franb
New member
With the possible demise of up to 500,000 horse chestnut trees in the UK, due to pest, disease and drought would now be good time to start looking at boats made from this wood?
Horse Chestnut Wood
- Thread starter franb
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jon
New member
Unfortunately horse chestnut is soft and not durable, so not ideal for boat making . However, no reason why it could not be used for interior fittings.
Any one interested in a very special horse chestnut tree that we had to fell this year look here: http://www.sttudy.org.uk/Tree/chestnut.htm
We saved the best of the trunk for a future small furniture project, but the local sawmill gave up cutting it after hitting too many embedded nails etc.
Any one interested in a very special horse chestnut tree that we had to fell this year look here: http://www.sttudy.org.uk/Tree/chestnut.htm
We saved the best of the trunk for a future small furniture project, but the local sawmill gave up cutting it after hitting too many embedded nails etc.
Peterduck
New member
If it is soft and non-durable, the chances are that it would be dimensionally unstable too. That is, prone to excessive shrinkage, warping, cell collapse, and a dozen other maladies which befall newly-sawn timber. Sawmills here in Oz will only saw your log if you guarantee the replacement of the saws in writing. The cost of a 6ft diameter saw [and the mills use two] would make your eyes water, believe me! Many of them won't look at it at any price. The most likely sawyer will be someone with an Alaskan Mill, a bandsaw which runs on a plank or rails. However, they'll still want to know the provenance of the log. I was able to find a company in Melbourne who would reduce [the process of milling a log into planks is called 'reduction'] my Blackwood log for $250, and this yielded about $1500 worth of timber. Some of this was riddled with termite tunnels, some was flawed in other ways, but the was also some very lovely timber amongst it. During seasoning some split and some warped, but much of it stayed nice and flat. Because I was able to specify the dimensions of the sawn timber, I was able to get some nice, wide planks for a cabin table-top, some square - section for newel posts, and so on. I suppose that the moral of my tale is that there are a lot of stumbles on the road from log to table-top, and you don't get all of the log being usable, even in a high-quality furniture timber like Blackwood. Don't waste your time and money on any timber that isn't the very best.
Peter
Peter
chrisross
New member
Good good for making paling fences?
Peterduck
New member
I consulted a couple of references regarding the uses of wood in Australia. We have quite a few chestnut trees here, and it is easy to buy chestnuts when they are in season, as they are at the moment. However, I was unable to find any reference to the use of Chestnut timber. This suggests to me that its best use is possibly firewood.
Peter.
Peter.
jon
New member
Sweet chestnut for paling fences as durable !
franb
New member
Sweet chestnut is coppiced to make walkingsticks. This must make it OK to steam, fairly flexible, relatively unlikely to shatter - what else??
tazzle
New member
Coppiced in a 15 year rotation, it's fine for pit props.
franb
New member
I also notice that designer Iain Oughtred suggests it may be used for planking, a point reinforced by the esteemed magazine that runs this forum who report that Henwood and Dean have built a boat doing that very thing. Nice to see there are some open minds on this forum.
GavBTS
New member
Chestnut - two different trees
This thread has become a little confusing - Horse Chestnut and Sweet Chestnut are two very different trees - not even related to each other. Horse Chestnut has poor timber with very limited use. It is very light when seasoned, but also soft, weak and will rot quickly if allowed to get damp. Sweet (or Spanish) Chestnut on the other hand is a very good wood sharing many of the same qualities as oak. It has a long history in the UK of being used for fencing, cladding, furniture and so-on. I suspect it has also been used for boat work as it is as durable as oak, but much more stable - I would think it would be good for decking or planking. Anyone know of a boat with Chestnut used in such a way? It would be quirte cheap as well.
This thread has become a little confusing - Horse Chestnut and Sweet Chestnut are two very different trees - not even related to each other. Horse Chestnut has poor timber with very limited use. It is very light when seasoned, but also soft, weak and will rot quickly if allowed to get damp. Sweet (or Spanish) Chestnut on the other hand is a very good wood sharing many of the same qualities as oak. It has a long history in the UK of being used for fencing, cladding, furniture and so-on. I suspect it has also been used for boat work as it is as durable as oak, but much more stable - I would think it would be good for decking or planking. Anyone know of a boat with Chestnut used in such a way? It would be quirte cheap as well.
121
New member
Sweet Chestnut has as much if not more tanin in it than Oak (also smells beautiful when sawn), has far less figuring than Oak (in fact is rather dull in terms of character) and also dulls tools probably quicker than oak as well, though I have found the grain usually predicable. My father made a chest of drawers for me out of it when I was 8 and 40 years on looks as good as the day it was made after a 2/3 of a lifetime's abuse. Traditionally it was used for heavy traffic floorboards (many pub floors are sweet chestnut) a testament to its durability.
I haven't steamed any but would have thought it was a good candidate, due to its highly stringy nature; come to think of it are the curved backs (not the staves) of "Wheel-back" and "Windsor" chairs Sweet Chestnut?
Horse Chestnut on the other hand is utter c*** and doesn't even burn well...
I haven't steamed any but would have thought it was a good candidate, due to its highly stringy nature; come to think of it are the curved backs (not the staves) of "Wheel-back" and "Windsor" chairs Sweet Chestnut?
Horse Chestnut on the other hand is utter c*** and doesn't even burn well...
sarabande
Well-known member
Sweet Chestnut is traditionally used for rafters and beams in Spain.
In the UK, there is a Horse Chestnut/ American Chestnut hybrid (pink candles, not white) which was much in vogue for Victorian country house parks.
Apart from a distressing tendency for branches to fall without warning, the tree is very susceptible to borers, and is really **** to burn, turning to ash and producing little intrinsic heat. Looks pretty in spring for about a couple of weeks though, and seems to attract bees.
In the UK, there is a Horse Chestnut/ American Chestnut hybrid (pink candles, not white) which was much in vogue for Victorian country house parks.
Apart from a distressing tendency for branches to fall without warning, the tree is very susceptible to borers, and is really **** to burn, turning to ash and producing little intrinsic heat. Looks pretty in spring for about a couple of weeks though, and seems to attract bees.
Simon_and_Tanja
Member
Whilst we are drifting ... I feel the need to seek views on good burning native (or semi-native) woods. We've large fireplaces and are constantly on the lookout for fallen firewood.
Willow would seem like a good candidate - bits fall off the local trees all the time but I haven't tried any yet, I suspect it would spit something awful?
Beech is OK but you need some coal to keep it going if you do not have a proper flue.
We got a supply of logs last year which I was told was blackthorn - although the girth of the logs made me doubt this. It was very very heavy, an absolute nightmare to chop and burnt like asbestos! As I sat in front of our winter fire with a supply of poor quality non-inflamable coal and this flameproof wood I started to wonder about it's possible marine uses. If it was blackthorn could it be used for rubbing bands, deadwoods, etc? I believe it, like greenheart, is toxic?
Willow would seem like a good candidate - bits fall off the local trees all the time but I haven't tried any yet, I suspect it would spit something awful?
Beech is OK but you need some coal to keep it going if you do not have a proper flue.
We got a supply of logs last year which I was told was blackthorn - although the girth of the logs made me doubt this. It was very very heavy, an absolute nightmare to chop and burnt like asbestos! As I sat in front of our winter fire with a supply of poor quality non-inflamable coal and this flameproof wood I started to wonder about it's possible marine uses. If it was blackthorn could it be used for rubbing bands, deadwoods, etc? I believe it, like greenheart, is toxic?
sarabande
Well-known member
willow is awful; it goes directly to grey ash.
If you are burning on an open fireplace it's probably only about 20% efficient, so negates the purpose of wood fuel.
If you buy a proper wood burning stove, then efficiency rises to about 80%, and you can leave magical stews and porage to simmer overnight.
Open fires are a b*gger to keep going: you need to build up about 3 inches deep of hot ash as a bed, then the wood can burn properly. Anything will burn on a decent base. Don't forget a spark guard, though.
If you have more than 15% water (approx) in the wood, it will spend a lot of energy driving off the water and that will lose energy delivered to the room and send water gas (acidic) into the chimney.
Get a woodburner with wide opening door if you want the scenic visual effect.
If you are burning on an open fireplace it's probably only about 20% efficient, so negates the purpose of wood fuel.
If you buy a proper wood burning stove, then efficiency rises to about 80%, and you can leave magical stews and porage to simmer overnight.
Open fires are a b*gger to keep going: you need to build up about 3 inches deep of hot ash as a bed, then the wood can burn properly. Anything will burn on a decent base. Don't forget a spark guard, though.
If you have more than 15% water (approx) in the wood, it will spend a lot of energy driving off the water and that will lose energy delivered to the room and send water gas (acidic) into the chimney.
Get a woodburner with wide opening door if you want the scenic visual effect.
Simon_and_Tanja
Member
True it is not about effeciency it is about show and effect. Our inglenook has a straight, mildly tapering chimney with a 4' x 2½' aperture at the bottom. 20% effeciency is way out of our league. However pile a couple of big logs on it and some coal and it will still throw out enough heat to toast the dog. We have a wood-burner in the room next door which we use for more sustainable heating. (and oil-fired central heating)
I wonder if those logs, that I was sold as blackthorn, were really hornbeam - I hear this is tough and heavy. Would this have any use in the marine world. A couple of the larger lumps I have left would make some beautiful grown knees if I could find a way to shape them. Anybody know if it is durable?
lesweeks
New member
Burning wood
OK, following the drift.....
I was always told that Ash is the best wood for burning - bright and hot. One or two sites will give you the old rhymes (always a good source of reliable info). Try this.....
Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year.
Chestnut's only good, they say,
If for long 'tis laid away.
But Ash new or Ash old
Is fit for a queen with crown of gold.
Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last.
It is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E ' en the very flames are cold.
But Ash green or Ash brown
Is fit for a queen with golden crown.
Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke.
Apple wood will scent your room
With an incense like perfume.
Oaken logs, if dry and old.
Keep away the winter's cold.
But Ash wet or Ash dry
A king shall warm his slippers by.
OK, following the drift.....
I was always told that Ash is the best wood for burning - bright and hot. One or two sites will give you the old rhymes (always a good source of reliable info). Try this.....
Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year.
Chestnut's only good, they say,
If for long 'tis laid away.
But Ash new or Ash old
Is fit for a queen with crown of gold.
Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last.
It is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E ' en the very flames are cold.
But Ash green or Ash brown
Is fit for a queen with golden crown.
Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke.
Apple wood will scent your room
With an incense like perfume.
Oaken logs, if dry and old.
Keep away the winter's cold.
But Ash wet or Ash dry
A king shall warm his slippers by.
121
New member
Some of my experience burning wood (and I burn between 6 & 8 tons a year in both a woodburner and 10' x 5' inglenook):
Oak - can burn "cold" if not tinder dry, otherwise pretty damned good (and the smoke smells fantastic) - will spit a lot when first laid on the fire.
Apple - burns very hot, just fantastic in all respects if dry
Ash - good to get a fire going, is one of the few woods that will burn green (though it will tar your flue if you do so for prolonged periods); moderately hot.
Beech - One of the best, burns very hot and lasts well.
Sweet Chestnut - spits violently if not tinder dry, otherwise burns hot & well.
Horse Chestnut - well.......
Hawthorn - burns very hot and lasts forever, but sacrilegious to do so!
Willow - can be OK if larger lumps are burnt (small ones just disappear up the chimney) - very acrid smoke; burnt several species but never much spitting.
Hornbeam - one of the few woods in my experience consumes more energy to burn than it releases.
Scots Pine - one of the hotter and longer lasting soft woods but very tarry for the flue.
Lime - OK but not much heat to it.
Alder - supposed to one of the woods used for charcoal and apparently quite high calorific value (therefore hot) but no experience.
Elder - useless, don't burn in the house unless you want a death in the family...so they say!
Holly - hot and lasts but must be dry.
Lebanon Cedar - (yes I really did burn a tree...) wonderful smelling smoke and worth burning just for that but otherwise not much heat & doesn't last.
Birch -moderately hot but doesn’t last long
Sycamore - big lumps OK but quite "ashy", last moderately well.
Hazel - hot & lasts well.
Can't think of any more for the time being...
Oak - can burn "cold" if not tinder dry, otherwise pretty damned good (and the smoke smells fantastic) - will spit a lot when first laid on the fire.
Apple - burns very hot, just fantastic in all respects if dry
Ash - good to get a fire going, is one of the few woods that will burn green (though it will tar your flue if you do so for prolonged periods); moderately hot.
Beech - One of the best, burns very hot and lasts well.
Sweet Chestnut - spits violently if not tinder dry, otherwise burns hot & well.
Horse Chestnut - well.......
Hawthorn - burns very hot and lasts forever, but sacrilegious to do so!
Willow - can be OK if larger lumps are burnt (small ones just disappear up the chimney) - very acrid smoke; burnt several species but never much spitting.
Hornbeam - one of the few woods in my experience consumes more energy to burn than it releases.
Scots Pine - one of the hotter and longer lasting soft woods but very tarry for the flue.
Lime - OK but not much heat to it.
Alder - supposed to one of the woods used for charcoal and apparently quite high calorific value (therefore hot) but no experience.
Elder - useless, don't burn in the house unless you want a death in the family...so they say!
Holly - hot and lasts but must be dry.
Lebanon Cedar - (yes I really did burn a tree...) wonderful smelling smoke and worth burning just for that but otherwise not much heat & doesn't last.
Birch -moderately hot but doesn’t last long
Sycamore - big lumps OK but quite "ashy", last moderately well.
Hazel - hot & lasts well.
Can't think of any more for the time being...
oldfrank
New member
Horse chestnut makes very pretty floorboards for houses. I read with interest the comment from downunder on the costs and risk involved with turning logs into planks. Try a woodmiser - which is basically a horizontal bandsaw mounted on two bolted-down tracks. Large circular saws are an improvement on the amount of timber lost to sawdust than if a chainsaw had been used ... but the bandsaw on a woodmiser only loses around 2mm of wood. Replacement blades seem much cheaper too at around a tenner.
Oh; there's a large, industrial bag of oak in the garage for our fires - only the bits that weren't quite good enough for the boat of course. Little gets wasted, even the bits that have been replaced get cut up for the fire. OF
Oh; there's a large, industrial bag of oak in the garage for our fires - only the bits that weren't quite good enough for the boat of course. Little gets wasted, even the bits that have been replaced get cut up for the fire. OF
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monkey_trousers
Member
blimey where do you start!
I put a new cockpit floor in a small open fishing boat about 10 years ago using chestnut - its still going strong despite the neglect and amount of fishy detrious etc that gets kicked around it. The boat is open to the weather all winter on its mooring too
on the pyromaniacal front, defo a big up for ash in any shape of form, wet or dry.
kept our rayburn going nicely all winter on a blend of larch and oak courtesy of Pansy
everything that was pulled out/off was thrown across the table saw and fed to the stove
I must have burnt everything going over the years, from the obvious to the heinous
oak's a good slow burner to keep a stove in over night
any dry pines/spruces if you want fast hot heat, **** when green though
don't mind sycamore if dried.
apple & cherry make lovely looking fires, and throw a lot of heat out (and smell nice too)
Elm burns really well, slow and hot but not much left these days though
Walnut (still don't believe as a callow youth I failed to see the potential of anything other than firewood) burns slow and hot
Willow is ok but burns too quickly
Poplar despite being used to make matches is pretty pants in big lumps on a stove
I put a new cockpit floor in a small open fishing boat about 10 years ago using chestnut - its still going strong despite the neglect and amount of fishy detrious etc that gets kicked around it. The boat is open to the weather all winter on its mooring too
on the pyromaniacal front, defo a big up for ash in any shape of form, wet or dry.
kept our rayburn going nicely all winter on a blend of larch and oak courtesy of Pansy
everything that was pulled out/off was thrown across the table saw and fed to the stove
I must have burnt everything going over the years, from the obvious to the heinous
oak's a good slow burner to keep a stove in over night
any dry pines/spruces if you want fast hot heat, **** when green though
don't mind sycamore if dried.
apple & cherry make lovely looking fires, and throw a lot of heat out (and smell nice too)
Elm burns really well, slow and hot but not much left these days though
Walnut (still don't believe as a callow youth I failed to see the potential of anything other than firewood) burns slow and hot
Willow is ok but burns too quickly
Poplar despite being used to make matches is pretty pants in big lumps on a stove
Lakesailor
New member
Beech is a great burner, but must be well seasoned.
Oak is rubbish if it gets a bit punky (soft in the dark outer parts) but great otherwise.
Birch is mad hot, but as a fallen timber it rots in a moment, if it's hung up it should be OK
Yew is a lovely waxy wood which burns with a yellow candle flame as long as it's seasoned for at least a year. But please don't fell a yew just for burning.
Ash is a great burner, but i've found it can be too seasoned, better when younger.
Alder is a waste of effort.
Sycamore is pretty rubbish unless you've got the fire going like a furnace.
What is that wood that goes bright orange in the heart when you cut it?
Oak is rubbish if it gets a bit punky (soft in the dark outer parts) but great otherwise.
Birch is mad hot, but as a fallen timber it rots in a moment, if it's hung up it should be OK
Yew is a lovely waxy wood which burns with a yellow candle flame as long as it's seasoned for at least a year. But please don't fell a yew just for burning.
Ash is a great burner, but i've found it can be too seasoned, better when younger.
Alder is a waste of effort.
Sycamore is pretty rubbish unless you've got the fire going like a furnace.
What is that wood that goes bright orange in the heart when you cut it?
