john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
It would certainly be easier if you set your own lines up first. Otherwise it gets complicated - possible, but complicated.
How do you moor a boat on a trot?
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Babylon
Well-Known Member
That depends on what's already there and its condition (ie my own trot mooring came with everything already set up: pickup line and buoy and two new pairs of mooring lines for my boat length with soft eyes already spliced).
If you just have the pickup line (what condition and any pickup buoy?) and are in a tidal river, you could probably choose a day with little sidewind and initially pick up the working buoy first, then set up temporary mooring lines to both fore and aft buoys, so that the boat is in position for you to set up permanent lines and renew any old stuff. You'll probably need to use your dinghy as well to get close enough to the buoys to work on them.
However, if the mooring buoys don't have eyes on top (ie so that you need to shackle your own lines on the riser chain underneath) and/or there are other concerns about the condition of any existing gear, you'll probably be best off going out in a tender first to deal with all this without your boat being in the way.
Be aware also, that if there is a significant tidal range, the distance between the buoys might be more 'rigid' at high water than at other times (depends on the height of your risers), and you need to allow for this in determining the length of you pickup line and mooring lines.
Lady Campanula
N/A
This is the 'bible' of best practices.....
This is one of the problems one seeks to prevent...
A boat's mooring ropes chafing-through is the other major problem, and the cause of the most insurance claims. It is also the cause of the most rejected claims.....
The specified Safe Working Load of a mooring rope is rarely a limiting factor. The capacity of a boat rope to accommodate significant chafe during a gale and still have enough left to do the job is what's needed. That means using the thickest boat rope one's fairleads and mooring cleats/bits will accommodate - and also fitting anti-chafe tubing.
The top pro mooring contractors have virtually zero moorings failures. The 'third division' have lots..... each year, in the same estuary. Insurers are beginning to insist on better practices.
Expect a feature article on this topic in PBO magazine, soon.
This is one of the problems one seeks to prevent...
A boat's mooring ropes chafing-through is the other major problem, and the cause of the most insurance claims. It is also the cause of the most rejected claims.....
The specified Safe Working Load of a mooring rope is rarely a limiting factor. The capacity of a boat rope to accommodate significant chafe during a gale and still have enough left to do the job is what's needed. That means using the thickest boat rope one's fairleads and mooring cleats/bits will accommodate - and also fitting anti-chafe tubing.
The top pro mooring contractors have virtually zero moorings failures. The 'third division' have lots..... each year, in the same estuary. Insurers are beginning to insist on better practices.
Expect a feature article on this topic in PBO magazine, soon.
doug748
Well-Known Member
You see all sorts and it all works, provided you avoid chafe.
The line between the buoys is a perpetual pain because if you leave it slack you will find it loose, and verca vice. It mucks up your topsides. Split the line, with a knot you can undo, so you can get off either side - particularly usful if you have and outboard, hence a dodgy reverse. You also then have the option of making it off onboard, if you prefer. You have to rejoin it before you set off, of course.
The line between the buoys is a perpetual pain because if you leave it slack you will find it loose, and verca vice. It mucks up your topsides. Split the line, with a knot you can undo, so you can get off either side - particularly usful if you have and outboard, hence a dodgy reverse. You also then have the option of making it off onboard, if you prefer. You have to rejoin it before you set off, of course.
Searush
Well-Known Member
Good thread & useful, one small thought to add;
I find it useful to slip the marrying line over my guardrail when arriving or leaving. This holds the boat in place while I sort out the fore & aft strops. Probably won't work in strong tides, but very useful where I am as I am invariably single-handed when joining/ leaving the trot. I always leave the crew, luggage & passengers on the quayside to pick up later - saves a few dinghy trips & wet bums.
I find it useful to slip the marrying line over my guardrail when arriving or leaving. This holds the boat in place while I sort out the fore & aft strops. Probably won't work in strong tides, but very useful where I am as I am invariably single-handed when joining/ leaving the trot. I always leave the crew, luggage & passengers on the quayside to pick up later - saves a few dinghy trips & wet bums.
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
I wish.... twelve tonnes of boat and the only time that would work for me would be at slack water and no wind...
Another plea for all those on trot moorings to PLEASE NOT MAKE YOUR LINES TOO TIGHT. Its anti-social and makes it very difficult for other people in the trot to pick up their mooring. Measure your lines and make them the correct length for your trot.