How do I remove a boat trailer wheel nut?

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Windinherhair

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How do I remove a boat trailer wheel nut?
It hasn't seized on because it was removed only a few months ago, and hasn't been used since...kept in garage.
The nut goes on the spindle, and what looks like a washer on after that. The washer looks to be welded to the nut at two opposite ends. It seems this is locking it somehow.
I can email a photo to anyone who might be able to help.
Thanks
 
They might be "locking tabs" ? If the "welds" are like little ears, they prevent the nut turning. Bend them up till they are flat with the washer, and the nut should then turn as normal.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I can email a photo to anyone who might be able to help.


[/ QUOTE ] Puzzled by your description. Why not post a photo so that everyone can see it.

We are talking about the hub nut that retains the bearings?

But let me guess. It's a self locking nut (I forget the proper name for them ) the bearings are ball races not taper rollers and the nut is done up tight (there's a spacer between the bearings) so no pin is needed and the one on the LHS is probably left handed.

So it probably just unscrews but it'll be tight! If it is the one on the LHS then look very closely at the thread first.

If I am right you should raelly use a new nut on reassembly.
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
I don't think they are locking tabs. They are too solid, and not at all "bendable". They do seem to be welded onto the nut right enough (one piece)
I bought the trailer 2nd hand in autumn. Renovation has been slow due to the weather. There isn't room to work at it in the garage.
The wheel bearings needed replacing but I couldn't get the nuts off then. I removed the leaf suspension units with the wheels still attached, for ease of transporting to my brother. He used a blowtorch and a socket on a long lever. Eventually we gave up and my brother got a contact at a tractor service depot to do it for us. The wheels came back with the bearings replaced. Apparently there was some technique to removing that kind of locknut.
Unfortunately I have only now realised that one of the wheels has been put back on the wrong way around. When re-attached to the trailer, the valve and grease nipple will face to the inside, under the trailer.
I have tried contacting the tractor service people but that depot has closed down!
I am thinking about stopping by Kwik Fit or McConechy's tomorrow morning, and batting my eyelashes at the mechanics!!
 
before useing heat around tyre and brakes just try soaking overnjght with a spot easeing oil or a spot of deisel it might jus free it
 
Not this sort of thing then
ags2001_opt.jpg
They are what I was thinking of and have on my dinghy trailer

I wouldn't go within a million miles of Kwik fit
 
150335.jpg

It just a self locking nut!

Not the hub nut but the nut securing the axle to the spring. If both pictures are of the same one then its not left handed but then you would not expect it to be. Its quite large so it'll need a good long lever to undo it I suspect

But the wheel should come off the other end of the axle by undoing the bearing retaining nut as in my earlier post. ......... No ?
 
I suspect you may have to open up the slots with a wedge.

Nut is tightened up, then the two side , were the slots are, are hit with a hammer to deform them and lock the nut.

Brian
 
[ QUOTE ]
with the washer piece missing

[/ QUOTE ] Yes The locking ring has obviously been chopped off. The nut should not have been reused like that!

It still seems an incredibly strange design to me if you have to remove the axles from the springs in order to get the wheel off.

If it were mine I would prise the cap off the other side of the wheel and expect to find a nut, possibly a self locking nut or possibly a castellated nut and split pin. I'd expect to remove the pin, if fitted, followed by the nut (which all being nicely greased will come off relatively easily) and a thrust washer. I'd then be able to remove the wheel complete with bearings. The axle would remain on the spring and the spring on the trailer.

Why would I expect to do it like that .... because that's how the wheels come off my dinghy trailer, and how the hubs come off my camping trailer and my boat trailer and off all the cars I've owned!

What you are attempting to do will be an impossible task at the roadside if you get a puncture and have to change a wheel. (Or remove one to take to a tyre depot for repairs)
 
I agree with Vic - it just looks like a mechanical locknut with the locking bit cut off. I'd take it round to a garage and ask if one of the mechanics could have a go at it with an impact wrench.
 
Looking at the stub axle in the spring end I would start asking myself if this trailer is road legal. Is it a 4 wheel trailer. You don't seem to have brakes on that wheel so you can't use it for a Gross Trailer Weight of more than 750kg, unless there are more wheels that are braked. Or if 2 wheeled, is it going to be loaded to more than 750kg Gross Weight (including the trailer).
 
[ QUOTE ]
road legal.

[/ QUOTE ] Those wheel rims with integral bearings usually have ball races not tapered roller bearings and are only intended for light loads up to 250lbs capacity each (thats only 227kg per pair in new money) at a max speed of 50mph when fitted with 2 ply tyres inflated to 30psi

The same size wheels can take upto 600lbs each when fitted with 4ply tyres or 750lbs each with 8 ply tyres (At 65 and 90psi respectively) but are then normally detachable wheels on hubs with tapered roller bearings.

Basically no 2 wheeled trailer with these 8" wheels is going to be suitable for loads that require brakes anyway.

(Facts and figures from the old Indespension Trailer manual)
 
That's why I wondered if the other end of the spring has a matching pair of wheels.
Hunter Europa trailers had four of those weeny wheels, and I sometimes wonder if they are still legal for road use with that load.


Trailer1.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hunter Europa trailers

[/ QUOTE ] The current laws came into effect in 1982. But the reference I have from 1981 is that they were not expected to apply to existing trailers.

The Europa at 681kg would not have exceeded the 750kg gross rule by much anyway, if at all, but I note the one in the picture appears to have had brakes.

All trailers over 2cwt (102 kg) unladen constructed after 14 Jan. 1968 were required to be braked.
 
The trailer is for a 3.2 metre RIB. (photos in Dropshots)
I've taken more photos of the wheels to show the leaf suspension on either side (kind of wheelbarrow style), and also photos of the nut at the other side of the spindle.
There is also a photo of the whole trailer, taken by the previous owner. It's now in bits, in the process of being cleaned up and Hammerited.
This discussion and advice is most appreciated!
Thanks
http://www.dropshots.com/locknut
 
Ah thanks for the other pictures, now we can see the "whole picture" Not what I was expecting at all.

Just brute force aided by a soaking in WD40 or penetrating oil is going to be what's needed. A bit off heat will help but confine it to the nut. Some wet rags wrapped around the axle will help stop getting the bearing hot.

Really you should not reuse those self locking nuts but the difficulty you are having at the moment does not support that argument!

You are going to be well and truly stuffed if you get a puncture out on the road!
 
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