Heat exchanger and Oil cooler advice

[jon and michie]

Thank you BruceK - do you happen to have any pics of the charge air cooler (intercooler) and the steering hydraulic cooler and is there any advice you could give on removing and cleaning them

Jon

 

[BruceK]

I had a thread up for that about a month ago. Make sure you drain the raw water first before dismantling. Bung at bottom of casing. Hopefully you dont need to remove the casing like I did and have room simply to remove the top cover and slide out the core. This needs checking for not only good water flow but air flow too. As with everything replace the seals. 4 of.

Has anybody removed a KAD42/43 intercooler?


The cooler for steering fluids is located in-line with the raw water feed usually on the Stbd engine or at least the one with the steering pump on. Just past the starter motor.

 

[BruceK]

finger troubles

 

[jon and michie]

Thank you BruceK - Much appreciated for the help

 

[jon and michie]

As for space there's about 16" between the hatch and the engine and a little room either side of the engine to sneak into.

Jon

 

[BruceK]

Happy days. You could fit an elephant in there

 

[BruceK]

I cant lift my cores out, they're under the cockpit flooring. If I drop a tool into the bilge, it stays there until I strip the engine to the short block. I actually do practice tying spanners with string to a hard point so if they are dropped I dont lose them. So my bilge can only claim screw drivers sockets and a zillion nuts and washers

 

[jon and michie]

You could use a magnet on some string to recover lost tools
Jon

 

[BruceK]

Sadly not. I have a telescopic one fitted to something that looks like a old collapsible radio antenna thats good for fishing out nuts and washers if you can see them but that's it. Tools generally are not magnetic

 

[jon and michie]

Right does anyone have the part numbers for the heat exchanger, oil cooler and intecooler parts that I need ?

many thanks
jon

 

[BruceK]

Best look themselves up yourself at marinepartseurope.com

 

[BruceK]

My endeavours this year

The Rydlyme and Raw water cooling systems question.

 

[jon and michie]

Ok as an update.
I have removed the heat exchanger, oil cooler and after cooler - (Brucek fortunately it lifted out easily).
And now at home

Now without getting ahead of myself - can I use brick and mortar cleaner? Or am I better getting Rydlyme?
Only reason I am asking is I can get brick cleaner today without having to wait for rydlyme to come through the post latter half of this week.

Jon

 

[BruceK]

Brick cleaner is fine. I used Bostik Cementone which is milder and for "Removes stains and limescale from brickwork, concrete, paving and tiles. Also removes algae, dirt and grime. " rather than a concentrated acid. I used undiluted and left in for an hour. Rinse thoroughly.

Dont forget to replace your oil cooler o-rings and DONT make my mistake and use a dab of sealant. Clean the surface thoroughly. I got adventurous and ended up hydraulic=ing my o-rings out a couple years ago

 

[Seastoke]

First belts and super charger

Then air filter and SC manifold followed by coolant expansion tank

Then the hoses and drain the system. 2 bungs and hoses under the exchanger for draining, two hoses at back of strainer for raw water , 2 underneath and inside for coolant

Then take off front heat exchanger bracket and remove with a anti clockwise twist and lift to clear rear hose connectors.

Then pump out the bilge. Coolant always ends up in the blimmin bilge making a huge mess of everything

Don’t forget to have a big hammer ,to hand as in photo.

 

[BruceK]

Don’t forget to have a big hammer ,to hand as in photo.

My engines are gaddamn Tyrannosaurus Rex's. Ever tried to tame a Tyrannosaur with a whip and chair? No? Didn't thinks so. You need a big efoff hammer. When they dont want to play nice you point to the hammer and the fresh bump on their noggin. That's usually enough to make them let go your leg and play ball again. You got sissy D6's. You just have to look at them and they roll over and feign death.

 

[jon and michie]

Thanks for the replies and help.
I have brick cleaner at the ready.
Jon

 

[jon and michie]

Right here is some pictures of the oil cooler - it would appear to have slight oxidation to the machined face which I am thinking of placing something like vaseline to the faces to prevent air getting to tgem

 

[jon and michie]

Okay - I placed the after cooler in a bucket of brick cleaner and after about 10 mins I thought there was a fire with the smoke from the cleaner - lifted the exchanger out which was very warm and thoroughly rinsed and found a couple of the side fins disintegrated - placed on 2 bricks and with the plug in placed I poured the brick cleaner in and left it for a hour.
then I rinsed it out several times and then several times more.

I will be ordering o ring kits tomorrow - does the plug that screws in at the bottom require any sort of ptfe tape or does this just screw in as is ?

Oil cooler next to strip down.

Jon

 

[BruceK]

Right here is some pictures of the oil cooler - it would appear to have slight oxidation to the machined face which I am thinking of placing something like vaseline to the faces to prevent air getting to tgem

No pic

Jon if this is the mating face to the engine block put nothing at all on. You run the very real risk with any grease of hydraulic-ing the sealing o-rings right out of their recess with any sort of grease or sealant when reassembling. This will dump your oil. Note the deformation... been there done that