HOLE DRILLING

[Cowie]

I have a hole to drill through the bow of the boat where a line will be pass through just above the water line, looking for best option to seal the inside of the hole, The hole size will be approx 12mm, The line passing through is 6mm held in a static position so won't be running back and forth,

 

[C08]

I am interested in what this hole is for?

 

[Cowie]

Its for the Asometric spinnaker pole, brace just above the waterline to the end of the pole when its extended

 

[Poignard]

I would seal the exposed GRP with epoxy resin.

But if the line does not move through the hole, why have a hole at all? Why not use a ring bolt or a pad eye,?

 

[Cowie]

I would seal the exposed GRP with epoxy resin.

But if the line does not move through the hole, why have a hole at all? Why not use a ring bolt or a pad eye,?

Good shout ??

 

[William_H]

I have a simple saddle mounted on the bow of my little boat just above the water line. 8mm bolts go right through the very thick GRP at the bow. I use this saddle to attach a hook for the primary mooring line for swing mooring. So this would be a far better arrangement for a brace for extending pole. Less water drag when plunging in to waves also. ol'will

 

[Neeves]

Pad eye, as above. This will allow you to have a decent backing plate inside and you could have a flange welded to the pad eye shaped to fit the stem that could further secure the pad eye (you would bolt from the inside and the pay eye would tighten against the flange - you could seal the flange (as well as the shank of the pad eye) with Sika, or other, to ensure water tight.

Any conventional drill bit, of the appropriate size, will suffice - your problem is your drill. Drilling at or near the water line with an electric drill is a recipe for an accident - better completed on the. hard.

I'm not sure why you would drill a 12mm hole for a 6mm (anything).


It might be more advantageous if you post a picture of the yacht and pole. I suspect you really need a purchase system (the rope will stretch) and a pad eye will allow you to add a block and tackle on the bow. Take from the water line to a block on the pole end and then to the bow where you can tension by whatever means you like (and you will need a decent cleat.).

We have, roughly, what I describe on our cat - two pad eyes, one on each bow (with big backing plates). We tension the pole using the halyard. Others use dyneema for each bob stay on a purchase system - brought back to clutches on the bow. There are quite a few options.

Jonathan

 

[penfold]

It might be more advantageous if you post a picture of the yacht and pole. I suspect you really need a purchase system (the rope will stretch) and a pad eye will allow you to add a block and tackle on the bow. Take from the water line to a block on the pole end and then to the bow where you can tension by whatever means you like (and you will need a decent cleat.).

Surely the telescoping of the pole will deal with the tension(presumably this telescoping is via a tackle)?

 

[Neeves]

Surely the telescoping of the pole will deal with the tension(presumably this telescoping is via a tackle)?

If it extends with a block and tackle yes - if its simply pulled apart then the bob stay will stretch, even if its just the dyneema 'bedding in'. Not enough information to be definitive - in fact not enough information to be definitive anyway. Maybe the OP will fill out the detail.

The OP needs to think of what sort of pad eye - if we had a decent image of the stem we would offer suggestions.

If I have added too much info, my loss


Its not entirely relevant, in fact very obtusely relevant but this is worth considering - not as a source of pad eyes (these are high tensile steel - so will start corroding on installation) but the forces involved.

Sustainability is Not Just About The Environment !

Its all about the angles (now where have I heard that before?) - if the pad eye were a simple bolt type with a ring on the end. Its the first sentence under the picture of the bent eye bolt that is the key. I don't make these things up!

So if its a simple bolt type pad eye - it needs to be installed in line with the tension or be oversized.

If anyone checks Yoke's website they do make some nice shackles - which I have for testing, along with some other components (not yet completed). I suspect that Yoke are not common in Europe - though I vaguely recall Hackett ? might be distributors. They do have an office in the US, sell in Oz - but I have found best dealt with direct.

Jonathan

 

[thinwater]

Its for the Asometric spinnaker pole, brace just above the waterline to the end of the pole when its extended

It will be moving some. The pole will bend from side to side. The line will also stretch during the first few dozen uses, as the splices and braid bed in. I assume the idea is to anchor the line to a chain plate further in.

 

[Little Dorrit]

I would seal the exposed GRP with epoxy resin...

+1
Don't forget the masking tape to stop the gelcoat from cracking and I usually start holes in gelcoat with the bit rotating anticlockwise

 

[NormanS]

What material is the boat made from? Wood, steel, aluminium, GRP etc? With many, but not all materials, it would be simple to install a tube right through, sealed to the hull at each end.

 

[Neeves]

If you follow through with your original idea of a line, I was assuming rope (but maybe you meant stainless) then note Thins comment that the prodder/bowsprit will bend from side to side. It is unlikely that any sealant will survive long if the line is constant moving (up and down and side to side, pressure on the prodder from both seas and wind. You might need to consider chafe where the rope exits the hole (on the seawater side).

For this reason a pad eye would be a better option.

Jonathan