How to clean and re-proof sprayhood at home?

Babylon

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I plan to put my whole grubby-looking sprayhood to soak overnight in a (clean) wheelie-bin part-filled with luke-warm water, but the question is what cleaning-product to use? In the past I've successfully used Bio-Tex powder to dislodge dirt and algae-staining on halyards (24 hour soak). Can I use this stuff on the sprayhood, or is there some other product that is more appropriate?

After cleaning and rinsing, how do I then re-proof the fabric? Tent water-proofing?
 
Don't use bleach ,stitching will fail pretty soon.
Try soaking in Patio magic solution for a while, to get rid of Algae ,rubbing any solid areas with scrubbing brush .Then Vanish or similar to get rid of dirt.
Rinse well .When dry paint on Fabsil Gold for best results .
Cindy
 
Washed mine with Nikwax Tech wash & reproofed with nikwax txdirect. Both in the washing machine on cool setting. Mines looking a little faded and worn so going to immerse it in dye soon too bring back the colour.
 
Not wishing to be controversial, but I've just done my stackpack and the manufacturers specifically warned against bleach. They said spray with Patio Magic (diluted 3:1), then wash in any bio laundry liquid. Finally, to reproof they recommended Fabsil Universal UV. BTW the Fabsil is much cheaper on Amazon.

Edit: Oops I see WilkinsonSails has already posted the same; possibly it was her I spoke to ;)
 
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Each winter I lob my sprayhood in the bath, part fill with hottish water, plenty of Starbrite sail and canvas cleaner, and have at it (gently) with a plastic nail brush. All the green stuff comes off. Dry it on the line and take it back to the boat. Just before re-fitting, lay it on the pontoon and spray it with a chandlery waterproofer (probably also Starbrite). Looks as good as new every time.

If very green I'd try the Patio Magic suggestion but if it's only moderate it will scrub off with the detergent and you need to shift the non-algal dirt and grime anyway. I would not be keen on bleach or Vanish or anything of that sort.
 
Don't use bleach ,stitching will fail pretty soon.

Despite the dire warnings of not using chlorine bleach on polyester (the stitching) a 1% solution, which is normal household strength diluted 4 to 5 times, left on for 10 minutes then we'll rinsed off seems to do no harm. This sprayhood has had that treatment yearly & is 16 years old with original stitching. It is packed away under a cover every time the boat is left because I find that sunlight does the most damage.

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You can see where the Fabsil has been applied.
 
Sunbrella recommend a product called '303 fabric guard' for their acrylic canvas but many UK cover makers use cheaper stuff which I think may be proofed differently. I have been told that silicone products are not compatible with the original acrylic canvas proofer which must be thoroughly washed out before using them.
303 claim on their website that silicone proofers actually encourage mildew and have a shorter life than their stuff but I suppose, to quote Mandy, they would say that, wouldn't they?
I have a bottle of 303 to try but the new canvas is fine so I can only test it on the old covers which go on in the winter.
 
Not wishing to be controversial, but I've just done my stackpack and the manufacturers specifically warned against bleach. They said spray with Patio Magic (diluted 3:1), then wash in any bio laundry liquid. Finally, to reproof they recommended Fabsil Universal UV. BTW the Fabsil is much cheaper on Amazon.

Patio Magic seems to work best if sprayed on and then left to dry. Leave for 7-10 days (preferably dry weather) as it seems to work much better with UV exposure (so I was informed). Any algae dies then goes grey/black and the sprayhood (ropes etc) can then be washed as others have suggested.
 
Thanks so much for the advices. So, what processes do the professional sail-cleaning laundries (e.g.Tip Top) use to clean and treat canvas?
 
Try soaking in Patio magic solution for a while, to get rid of Algae ,rubbing any solid areas with scrubbing brush .Then Vanish or similar to get rid of dirt.
Rinse well .When dry paint on Fabsil Gold for best results .
Cindy

Thanks for this. Have ordered Fabsil Gold for proofing once clean.

But what effect, if any, will Patio Magic (or Starbrite canvas cleaner or similar products like Renovo) have on the windows if left to soak?
 
Question Number 3:

What product to lubricate zips (sprayhood also attaches to cockpit enclosure) and poppers (which get incredibly stiff with age)?
 
Question Number 3:

What product to lubricate zips (sprayhood also attaches to cockpit enclosure) and poppers (which get incredibly stiff with age)?

Another vote for Fabsil gold. And I believe white vinegar does wonders for zips, although I haven't tried it myself.
 
Patio Magic seems to work best if sprayed on and then left to dry. Leave for 7-10 days (preferably dry weather) as it seems to work much better with UV exposure (so I was informed). Any algae dies then goes grey/black and the sprayhood (ropes etc) can then be washed as others have suggested.

That's exactly what I thought. So last w/e a pegged my stackpack on the guardwires in the midday sun, soaked it and then sprayed with a 3:1 solution of Patio Magic. Went down below for a few minutes and was about to head off for lunch, whereupon I noticed that all the green mouldy bits had almost disappeared. After a couple of hours (cover now dry) there was no trace of it.

Perhaps this product's name is entirely appropriate ;)
 
Thanks for this. Have ordered Fabsil Gold for proofing once clean.

But what effect, if any, will Patio Magic (or Starbrite canvas cleaner or similar products like Renovo) have on the windows if left to soak?

No need to soak in Patio Magic. Just either use a small garden pump spray or brush it on. The same applies if you use it on teak or decks as well. Brilliant stuff.
 
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