and aft. Their inner edges (at passages) were probably vertical as well.

I use a water gauge though (with cake colouring to make the water more visible).

 

[rob2]

Agreed that the rake should be checked once afloat. The best level is gravity - use a plumb line to check the keel is upright, but fore and aft is more difficult and I guess the baseboards of the bunks with a spirit level may be the most repeatable.

Rob.

 

[jwilson]

Level is better done by chucking some water into the places it can collect (cockpit seating, cockpit sole etc), and checking it actually does drain. That might not be dead level, but water draining is much more important than any theoretical level. Most boats better off a little bows up for this reason.

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

The bulkheads will be perpendicular to the water line, so, level the boat using the bulkhead as reference point.

 

[All_at_Sea]

Easy
Turn off all seacocks. Block up cockpit drains. Get hose......and fill the boat up. When completely full swim inside and have a look, it will be obvious if the boat isn't level.