high charge air temp volvo?

hori

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would a cracked exhaust bellows cause high charge air temp volvo D9? My engine seems to de rate itself to 1380 rpm. This is the second time it happened. No alarms comes up flashing just wont go past 1380 rpm. I did have a volvo tech on board before when this happened and he said there was code for high inlet temp and he cleared on his laptop and all seemed ok. I did notice a cracked bellows on my exhaust close to turbo and did a temp wrap fix until I can get it replaced. I had no warning alarms flashing on my evic display. I was steaming for 2 hrs at 1800 rpm slowed down to start fishing, and when i went to accelerate it would only go 1380. all temps and press normal, no smoke from engine, no weird noises, all seems normal except its de-rated. any thoughts?
 
There is a pressure and temperature sensor in the inlet manifold. If everything was OK and then suddenly not OK as you describe I would be looking at the sensor and its associated wires. If you have 2 engines you could swap the sensors over and see if the fault moves with the sensor.

I do not think a crack in the exhaust system is going to cause hotter air coming out of the charge air cooler into the engine.
 
would a cracked exhaust bellows cause high charge air temp volvo D9? My engine seems to de rate itself to 1380 rpm. This is the second time it happened. No alarms comes up flashing just wont go past 1380 rpm. I did have a volvo tech on board before when this happened and he said there was code for high inlet temp and he cleared on his laptop and all seemed ok. I did notice a cracked bellows on my exhaust close to turbo and did a temp wrap fix until I can get it replaced. I had no warning alarms flashing on my evic display. I was steaming for 2 hrs at 1800 rpm slowed down to start fishing, and when i went to accelerate it would only go 1380. all temps and press normal, no smoke from engine, no weird noises, all seems normal except its de-rated. any thoughts?

As the intercooler is salt water cooled I’d be looking at cleaning it out , they do get a build up of limescale inside , check the heat exchanger too.
 
ok, it never threw an alarm code warning on my evic I am just assuming that what it is again. Kinda frustrating as I paid alot $ for tech to come after hours couple weeks ago and he figured it was a stored code that de rated it. I did replace the boost sensor with new but that made no difference at the time. I will go through my evic panel and check for codes today. You would think it would come up with the triangle warning on my 4" screen if it was gonna de-rate engine
 
As the intercooler is salt water cooled I’d be looking at cleaning it out , they do get a build up of limescale inside , check the heat exchanger too.

Got 3 on my bench now, heavily fouled with build-up. Volvos and Yanmars.
Rydlime and a bit of elbow-grease needed.
 
Inlet temp needs to be within range because if not when more heats added during combustion the exhaust gas temp will be elevated .This elevation of EGT is additional heat mainly to the exhaust valves and the “ exhaust bellows “ = the crack you see .

Turbo charging as it compresses the air heats the air ( as well as makes it more dense) ,the charge air cooler ( CAC ) takes as much heat as it’s designed out so when the now cooler dense air enters the cylinder .This reduction in temp by the CAC is important to ensure after it’s exploded it does not get dangerously hot ,

There should be sensors to tell the ECU to protect it if the inlet temp risers above a safe level and “ de rate “ the engine to what ever rpm Volvo have preprogrammed until the faulty GAC is cleaned .
1400 rpm sounds about right ,without knowing the specifics about the D9 , iam talking general principles here it’s trying to stop the turbo to spool up , as spooling up the turbo is gonna add more heat to dangerous levels
Or it’s just lowered boost if it’s spools up slightly lower say 1200 rpm to the keep the CAC temp within range to have the knock on effect of keeping the EGT ,s with range ,

There’s two sides to clean inside the CAC , again talking general principles- the seawater side salts up and the airside can oil foul up , a dirty film of oil gathers on the airside fines which adds a layer of insulation to the fins sos reducing the temp gradient.This oil mist is from a crank or rocker box breather .I don,t know the D 9 plumbing artitecture or it’s breather filtration or it’s turbo lubrications , a fault in one or more of those could lead to a oil mist mucking up the airside fins .

As the engineers above have said the CAC ( and there sensors ) need a look at .
It’s just as easy to take them off and clean them down - both sides air and water ,
Ridlyme or other acid type cleaners will reduce the salt caked on the water side , that may help .

Your engineer with his laptop hopefully with a fully with a updated Volvo tool would be able to see if there was a sensor error .
Again. Don,t know the specifics of the D9 how much info Volvo allow the operators/ owners to access and what info is dealer - laptop only ,

Now the faults returned the next step is to inspect the CAC , they normally have a lid or top you can take off to have a look .

When were the CAC and while I,am asking the main seawatwr cooler SWC last stripped down ?

And regarding the potential oil mist ( not sure from the details given thus far ) -
Last oil and filter change ? When ?
Type of oil ? and filter brand ?
What boats are theses D9 ,s In - thinking how close to the” edge “ re Hp / Kg,s to shove around .
The oil mist might be a red herring depending on how Volvo manage the crank / top end fumes , need more input from the VP engineers .

On MAN engines with MMDS circa 2001 onwards we have a “sensor error” functionality on a screen .
So for example you accidentally pull off a oil pressure sensor plug or a the CAC temp sensor , it’s tells us but crucially it differentiates a sensor error from a true reading outside a parameter and allows normal rpm .
In reality you locate the sensor and see there’s been a wire / plug pull and reconnect or buy a new sensor if it gone .

We only get a restricted rpm if they detect something outside the range that’s gonna be harmful and it tells us in plane English ,no codes or flashing lights ( your preprogrammed language) .No need for a lap top of special engineer .

Therse about 16 deltas all in all inc CAC temp , EGT and even sea water inlet pressure so you can check on the impeller, see its doing its stuff . That’s a nice touch so if there’s an impeller problem you don,t have to wait for a overheat .

I don,t know why Volvo in this day and age don,t let the owners access this kind of data ?

For example the CAC temp shows you the state of the CAC , you can see the temp of the air before it goes into the cylinder and monitor it , get a feel for when they are ready for a strip down .
EGT extremely usefull to prevent overloads .
Sorry for the slight thread drift but I do feel sorry for Volvo owners , Volvo soon want you to get them involved with there specialist diagnostic equipment.
 
Sensors are the bane of electronic engines.

Many issues I have faced over the years were the sensors and not a real issue.

Personally I would locate the sensors and swap them with the other engine and see what happens. Sensor change is usually ( there are always exceptions! ) pretty simple.

Diagnostics are not perfect, that say a value has tripped not why, but they do give you a place to start looking.
 
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