Headstock clamp bushings

Gixer

Gixer

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I need to get the bushing replaced in the rudder headstock, It’s the bushing with the bolt for the tiller. Does anyone know anybody in the southeast who could do this? I’m guessing I could go into a local metal fabrication place but would like somewhere recommended. Thanks
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Why do you need it replacing what is wrong with the current one, it looks OK to me but without seeing it its difficult to see the details
 
Sorry I didn’t explain it clearly.

That long bolt in the picture on the left hand side with two nuts on the end passes though what looks like a (bronze?) bushing on the ‘headstock’. This is worn and play is now excessive on the tiller. I want to see if the bushing can be replaced, not the whole unit.

Thanks
 
deleted original response
Missunderstood requirements
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the answer is to have the hole reemed to a neat round size. There is probably enough bronze bush still in place to allow this. Then a rod turned to fit. Then threads turned on each end of the correct size.
If there is not enough bronze then reem it out. Fit a new bit of bronze by heating the unit & press fitting a bronze tube. Drill & reem to the required diameter & supply & fit new rod with threaded ends.
Fairly easy engineering operation.
 
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I would see if I could push the bush out of the headstock so I could measure the o/d of the bush and the o/d of the bolt would give the inside diameter an the length an do a search the net for a replacement that can be pushed back in.

If the bush is too long, it can be cut off and if the I/d is smaller than the bolt the push can be drilled out to the required size.

A local engineering company could do the job for you or try Dinghyman of this parish
 
One way to solve the problem is to get the sleeve driledl out and bushed to suit the long bolt . How much playis there in the bush, You may be able to wrap shim material round the bolt until it fits the bush. Does the bolt rotate when you lift the tiller or does the tiller rotate about the bolt. The shim idea would work if the tiller moves around the bolt, you could make the bolt a tap fit in the bush then.
David MH
 
I could make and fit you a bushing, not down south but I've done plenty of work for people on here - as mentioned above and see site in my sig

Either a brass, bronze, or plastic bushing, may also be worth bushing the section where the long bolt goes through the tiller stainless section as well

Similar to the one below that we made, you can see the white bush which both guides the bolt and holds the stainless tiller attachment section away from the brass section so when you tighten it up it has no slack but can still move
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Do what Roger the Bodger says. You should be able to do it with a vice, an old bolt and a plugsocket or bit of tube. Easyjob.
In fact you may find that you can drill it out to the next size up. Looks to be plenty of meat on the bush. If it's imperial then a metric size may only be a smidgen bigger and vice versa. It will also have the advantage of tightening up on the oter piece that it is attached to.
 
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Laysula said:
Do what Roger the Bodger says. You should be able to do it with a vice, an old bolt and a plugsocket or bit of tube. Easyjob.
In fact you may find that you can drill it out to the next size up. Looks to be plenty of meat on the bush. If it's imperial then a metric size may only be a smidgen bigger and vice versa. It will also have the advantage of tightening up on the oter piece that it is attached to.
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That is a bodge all right. Plus drilling is not the way to finish it. It needs reeming properly, with a turned shaft, with a pre determined fitting tollerance. The shaft would have shoulders for the tiller bracket washers to get the correct clearance around the main fitting. Then nylon washers over the shaft would give the friction
 
I’m getting DinghyMan to do the job for me. I really don’t have the skills to do this properly, I’m a bodger 😂
 
Daydream believer said:
That is a bodge all right. Plus drilling is not the way to finish it. It needs reeming properly, with a turned shaft, with a pre determined fitting tollerance. The shaft would have shoulders for the tiller bracket washers to get the correct clearance around the main fitting. Then nylon washers over the shaft would give the friction
Click to expand...

Reaming is the best as it will give a smooth bore but drilling with a sharp High sped steel drill will also give a reasonable finish.

Nylon washers will tend to expand as water is absorbed and possable bind the tiller and make it stiff
 
Daydream believer said:
Drills do not drill to an accurate diameter.
You slacken the nylock nuts each end to suit stiffness. That is the idea of the washers. :rolleyes:
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What accuracy do my need in the hole for a tiller pivot.

You raised nylon washers I did not now you talk about nylock nuts.

The only reason you need a lifting tiller is that it gets in the way when down. My emergency tiller is removable and stored in is special location when not in use
 
rogerthebodger said:
What accuracy do my need in the hole for a tiller pivot.

You raised nylon washers I did not now you talk about nylock nuts.

The only reason you need a lifting tiller is that it gets in the way when down. My emergency tiller is removable and stored in is special location when not in use
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If your emergency tiller has worn that bolt as much as the OPs then you must have had a lot of F..k ups & emergencies. Better go home where it is safer. :cry:
 
Daydream believer said:
If your emergency tiller has worn that bolt as much as the OPs then you must have had a lot of F..k ups & emergencies. Better go home where it is safer. :cry:
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Its an emergency tiller not my primary steering which is twin wheel and hydraulic powered which I have been involved in designing for many years, so I have a good idea how to fit it up including all safety inspections.

The OP admits he does not have the skill, so i suggested to use Dinghyman so let's leave it there.

I do have the equipment to do the job but being several 1000's Km away I am too far away hence my recommendation
 
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