Homemade Wasi anchor

30boat

30boat

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Perhaps some of you will remember my earlier post on my homemade Wasi anchor.
It's finaly been tested and I'm happy to report that it worked a treat.I tested it on a friends motorsailor that has a 40hp engine.The bottom was hard mud.
It dug imediately without any signs of dragging and it was like hitting a wall.At full revs astern the chain was bar tight and I'm glad it had a tripping line otherwise I wouldn't have been able to lift it out.
My next step will be a stainless steel one.
I'll be glad to send pictures and dimensions to anybobody interested.
 
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don't forget the 'patent' chaps,

[/ QUOTE ]

Very interesting..

About the "patent".. I believe I'm quite well informed on this subject.. :0)

I've never heard about a "patent" covering the "Bügel" (Wasi) anchor.. as the whole concept of this anchor has already been published for a very long time ago..
 
Re: Beware of \"ROLL BAR\" anchors

We can observe now, coming on the market, a handful of « new anchors » featuring a « roll bar » at the back part of the fluke..

This design is not new !.. already patented by Peter BRUCE more than 30 years ago, and popularized by the German “Bügel” anchor.. (Bügel in German means “roll bar”).

In addition to the “Bügel”, the new comers in the market are
- The "S" anchor in U.K.
- The “M-S”
- The “R”... both in NZ..

An soon some others!.. who find more easy to copy existing products than spending time and money to design new improved designs.. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

BUT? did you ask yourself, the reason of this CUMBERSOME APPENDAGE??

- One clear explanation is found in one of the web page of one of these manufacturers:

“The roll-bar serves one main purpose: it ensures the anchor will adopt the correct setting attitude, which is loosely described as being on its side with the complete anchor weight supported between the skids, the end of the shank, and the tip of the blade.
As well as ensuring that the anchor will always achieve the correct orientation, the roll-bar means that the toe does not need to be weighted with extra lead or cast iron.”

But the main reason is not clearly explained:
- all these “new” anchors are “BADLY BALANCED” /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif which means that, as there is not enough weight on the anchor tip (or toe) and much too much weight on the back portion of the blade, they absolutely need a “roll bar” to adopt the correct setting attitude..

On the opposite of the previous statement, the anchor tip NEED to be weighted, as weight on the tip is one of the two criteria to ensure a good penetration. (the second one, is the right penetrating angle)

As there is not enough weight on the tip (about only 16% of the total anchor weight) and too much weight on the back part of the blade (or fluke), the only way to achieve the correct orientation is to use a “roll bar”.. but, if this appendage will solve this question, it also add some more weight, again at the worse place, at the back part of the blade.. and not on the toe of the anchor!.. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Peaceful anchoring..

Alain
 
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