Hello! Newbie alert....

DukeII

DukeII

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Sorry if this is the wrong place to be asking this, but we're somewhat new to the boating world and I don't know if our boat falls into the catagory of 'classic' (it's probably too new & plasticy) or 'motor boats' (it's probably too old & bathtub-like), but we are moored on the Thames so I'm afraid I'll be boring you lot with some basic questions if that's OK?

We have a Seamaster 27 which we bought 18 months ago and it's an ongoing project to get it back to it's former glory...it's not in bad shape really, but it's had several years of bad 'maintenance' done on it and we're having to start from scratch in a few areas.

My other half has stripped around 10 layers of cruddy paint off the deck ready for some filling and painting, but we are a little unsure of the correct type of fillers / paint to use.

International deck paint seems to come hightly recommended, is this the way to go?

Also there appears to be several different types of GRP fillers, does anyone have any recommendations for hull / deck hole filling?


Many thanks in advance!


Emma
 
Hi Emma, and welcome to the Thames forum.

I think you will find the Classic Boats forum is more aimed at wooden boats, but you are in the right place for Thames cruisers!

I am sure an expert will come along with a definative answer, but I have been pleased with International paints and varnishes. Read the labels carefully though, since some of their varnishes are not for outdoors use.

I cannot remember the make of the last filler I used... may have been "Plastic Padding".

Paul
 
Hi Emma, welcome.

What Ramage really meant but was clearly too polite to say was that sooner or later some old fart will drop by, park up his zimmer, and pontificate eruditely but incomprehensibly on the art of boat-bodging from his experience over the last century or so.

I'm not in that category but for what it's worth:

In my opinion the Seamaster 27 was a classic well made grp cruiser that has stood the test of time. I've never had one, I had the competition's boat - the Elysian 27, somewhat beamier and equally tough. Anyway, if that is your starter boat they are a fine boat.

Filling: get damaged area well sanded down for a key, fill with P.38 or any other 2-pack filler. You can get those from car accessory shops like Halfords or decorating merchants like brewers, Travis Perkins etc. Some sand a little easier than others.

Because the filler is semi-porous, paint out to prime it with a couple of coats of polyurethane paint after sanding down.

For deck paint you can use what they used before, it has a fine pumice-like grit in it, flakes off and requires doing often which is why you've got so many coats to remove. It builds up pretty quickly too. My advice is to order some Bradite polyurethane 2-pack from Brewers, it's a fraction of the price of similar products from boatyards with names like Blakes, International etc but it is very well formulated. Get some thinners too as it is 85% solids and goes a long way. Then take yourself off to Travis Perkins and get a bag kiln dried sand, or, as you only want a kilo or so scrounge some from somewhere and dry it on a baking tray in the oven.

Paint your decks a couple of coats first, then mask up the non-slip areas you want, mix sand with some paint and dab on thickly. When it has set you can then apply a couple of coats of gloss over it for a perfect long-lasting non-slip deck. You'll need to stir often as the sand settles out quickly, I advice against thinning the paint used for this too much, just keep the stick in the pot, a quick stir, charge brush and dab on, not brush on or you'll get lines, it's a stipple effect.

Seemples!

2-pack sets regardless of what you do with it so only mix what you will use, clean brushes thoroughly. The sand brush should be kept separate and only used for that part as you'll never clean it properly of sand.
 
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Further advice: avoid telling a supplier it is for a boat.. the price goes up!

DIY & car places like Halfords are good for much stuff.

For inside things like lights etc a Caravan dealer is best, eg Tam Leisure in New Malden Surrey.

There are some good parts deals on e-bay too. If in doubt ask on here.
 
A bit of detail on your Seamaster 27 from 25 Years of Motor Cruisers.
published by MBM.IBSN D-7136-3459-6


SEAMASTER27.jpg
 
Thanks for the warm welcome and advice!

I'm sure we can't be the first numpties on here (and hopefully not the last!). So there's a couple more questions I'm afraid...

Do you use the same sort of filler below the waterline as above? And if so is it good practice to 'seal' the filler in the hull before painting / antifouling over the top?

We've had a survey recently and (as expected) there are a few blisters on the hull which the OH has burst and cleaned out. Fortunately the general condition was reported to be 'good for it's age' (like the OH ;-), but the boat may change that!) so we're going to forge on with the work and hopefully get it back in the water before the awesome tropical summer arrives (??)

The only other area we need to seriously look at is the front deck, over time this has become a bit trampoline-like and it looks like we've got to pull all the front bedroom apart and reinforce it from below. Having had a peek within it seems to be a single skin of GRP with a few strengthening beams & a bit of wood glassed in where the front cleat (?) mounts, any ideas what is the best to use for strength as space is limited in here (wood, alloy angle, cardboard tubes?) I think the OH has a bit of glass fibre experience (from repairing old motorcycle fairings!) so he's up for having a go, but we are not sure what to stick up there that will give the best strength without being too heavy.

Here is a few pics of the old girl BTW:

boat1.jpg


boat2.jpg


Toodle pip.

Emma
 
I wouldn't use the filler below waterline, if it was dry - unlikely as moisture can travel a long way up the fibres, but assuming you can get it reasonably dry, I'd probably use West Systems epoxy on it, google them, they do all the manuals for free download. Then polyurethane to finish off perhaps but generally primer and a/foul.

Boat looks tidy though, clean and good condition.
 
Well, it was Suzy Wong, but I guarantee it won't be that when it goes back in again...:eek:


Why, do you recognise it?

We'd like to find out some history on it as it doesn't have the original brass registration number plaque (or whatever it's called) any more. I've been told by the seamaster owners club that sometime this number is pencilled on the bottom of the kitchen drawers etc, but we haven't found anything yet.

Cheers,

Emma
 
The picture in the marina looks like G pontoon at Bray.. I think the boat opposite is called Odin and I think I can see my old Birchwood 25 ("Carli") over to the right of the picture. (She was moored on G13).
 
Seamaster Info

Emma,
Welcome to the forum, your question has provided plenty of response. You might like to consider looking at the Seamaster Club website. They also offer plenty of help and support. Might even be worth your while joining the Seamaster Club as you can save a fair amount of money with the discount the club has organised with various suppliers. Look forward to seeing you on the Thames this year.
 
Springy fore deck

Agree with above about joining Seamaster Club.
Before you start ripping the underside of your fore deck apart, talk to others in SC. It may be normal.
It does happen on Freemans but that is because the foam layer between outer and inner deck mouldings decays, usually from water ingress around deck fittings. This can be rectified by judicious drilling, drying and injecting with resin and/ or foam. I am no expert on the technique.
 
Emma you didnt say that money was a particular problem so my advice would be to use products from reputable names which are designed to do the job. I am not sure that 'sand' on deck is entirely the way to go with due respect to the advice previously given.

I still see myself as a newcomer (10 years) but one thing I can tell you is that for every question you ask there can be at least 10 different answers ... and there will be other people saying ... "you dont wanna do that ... do this instead ".

I think the best advice is to join a club, talk to people, dont rush into any repairs ... talk to people who have done the sort of repairs that you face and use your common sense with respect to things that you think you can do .. and those which you may not be able to handle ..... even something like painting ... some people are dead handy with a brush and can create good result ... other people just dont have the wrist and leave a million brush marks ... (unless you are OK with brushmarks on your boat) !!

I've seen people on here recommend International Marine paint .... and I've seen people recommend Wickes Gloss .....

And do take a look at the online advice about doing glass fibre and gel coat repairs .. they can be very useful (there are some on youtube if I remember correctly).... kind regards .
 
ms1 said:
cut:.......Emma, you didn't say that money was a particular problem so my advice would be to use products from reputable names which are designed to do the job. I am not sure that 'sand' on deck is entirely the way to go with due respect to the advice previously given..........
Click to expand...

Sand was around long before deck-paint my friend, deck-paint was marketed I suspect because your average boat-owner could no longer be bothered to undertake the work to do it properly. However, mixed in with the paint it is long lasting, far far longer than deck-paint, and the only downside is the yellowing of the paint if white paint is used, due to the colour of the sand. This is easily solved by a couple of extra thin coats of paint (no sand) applied with a roller after it has set. On a warm day setting can be as little as 2 hours although not full cure of course.

After five years I freshened mine with a thin coat of top coat as constant traffic by people with unsuitable footwear had worn the paint off some of the "points" of the sand. Unlike deck-paint, you absolutely cannot slip on it irrespective of weather or conditions.

On the subject of "brand" names BTW, I've had failures with Epifanes, Blakes and International so I recommended an alternative that is a fraction of the cost but as effective. Coincidently, I am told that "Bradite" is also used by many plant and machinery manufacturers to spray plant, oil rigs, ships etc so it is well suited and formulated for tough and exacting conditions.
 
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Ooo-er...what have I started here!!! Calm down fellas!

I fully understand that if you ask on 3 forums you will get 30 different answers. The other half is very handy at DIY and is a mechanic by trade (I, on the other hand, am pretty good at bacon butties and making tea - although I didn't do a bad job of the curtains, after about 3 attempts :rolleyes:). All I am trying to avoid is having to go through all this stress again in 1 or 2 years if we make a **** job of 'doing her up' with schoolboy errors this time round!

We joined up with the Seamasater Club almost straight away, but I haven't been in touch with them regarding the deck yet. You're right, they probably know more about this specific design, so I'll definately put the question to them and see if they have any 'strengthening' advice. It's only a single skin of GRP up front as opposed to the sandwich contruction that seems more common (and harder wearing?) on modern stuff.

Thanks again,


Emma
 
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Strengthening a deck underside needs the area where you intend to bond battens to be cleaned of all paint, a dusty job although paint stripper can be used you'll need to get THAT off thoroughly. You simply divide the area into the bay sizes you want and well rough up a 15cm, 150mm, 6inch band centred on each batten position. Then wedge up battens and glass them in with strips of 2 ounce chopped strand mat and resin. One the strips have set remove the props and complete the glassing in. You're lucky you don't have a newer boat, many of them are almost see through!

You can buy resin, hardener and mat at Bridge Marine, Walton Bridge. They used to have a moulding shop, still have the material but no longer do moulding. I bought some before Christmas. You do need a clean container for resin, and a jam jar for hardener, and a bin liner for the CSM. You'll also need a 5 litre clean ol can for a gallon of acetone to clean things with.
 
Well, we have about 6" space (front to back) between the existing strengthening crossbeams, but only 25mm 'depth' floor to ceiling before the bedroom 'ceiling' needs to go back in (this butts up to the trim around the front windows, so we can't really afford to lower the bedroom ceiling). The other half is looking at using a right angled piece of wooden batten, about 20mm deep (gluing this in place with no more nails or similar) to make a triangular section piece & then glassing it in. Sound any good (or should we use plain balsa?). Not sure if I expained that well enough or not...

Thanks for the info on Bridge Marine, I know the place you are referring to so we may well take a drive down at the weekend and see what they've got. We have a fairly long shopping list at the moment!

Cheers,


Emma
 
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