38mess
Well-known member
My Perkins heat exchanger filler cap holder is corroded around the base, it looks like it's rusted through in one place. The inside brass? Iooks ok. Any ideas how to repair this? No leaks so far
Heat exchanger
- Thread starter 38mess
- Start date
NormanS
Well-known member
A few years ago, I had a similar problem. I sourced a new neck which had a flange with holes for two set screws. Cut off the old neck with a dolly grinder, ground as flat a face as I could, drilled and tapped holes to fit the flange - job done.
38mess
Well-known member
How did you achieve a good seal?
Never Grumble
Well-known member
Permatex ... I think I have a similar issue to you albeit perhaps not quite so bad. I was going to wire bush and then try to use this to seal it. fingers crossed it lasts for a few years.
38mess
Well-known member
I think I will try miliput, seems to be heat resistant and I have it in my workshop
NormanS
Well-known member
As said, using dolly grinder, file, and straight edge, made a good face for the flange to mate with. Some suitable jointing, and it's been fine ever since.
peteK
Well-known member
I have the Perkins M20 and think the original was epoxied in place,JB weld is what I would use if had to replace it.
shortjohnsilver
Active member
Had a very similar problem on my VP 2040 (Perkins) where the entire neck and cap assembly corroded, leaked and eventually detached.
As per NormanS cleaned up the heat exchanger casing thoroughly, and then sought out a new neck and cap. Spoke with a friendly engineer welder who welded the cap neck to a brass collar that had been pre drilled at five points. Drilled and tapped the exchanger casing using the collar to site it correctly and then bolted the collar, neck down onto the heat exchanger casing, seating down onto a heat resistant gasket seal. That’s it. Done. Did this about five years ago and it’s probably more solid and robust than it had been when manufactured.
As per NormanS cleaned up the heat exchanger casing thoroughly, and then sought out a new neck and cap. Spoke with a friendly engineer welder who welded the cap neck to a brass collar that had been pre drilled at five points. Drilled and tapped the exchanger casing using the collar to site it correctly and then bolted the collar, neck down onto the heat exchanger casing, seating down onto a heat resistant gasket seal. That’s it. Done. Did this about five years ago and it’s probably more solid and robust than it had been when manufactured.
NormanS
Well-known member
The replacement "neck" that I fitted, was an alloy casting, made with a two hole flange. I'm sorry, but I now have no idea where it came from. It may have been as a result of something mentioned on this forum.