Headlinings

I don't think you need to lose any more than 10mm.
If the deck is cored you can screw ply to it, if not, epoxy thin battens to it with threaded inserts of some sort, to take mushroom allen screws.

I agree but was overpessimistic to try to sell the idea. I completely replaced the headlining in a Seawych many years ago, and do wish now I had gone down thw plywood panel route for the deckheads at least. Most deckheads are wellsuited to the plywood approach.
 
OK then.
Talk me through this please.
I feel (based on nothing more than instinct) that the curves to be dealt with are probably too severe to use ply as thin flexible ply may well break and thicker, stronger ply won't bend enough.
I have just had a brilliant flash of inspiration.
I have a guy coming to the boat tomorrow who happens to be a cabinet maker. He is the man to ask.
I have just had a second brilliant flash:
If I can do the job with panels of ply or plstic or whatever, I needn't spend any more time removing the old glue. I just need to remove the grotty old foam.

Please tell me that i haven't lost the plot.

Brendan
 
OK then.
Talk me through this please.
I feel (based on nothing more than instinct) that the curves to be dealt with are probably too severe to use ply as thin flexible ply may well break and thicker, stronger ply won't bend enough.
I have just had a brilliant flash of inspiration.
I have a guy coming to the boat tomorrow who happens to be a cabinet maker. He is the man to ask.
I have just had a second brilliant flash:
If I can do the job with panels of ply or plstic or whatever, I needn't spend any more time removing the old glue. I just need to remove the grotty old foam.

Please tell me that i haven't lost the plot.

Brendan

|No you haven't lost the plot, go to B&Q and buy some thin ordinary ply and experiment. If it works then get some decent ply and get on with the job.

Thin ply is cheap and also will make good templates for the expensive (relatively) stuff.
 
The ply idea worked for me when we replaced headlining on our old boat...
Have you tried removing the old glue with a heat gun & scraper?? Scrape just as you see the glue going black, this worked ok for me, albeit I didn't scrape everything away..
The thin ply worked fine, but we didn't have extreem curvatures, but wasn't 'boxy' either
 
Thanks Derek,
Just as a matter of interest, what do you think are the chances of being able to remove this glue, if having bodged it, it looks bad and I decide to bite the bullet and replace it?

Brendan

I've not tried it in earnest but it sets fairly hard and appears to come away fairly readily with a sharp tap to the junction between glue and GRP. I'm less sure how easily it will come off the vinyl without tearing.

Derek
 
The ply idea worked for me when we replaced headlining on our old boat...
Have you tried removing the old glue with a heat gun & scraper?? Scrape just as you see the glue going black, this worked ok for me, albeit I didn't scrape everything away..
The thin ply worked fine, but we didn't have extreem curvatures, but wasn't 'boxy' either

I concur - try with heat gun and scraper. Google "bendy ply" or "aircraft ply" - it will do severe and/or compound curves.

You don't need to remove the old glue if you line with thin ply.

p.s. electric heat gun is source of ignition so be extremely careful - gas off (etc) and boat is well ventilated - big fan pushing air out through open hatchways ideally. (A friend ignited builders foam fumes in a shed and ended up in hospital with severe burns. Don't use the heat gun with contact adhesive fumes around ..
 
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I had the cabiet maker on board this morning.
I think that he was willing to do the job but would not commit.
I will have the forepeak done and see how that works out.
Before ripping down the vinyl in the aft cabin and heads, I will try sticking it back and see how it works.
Watch this space !!!

Brendan
 
p.s. electric heat gun is source of ignition so be extremely careful - gas off (etc) and boat is well ventilated - big fan pushing air out through open hatchways ideally. (A friend ignited builders foam fumes in a shed and ended up in hospital with severe burns. Don't use the heat gun with contact adhesive fumes around ..

Yes, I didn't really think to say but we had everything open AND I stopped every 10mins or so for the same amount of time and done another job which was on deck..
 
Yes, I didn't really think to say but we had everything open AND I stopped every 10mins or so for the same amount of time and done another job which was on deck..

Very wise - boats must be the worst for containing fumes.

I added my ps as an afterthought recalling what happened to my pal. An intelligent bloke making a silly error than could catch anyone who's not thinking straight. He has just ejected a load of foam in a gap in the shed and thought he would "help" it cure with the hot air gun ... whooomp! He was air ambulanced to Derriford in Plymouth - lost a fair amount of skin on one arm, side of face and both eyebrows! :(
 
It may be a bit late in the day to mention this here, but I found this on another thread recently (sorry can't find it again to give credit now).


“I was on a mega yacht last month, and all of their headliner was attached by velcro stapled to wood strips epoxied to the overhead.

First you glue the wood strips to the hull. Then staple velcro to the wood strips. Attach the headliner to thin panels that have velcro on the back. Then put the velcro panels in place.

It worked great on a 120 foot megayacht.”


This seemed to me a prefect way of dealing with headlinings. It avoids the plywood ordeal. Velcro pads can be positioned in suitable places to hold up the lining where necessary for concave shaped ceilings. And it can be taken down easily to do any job underneath, eg sort out wiring etc.

I shall be doing it this way in a few weeks time.

Mike
 
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