Heat exchanger and Oil cooler advice

[volvopaul]

Here is the worst case I have seen , the first time we worked on this boat and we collected and it over heated, surpringly?

The old anodes were loose in the cooler flow .

Like Volvo Paul we need a one stop definite fix, first time, without any collateral damage.

Say what you like if you cock up on a job you put it down to experience, if we or Volvo Paul do that we have to do many jobs to pay it off.
We will continue to use Rydlyme .

Oh Bandit I forgot to say I have just stripped and cleaned all the coolers on a certain Fairline 36 Sedan , I loved the floor arrangement you modified , it made the job a real peach unlike the in modded versions , the motors are really good now .
They’we beyond a flush in fact I don’t think they would have flushed to be honest .
I also had the please of freeing off the port stop solenoid which the main dealer across the river , no names mentioned just wanted to fit a new one .

 

[BruceK]

Right to make things easier - I have 2 ideas in mind.
1 get rydlyme delivered on Tuesday there is a place in Sheffield not far from me 5ltr for £50 and clean the heat exchanger myself.
2 call the local heat exchanger specialist and get them to clean it any problems irs on their head.
And I know which one is swaying me
Jon

Jon, you've got this far. The arguments for and against have completed. Whats the difference if you descale or the pro descales at this point? If you follow the instructions to the letter you'll be fine. You ballsed up last time because you put the whole unit into a bucket despite being told it's a bad idea. If you're not comfortable with mixing concentrations take it to the specialist, if you are comfortable with mixing concentrations do it your self.
Dont leave any descaler in any longer than necessary, When the effervescent bubbles stop, rinse, rod. The object is not to have shiny brass-work but a clean passage.

Rydlyme does have a inhibitor in it. Note it is an inhibiter not a preventer. I will bore you with graphs as to how much it inhibits, suffice it to say dilute your mix and you will achieve the same results. Lets leave it there.

 

[Bandit]

Oh Bandit I forgot to say I have just stripped and cleaned all the coolers on a certain Fairline 36 Sedan , I loved the floor arrangement you modified , it made the job a real peach unlike the in modded versions , the motors are really good now .
They’we beyond a flush in fact I don’t think they would have flushed to be honest .
I also had the please of freeing off the port stop solenoid which the main dealer across the river , no names mentioned just wanted to fit a new one .

I saw her about 3 years ago at RK's yard, took me back. I have 63p's in current boat also, good units, new turbos and exhaust manifold last year also cleaned out inlet manifold.

 

[CLB]

So let me get this straight. If I use Rydlyme I can put the whole of the intercooler stack, aluminium fins and all, into a solution as long as I dilute it 50/50. Is that correct? Is that the right way to descale a Volvo intercooler stack once it is apart?

 

[BruceK]

So let me get this straight. If I use Rydlyme I can put the whole of the intercooler stack, aluminium fins and all, into a solution as long as I dilute it 50/50. Is that correct? Is that the right way to descale a Volvo intercooler stack once it is apart?

No, absolutely no. I dont care who says yes, it's fundamentally a dumb idea

 

[CLB]

No, absolutely no. I dont care who says yes, it's fundamentally a dumb idea

I need to re-read this thread then, and pay better attention, cos I swear both VP and Farsco said they did that.

 

[CLB]

Hi Bruce , like Bandit I do this for a living, I’ve done endless 41/42/43/44/300 intercooler stacks in Rydelime , no problem with the fins at all , just a jet wash after and a blow with the airline to disperse the water .
As we know Brick cleaner is for cleaning bricks otherwise it would be a lot more expensive .
Your coolers look good and I hope you used Rydelime , if you didn’t you could certainly loose the integrity of the vessel when the solder breaks down .

Rydlyme Marine Descaler

says it’s ok with aluminium as long as it’s not at 100% and left for ages. got buffers too ?

I dropped my entire intercooler insert in a 50/50 mix Last year. Done so in error but all was fine. You’ve got to play to the lowest common denominator (I.e. numpties like me)

look Forward to the YouTube video ???

I think we all need the wind to drop so we can going boating rather than talk about bloody engine maintenance ???

Do these posts not confirm that the fins are OK with Rydlyme?

 

[jon and michie]

It will cost you if don't read it correctly

 

[CLB]

It will cost you if don't read it correctly

I get that, which is why I am asking. The posts I quoted above, I read as saying it is ok, that is why I seek clarification. Once you have stripped your intercooler, I don't see how you clean the tubes without the fins coming into contact with the solution.

 

[Mr Googler]

It was fine when I did that....left it in for 3 hours.

that said, if I was doing it again....I’d just fill the raw water side with Rydlyme, this year I reversed flushed which was easier still. No temp issues before, just preventative. My heat exchanger looked like this after (no before picture I’m afraid) Good enough for me!

 

[CLB]

It was fine when I did that....left it in for 3 hours.

that said, if I was doing it again....I’d just fill the raw water side with Rydlyme, this year I reversed flushed which was easier still. No temp issues before, just preventative. My heat exchanger looked like this after (no before picture I’m afraid) Good enough for me!
View attachment 85706

Farsco, I am specifically talking about the intercooler with the aluminium fins. I don't think there is a problem dunking a heat exchanger in Rydlyme, but I am trying to get to the bottom of the intercooler, and hopefully learning from the expensive mistakes made by others.

 

[Mr Googler]

i put my insert in Rydlyme for 3 hours and it was fine...... I wouldn’t do it that way again as there’s no real need to.

 

[CLB]

i put my insert in Rydlyme for 3 hours and it was fine...... I wouldn’t do it that way again as there’s no really need to.

Can you just add Rydlyme to the tube stack without getting it on the fins then? I can't think how, but then mine is not apart yet so I may be missing something.

 

[Mr Googler]

Easily. the bottom is flat apart from the drain point sticking out. Couple of blocks of wood either side and off you go....or reverse flush all the engine coolers in one go without removing anything.

 

[BruceK]

Can you just add Rydlyme to the tube stack without getting it on the fins then? I can't think how, but then mine is not apart yet so I may be missing something.

Stand it up like a bucket, pour the descaler in. It's not hard.

Why on earth you would want to descale fins is beyond me. They never see water and dont calcify. They do get grubby with soot and oil but I would be surprised if Rydlyme cleared that out. It might. If it does it has detergents in too but really all I do is connect a degreasing gun to the compressor and blow it clean. Nothing else required.

https://www.sip-group.com/images/ocw/1937_360_360.jpg

 

[CLB]

Stand it up like a bucket, pour the descaler in. It's not hard.

Why on earth you would want to descale fins is beyond me. They never see water and dont calcify. They do get grubby with soot and oil but I would be surprised if Rydlyme cleared that out. It might. If it does it has detergents in too but really all I do is connect a degreasing gun to the compressor and blow it clean. Nothing else required.

https://www.sip-group.com/images/ocw/1937_360_360.jpg

I don't want to descale the fins, I just want to ensure that I don't ruin them. I can't picture it as it is not in pieces yet, but I envisaged not being able to do one without the other. Im sure it will become clear when I have it in pieces.

 

[BruceK]

Here they are lying on their side. Stand them up and they become their own bucket

 

[Mr Googler]

 

[BruceK]

Can we have that in 3D please mate

 

[BruceK]