Help identifying calorifier please

SAWDOC

SAWDOC

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My new to me boat has a calorifier which looks like a minature foam covered copper hot water cylinder about a quarter size of the domestic model but otherwise very similar. I need to replace the cylinder and would appreciate if anyone could identifdy a supplier of this type of calorifier. My googling brings up lots of the other cylindrical stainless models.

Thanks
 
SAWDOC said:
My new to me boat has a calorifier which looks like a minature foam covered copper hot water cylinder about a quarter size of the domestic model but otherwise very similar. I need to replace the cylinder and would appreciate if anyone could identifdy a supplier of this type of calorifier. My googling brings up lots of the other cylindrical stainless models.

Thanks
Click to expand...
These http://www.indelmarineusa.com/waterheaters.htm
 
None of the above - it really does look like a domestic hot water cylinder encased in foam. I have googled ASAP but it is a very popular acronym - is there a link to their site please?
 
Hi Sawdoc, is it copper, lie horizontal, with one domed end covered in yellow foam with no finish on it, all the connections at one end. If so while common, it is obsolete, I think the blue Surecal one is the current equivalent. Any calorifier is simply a cylinder with an inlet, outlet and a heat exchanging circuit so your only criteria should be size and quality. I would recommend avoiding the Isotemp shiny stainless steel cased Italian ones, they are made from thin steel joined with rubber gaskets. On your boat you may wish to consider replacing the plumbing pipework when you are at it, the old black plastic pushfit stuff gets brittle with age as do the flexible pipes. The heat exchanger pipes may be ok if they have already been replaced you will know when you take them off if they are dozed.
I have black heat resisting pipes to the engine, similar to the other engine water system pipes double clipped at each end. The domestic hot water pipes are the blue heat resisting thick walled drinking water quality flexible hose, the cold are just flexible polythene all 15mm. int. dia. I would prefer to use a rigid pipe for the cold supply but flexible is better for routing, easy to connect and faster to install though bilge cavities etc.
If you are fitting a new calorifier think about how you will need to drain it for winter, you may not want to just run it off into the bilge but a diverter tee to which a short hose to below the level of the cylinder can be attached makes it easy.
 
SAWDOC said:
My new to me boat has a calorifier which looks like a minature foam covered copper hot water cylinder about a quarter size of the domestic model but otherwise very similar. I need to replace the cylinder and would appreciate if anyone could identifdy a supplier of this type of calorifier. My googling brings up lots of the other cylindrical stainless models.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You aren't giving us much clue. Most makes of calorifier are foam covered and look like minature domestic models. However, nowadays only a few are copper (how can you tell, if its foam covered?). One popular type that is, is C-Warm which I think is linked to Cleghorn Waring. Check yours against their products illustrated HERE. Older models are not necessarily pale blue.
 
Thanks for the informative replies - I am on a steep learning curve with calorifiers, not having had such luxuries on my previous boat.

I suspect Quandary is right - that the particular model on my boat is no longer marketed. It is in an enclosed space difficult to photograph - I wil attempt to do so tomorrow. As an interim measure I assume i can joine the entry and exit pipes from the calorifier and simply btass the defective cylinder in order to run the engine as normal?
 
SAWDOC said:
Thanks for the informative replies - I am on a steep learning curve with calorifiers, not having had such luxuries on my previous boat.

I suspect Quandary is right - that the particular model on my boat is no longer marketed. It is in an enclosed space difficult to photograph - I wil attempt to do so tomorrow. As an interim measure I assume i can joine the entry and exit pipes from the calorifier and simply btass the defective cylinder in order to run the engine as normal?
Click to expand...

I assume i can join the entry and exit pipes from the calorifier and simply bypass the defective cylinder in order to run the engine as normal?

Yes
 
Last edited:
Update

Hi Folks,

Courtesy of an old label stuck in a folder, the model type turns out to be Cleghorn Waring - now marketed as C warm calorifiers 4 gallon vertical model.
I am now weighing up replacing this with the 20 litre model now sold or switching brands in line with Quandary's recommendation and going for a surecal model 22 ltre horizontal type. The locker dimensions seem generous enough to accomodate both options.
From what I can see on the online graphics, neither model comes with a bottom of cylinder drain valve. With the non return valve on the cold water inlet, what is the most hassle free way of draining one's tank when laying up for winter? The setup i have inherited sees the calorifier warming a number of radiators on board, one of which has suffered frost damage. I do not see any valve or tee piece on the pipe runs which could be used to drain the system off. I am inclined towards a tee piece insert with a short piece of hose and a stop valve which could be diverted into a suitable waste container, so as to avoid coolant being pumped through the bilge pumps.

Thought I could dispense with all this hot water/ cabin heating nonsense until I discussed the matter with Mrs Sawdoc who pointed out the error of my ways......
 
SAWDOC said:
Hi Folks,

With the non return valve on the cold water inlet, what is the most hassle free way of draining one's tank when laying up for winter?
Click to expand...
Manually depress the pressure relief valve and pour out. (Or you could unscrew the pressure relief valve altogether).

If you also drain down your engine, don't forget to empty the heating coil in the calorifier - simplest by detaching the lower pipe connecting it to the engine. (Depending on your setup, this may be the most convenient point to drain down your engine. Don't forget to open your water filler cap to allow air in at the same time).
 
anyone know how to disassemble these fittings ?

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