Heater ducting insulation

Flossdog

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Fired up my new Eber yesterday but was a bit disappointed with the heat output. Mind you it was 1.5 deg outside and as the duction goes through lockers, behind panels etc., I thought it might help if I could insulate the ducting. However, the proper MaxiTherm "sleeves" are a bit pricey. What do other forumites do?
 
Far as I'm concerned, any heat that stays in the hull is good. So I don't worry about the uninsulated ducts in under-bunk lockers etc. In theory I should probably insulate the short length in the cockpit locker, but that's at the end of a very long list.

Pete
 
I've tried a few things.

I bought some felt pipe wrap (about 2-3" wide) from Wickes, that was quite good but didn't go far when trying to cover a long length of 4-6 inch ducting.

I also bought some foil backed bubble wrap (it's got a special name but can't remember what it's called) supposed to be better than 4" of polysytrene. Yeah right. It was OK but no better than ordinary bubble wrap really. Then I realised I had loads of spare bubble wrap in the garage, so I cut it into strips about 4" wide and 1.5m long and used that. When wrapped around 2-3 thicknesses it's excellent, certainly as good as the foil backed stuff, and (to me) very cheap. Also lightweight.

So I now have a variety of different materials lagging my heater ducting, however it has improved the outlet temperature and warm up time considerably.
Just wish I could get to those inaccessible areas behind the heads...
 
Just checked the Thermawrap and they say it is for use from -20 to +70 deg C. Does anyone know how hot the ducting of an Eber gets? I would have thought it was about this, maybe a bit more?
 
Within about 500mm of the heater unit it's better to use the felt stuff. Thereafter the thermawrap, or ordinary bubble wrap is fine.
As I said above, my experience is that ordinary bubble wrap is much cheaper and just as good as thermawrap.
 
I used felt wrap (2 layers) for the first 1 metre. I then covered (from 500mm from the unit) with 2 layers of Thermawrap. I must say that the amount of heat coming from the ducts is vastly improved with a corresponding reduction in the time it takes to heat the interior of the vessel.
In addition to this, I stripped the aft cabin and relined with 4mm closed cell camping mat & Veltrim lining, as an 'experiment' with a few to lining the saloon and the fore cabin also. The results are a vast transformation in heat retention and comfort with the added bonus of greater noise dampening. The fore cabin and saloon will definitely be getting the same treatment.
I am presuming (hoping?) that the insulation will also be a benefit on warmer days and will insulate the interior from the exterior heat - though, as I am based in Peterhead at present, this is merely theoretical !!!
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x-10m-Fle...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item230ee0b9b1

cant remember if this was the ebay shop I used, but I got some stuff like this off ebay. The stuff I got said it was good to 100 degrees c. had a few seasons use with no probs. the outer wall is stone cold to the touch so it must insulate well. its good because it can just rest against the hull with no risk of heat damage.
my D1lc is mounted under the cockpit with the hot air pumped out in the middle cabin. I also have about 2metres of ducting to take the inlet air from the aft of the cabin so it recirculates the heating air. total ducting run is about 8metres. the D1lc heats my 32 foot motorsailer nice and toasty even in this weather. I think the re-circ hot air works well because it warms up quickly yet still has a drying effect becuase the warm air eventually works its way outside through the deck vents which I have complete control over.
 
Just done mine with loft lagging + a layer of metallic bubble wrap. Total cost £60. I took the trouble to get at those difficult lengths behind panels etc. and did the lot. Whereas before the output was warm at best, I can no longer put my hand in front of the outlets for very long and the heat is amazing. Allow for a ducting temperature of up to 150degC and do not wrap the first bit unwrapped. No more melted fenders for me either in the lazarette! Happy days!
 
Fired up my new Eber yesterday but was a bit disappointed with the heat output.

Just wondering if you are recirculating the heated air, or drawing in fresh intake air from outside? The later is sometimes preferred because it introduces fresh 'dry' air, but in present temperatures a normal sized heater will never cope in this mode. (Yesterday morning my 1.8kW eber had the cabin of my Sadler29 up to 18C in about 45minutes with an outside air temp around 2C, recirculated air).
 
Just checked the Thermawrap and they say it is for use from -20 to +70 deg C. Does anyone know how hot the ducting of an Eber gets? I would have thought it was about this, maybe a bit more?

The official Webasto line is that any material used in the transmission or insulation of hot air distribution should be capable of withstanding prolonged use at 130c and I can't see Ebers being any less. One thing I can say unequivocally is that it works to a material level, if you can be bothered measure the air temperature with and without for confirmation. It is worth leaving four inches or so bare in lockers containing clothing and the like as it helps keep the damp out.
 
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