Homemade Mast Steps

Aluminium rivets? If so are they strong enough and will the steel cores rust and make stains?

Hi Norman, I have been assured that Aluminium rivets are the right call and plenty strong enough. The steel cores have been on my mind and I certainly didn't think about staining. These particular rivets have left a fairly deep hole at the break off point. I was considering plugging them with butyl tape or similar. Any suggestions?

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. Maybe I'm a similar age but I can't get my leg up as high as I used to; what dims did you go for between the steps?
 
Thanks Dave. Maybe I'm a similar age but I can't get my leg up as high as I used to; what dims did you go for between the steps?

Hi Spuddy, I went for 500mm, most people seem to opt for a little less at around 400mm. For some reason my legs seem to still bend OK and 500mm was no problem at all, though you wouldn't want much more.

Dave
 
Dave, If there is no staining I suggest you leave well alone. Do not be tempted to punch them through as they will drop down inside the mast and remain at the bottom where they will rust and a rust stain will spread out from the mast foot. I know this because there was a rust stain on my boat, and when the mast was lifted out for a re-rig there was a rusty steel screw in among the mud at the base of the mast. The mud was an accumulation of the fine Sahara sand that comes down with the rain the Southern Turkey.
 
Dave, If there is no staining I suggest you leave well alone. Do not be tempted to punch them through as they will drop down inside the mast and remain at the bottom where they will rust and a rust stain will spread out from the mast foot. I know this because there was a rust stain on my boat, and when the mast was lifted out for a re-rig there was a rusty steel screw in among the mud at the base of the mast. The mud was an accumulation of the fine Sahara sand that comes down with the rain the Southern Turkey.

Thanks Norman, I explained myself badly, Wasn't planning to punch the steel pin through for all the reasons you mention. The steel pin on these rivets broke fairly deep leaving a 5mm or so blind hole. It was this hole I was considering plugging with butyl.

What do you think?
 
May I offer one reservation?

The design proposed is a "foot trapper". Each year, when we visit SBS (don't do Excel anymore) we hear horror stories. The worst one concerned an elderly gentleman who utilised such steps but unfortunately lost his grip and fell backwards. (He patently wasn't properly secured as he should have been).

As he fell, his feet became trapped in the aperture between the steps and the supporting hoops. He hung upside down until his ankles gave way and he hit the deck.

For this reason, bottom supported steps are advocated (not by my - I use a different device:rolleyes:) but they need an upstand to prevent your foot sliding off. Perhaps an aperture sufficiently large that feet cannot be trapped would be better.
 
May I offer one reservation?

The design proposed is a "foot trapper". Each year, when we visit SBS (don't do Excel anymore) we hear horror stories. The worst one concerned an elderly gentleman who utilised such steps but unfortunately lost his grip and fell backwards. (He patently wasn't properly secured as he should have been).

As he fell, his feet became trapped in the aperture between the steps and the supporting hoops. He hung upside down until his ankles gave way and he hit the deck.

For this reason, bottom supported steps are advocated (not by my - I use a different device:rolleyes:) but they need an upstand to prevent your foot sliding off. Perhaps an aperture sufficiently large that feet cannot be trapped would be better.

Wow, that is a horror story. Thanks for the warning. I would always use a grigri or a climbing ascender pulled tight, all the way up. This should at least stop you inverting.

Thanks for the sobering warning.

Dave
 
Thanks Norman, I explained myself badly, Wasn't planning to punch the steel pin through for all the reasons you mention. The steel pin on these rivets broke fairly deep leaving a 5mm or so blind hole. It was this hole I was considering plugging with butyl.

What do you think?

It certainly won't do any harm, but getting it right in to the deep but small diameter hole won't be easy, and a superficial blob of butyl will soon come off. Perhaps you could inject the butyl if you get one of those syringes that come with inkjet refill kits. I would be tempted to try that, but perhaps instead of butyl mix some two part adhesive like araldite, syringe that in and promptly cover with masking tape to stop it flowing out before setting. You would need to do the whole lot before the adhesive began to set in the syringe. JB Weld is my favourite epoxy adhesive as it is less runny than araldite.
 
It certainly won't do any harm, but getting it right in to the deep but small diameter hole won't be easy, and a superficial blob of butyl will soon come off. Perhaps you could inject the butyl if you get one of those syringes that come with inkjet refill kits. I would be tempted to try that, but perhaps instead of butyl mix some two part adhesive like araldite, syringe that in and promptly cover with masking tape to stop it flowing out before setting. You would need to do the whole lot before the adhesive began to set in the syringe. JB Weld is my favourite epoxy adhesive as it is less runny than araldite.

Thanks Norman, very helpful...
 
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