How easy is it to drill and work thin perspex?

Burnham Bob

Burnham Bob

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My beta engine control panel is fairly basic - key, lights and stop button. However it is mounted vertically, recessed and covered with a thin perspex lid that hinges up and down - great for keeping the rain out and yet being able to see the warning lights. Getting on the boat with the lid half way opened I trod on it and cracked it. I have the old piece to use as a template but was always under the impression that perspex chips and shatters if you aren't careful cutting ad drilling it.

Tools I have are limited - hacksaw, junior hacksaw, black and decker workmate, old metal work files and a set of needle files. I do have a decent cordless dril though. If I can get a bit of perspex should I have a go or try to glue the old bit back together?
 
It's not that difficult to work. Just make sure that it is held firm and don't force the tools. The biggest problem is likely to be when drilling it. If the drill catches on the perspex it can chip it quite easily but it's unlikely to shatter it. If you can get your hands on an old fashioned hand drill it may be worth playing safe and using that.
 
Go to your local signmaker and get a piece cut to size - although it is not difficult to cut yourself, just keep it supported as you cut. Drill slowly with a standard HSS drill. again, probably easier to take the old piece in and have the signmaker drill as well.
 
Buy a fresh sheet of polycarbonate from eBay the size you need. A tube of UHU glue and try and find a friend with a vibrating multi tool or buy one . Mark out your cut lines by scribing with a sharp point and then cover with masking tape. Cut with the vibrator using a metal straight edge to get a clean cut, remove the tape and glue together with the UHU. You will need clamp the top to the sides to keep it steady while the glue cures overnight.
When drilling your fixing holes mark out where the holes need to be, then stick some masking tape over the marks. Then with a sharp point impress o small dent in the plastic, then drill the hole. That way you won't slip or skid and put a big scratch across the surface.
If you have doubts about dimensions and shapes mock up a trial with a bit of cardboard first.
 
I used to make guards for machines. In order for the drills not to grab and destroy the carbonate we'd have to touch the two leading edges on the drill bits on a grinder. Then the drills wouldn't cut until pressure was applied. And as soon as pressure was released the cutting would stop.

Best of luck

Burnham Bob said:
My beta engine control panel is fairly basic - key, lights and stop button. However it is mounted vertically, recessed and covered with a thin perspex lid that hinges up and down - great for keeping the rain out and yet being able to see the warning lights. Getting on the boat with the lid half way opened I trod on it and cracked it. I have the old piece to use as a template but was always under the impression that perspex chips and shatters if you aren't careful cutting ad drilling it.

Tools I have are limited - hacksaw, junior hacksaw, black and decker workmate, old metal work files and a set of needle files. I do have a decent cordless dril though. If I can get a bit of perspex should I have a go or try to glue the old bit back together?
Click to expand...
 
I have recently been making wheelhouse windows from 6mm Acrylic and 6mm polycarbonate and as previous posters have said (without really spelling it out) these materials are very different to work. Polycarbonate is not remotely brittle and nice to cut and drills well as long as drills are not brand new ie the initial newness is worn off. My Acrylic was quite brittle (tried to break off cuts-very easy) and I had to be carefull not to crack it when cutting and drilling. Also the acylic seemed to melt at a lower temperature. I used an Exact Saw for cutting which was very good and I achieved a straighter cut than with a jigsaw or a handsaw (again practiced on off cuts). For a cover that gets a fair bit of handling and may get kicked or knocked I would go for Poycarbonate every time as the higher cost is negligable on a small cover.
 
I've been using some polycarbonate for bits and piece lately. Works nicely with router or drill; jigsaw can be a problem as the cut gets hot and welds itself up again behind the blade.

Pete
 
prv said:
jigsaw can be a problem as the cut gets hot and welds itself up again behind the blade.
Click to expand...

You can get jigsaw blades for cutting plastic which avoid that problem. They have zero set on the teeth and leave a surprisingly clean cut edge. Mine were made by Bosch. I've used them on Perspex. I assume they would be just as good for Polycarbonate.
 
A low angle block plane will handplane a roughly sawn edge, or just use various grades of sandpaper on a wooden block.

For drilling, drill a tiny ( say 2mm) hole thru the material first, into a wooden supporting base bit..then use a 45deg countersink on the reverse face, this will keep the hole 'clean' when you break through with the larger, correct sized drill bit for the hinge fastenings .
 
Blueboatman said:
A low angle block plane will handplane a roughly sawn edge, or just use various grades of sandpaper on a wooden block..
Click to expand...

you can get a high gloss polished finish on the edge by finishing with a 1200 grade paper and lightly playing a gas blowtorch over the edge until it melts leaving a gloss edge.
 
Dead easy.....All good comments. To drill acrylic use a spur drill. This is a flat bottomed twist drill with a small pilot point on it joiners use them for drilling dowel holes. Drill from both sides of the acrylic half way through each side. The reason for this is you will not splinter the plastic when the drill breaks through. A standard twist drill will splinter it. Cut the plastic with hacksaw or coping saw. There are four stages to polishing the edges of acrylic.
Shape the plastic by cross filing the edges.
Draw file the edges.
Wet and dry the edges, keep paper wet with water.
Finally polish edges with metal polish (Brasso) then use dry cloth to shine.
Stand back and admire your work.
 
I only ever use hand tools on perspex. It cuts extremely easily with a hand saw at a 45 degree angle. I clean the edge with a file with the handle removed and laid along the work. Takes seconds. You can buff the edge with a polishing mop on a grinder but I don't bother as I'd rather see the edge. You'll find the new cover invisible enough as it is!

I like the idea of a blunt drill. Got a lot of those.
 
When drilling Perspex put two bits of tape over the place you want the holes, that stops the drill slipping. Go very slowly with drill and the saw otherwise you will melt the Perspex, I used a junior hacksaw that has smaller teeth than a big hacksaw. You might have to lightly sand the edges if there is any burring. If you do those things it's an easy DIY job, it's what I did for a vertical Perspex cover for the control panel.
 
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